you wouldn't have to do anything with the front end if you swap in a rear with the same gear ratio.

Look for a c8.25 out of a 96+ since they will be 29 spline and stronger than the earlier years. Your current d35c gears will NOT fit in a 8.25, so you'll need to gear that axle accordingly to match the front. You'll also need a driveshaft out of the truck you got the axle from, or one with he same axle/transmission as yours. Other than that it'll bolt right in.

Question though - what size tires are you running? It's very odd to hear of someone swapping gears only to move up one size - it doesn't make much sense. With bigger tires you should be running at least 4.10s if not 4.56s.

 

HEY Dro,
That's not the right hose. NAPA #NBH 8750 is. BUT on mine (#16021),which I needed to use because the right one was out of stock,the loop of the hose lays flat and directly on top of the compressor which supports it and keeps the t-stat end from kinking. Plus it doesn't drop down after the loop like yours but is a straight shot to the t-stat.
From your pic,if that's your vehicle or looks exactly like it,I'd say if there's an indent under the hose at the t-stat it could be restricting flow some. Mine has no indent.

 

Hi all, I've got a 89 Laredo 4.0 and I've installed a right hand drive kit for my mom (postal worker) but now I need to relocate the horn button for inspection. What color is the hot wire and do I just attach the hot and a ground to the new button or what? I know horns are supposed to be easy but they never have been for me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Her other car that she's currently using is about to give it up. ('00 chevy metro with about 208xxx)

 

I have a 1994 Cherokee Sport 4.0. The steering is blocky, it feels as if a gear is oval instead of round or something like that. Its tough to turn for a couple inches, then it get easy to turn, then tough again, etc... I've searched the tech section but did not see any "steering" issue threads that sounds like this. Any help??

 

Hows the steering stem, steering stem u joint.

 

Did a search for this on the forum but couldn't find anything.

Looking at a TPS from partsgeek. Two part numbers, $14 difference, not sure of any differences.
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...on_sensor.html

2229-07042286
and
2229-07042287

Both listed as new TPS that will fit the 1998 XJ 4.0L manual we've got... Any thoughts on the differences?

 

NEED HELP WITH 2001 JEEP CHEROKEE SPORT!
If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated. I just recently purchased this jeep, within a day the check engine light came on and it started taking a long time to start(5 - 10 seconds). I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor, spark plugs, fuel pump. The plugs and fuel pump were def. bad. After reseting the cel, it came back on, and actually started flashing for a few seconds. The new code says multiple cylinder misfire. I have a new ignition coil rail, but i can't get the wiring harness off the old coil. I slid this red piece to the side(not off), but will still not pull off. It is hard to see much due to position and short wire, would appreciate any suggestions on removing the wire harness or on what else may be causing this problem(still cranks over a lot before starting, mostly after sitting for a few minutes.

 

Does it have a distributor? If so sounds like thats your issue, I went through the same symptoms w my 86, make sure if you change it hook up a vacuum gauge n do your timing too

 

There is no distributor or plug wires, it has an ignition coil instead that seats on top of the plugs. I just cant unhook the wiring harness.

 

Thanks again Earl and Dukie. The rad cap was replaced when the rad was, but I will get another from the dealer just in case. That pic wasn't from my motor, it was late when I posted that. But it looks similar to mine. I'll get a pic of mine in a few minutes to post.

 

I apologize. I remembered that hose wrong. This one is mine.

 

I just got the harness unhooked and replaced the coil, will update with results, thanks for the consideration

 

You mentioned multiple cylinder misfire and after sitting for a few minutes. Which cylinders, and does it do it if it sits overnight? 2000 and 2001 are prone to heat soak on cyls 3 and 4 which causes the fuel in the injectors to boil. The official fix is some heat wrap on these injectors (reflective foil in the TSB I think) but something to deflect heat away from the whole intake manifold is more effective.

 

I'm not running much bigger tires. Anyone got a set of 3:73s for sale for a Chrysler 8.25 rear?

 

How do you remove the old breather hose from the Dana 30? I see the clip around the end does that pull off or slack with pliers