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Old Apr 4, 2013 | 05:46 PM
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  #28051  
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cruiser54
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by outofcommission
I have to shift my automatic transmission manually to shift through all of the gears, local guy says I need a tranny... What do you guys think?
I think we need to know the year of your XJ for starters.
Old Apr 4, 2013 | 06:21 PM
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94XjSport94
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Originally Posted by Eagle564

Dang i didnt know a zj was an option. Well ill measure my length and see what i get first. Although how much will the gap change with an sye installed? Wouldnt it shorten the yoke so i'd need an even longer shaft? I got time before my sye install to try and find one.
Yeah they are two inches longer than an XJ's. Nothing has to be longer, just shim the rear.
Originally Posted by Cherokeekid4x4

Okay man, I'm assuming I can put those in the rear too? Thanks!
The BPE's fit front or rear
Old Apr 4, 2013 | 06:52 PM
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1976Mustang
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Year: 1992 Cherokee Sport
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
Does anyone know the alldata times for the rear main seal?

Different shops around me are telling me different times. Id like to know for sure though.
Think i read this right...
3.7 w/o transmission removal
7.4 w/ transmission removal
Add 0.5 with skidplate
Old Apr 4, 2013 | 06:55 PM
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NewJerseyXJ609
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Originally Posted by 1976Mustang
Think i read this right...
3.7 w/o transmission removal
7.4 w/ transmission removal
Add 0.5 with skidplate
What setup would cause you to have to remove the trans? I guess if the seal is a one piece? If i looked in there and found a one piece I would cut that sucker into a two piece lol.

Aren't all the replacement RMS's two piece anyhow?
Old Apr 4, 2013 | 06:57 PM
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1976Mustang
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Originally Posted by NewJerseyXJ609
What setup would cause you to have to remove the trans? I guess if the seal is a one piece? If i looked in there and found a one piece I would cut that sucker into a two piece lol.

Aren't all the replacement RMS's two piece anyhow?
AllData said tranny removal isn't required but is "Manufacturer recommended" or something like that. I didn't even know what the rear main seal was until i looked it up just now
Old Apr 4, 2013 | 07:13 PM
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From: some small town oregon
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Engine: 4.0
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You dont need to pull the trans. Simple steps here.
Drain oil
Remove oil pan.
Remove rear main cap.
Use soft brass punch to tap upper seal out
Grease up new upper half seal.
Install with light taps of hammer
Put lower seal in main cap.
Put sealer on edges of seal where they meet up.
Install rear main cap and torque to spec
Reinstall pan with new gasket
Add oil.
Feel good for doing t yourself.
Old Apr 4, 2013 | 07:39 PM
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From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
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And also check to make sure it even is your rear main. A leaking oil filter adapter can look like a rear main leak if you're not looking real hard.
Old Apr 4, 2013 | 08:33 PM
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NewJerseyXJ609
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From: New Jersey
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Originally Posted by odgreen89on35s
You dont need to pull the trans. Simple steps here.
Drain oil
Remove oil pan.
Remove rear main cap.
Use soft brass punch to tap upper seal out
Grease up new upper half seal.
Install with light taps of hammer
Put lower seal in main cap.
Put sealer on edges of seal where they meet up.
Install rear main cap and torque to spec
Reinstall pan with new gasket
Add oil.
Feel good for doing t yourself.
That's why the trans removal threw me off bc I've done rear mains before. Never touched the trans once.
Old Apr 4, 2013 | 08:35 PM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
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Mines got oil everywhere. I think its my valve cover since its all over around it and dripping off the oil drain nut and off the transmission opposite said nut. Not sure though.

On a side note, zj steering is in finally installed.

And does anyone know how much an sye shortens the output shaft? Just curious since i measured from end of each yoke and got around 26.5" and my new shaft is 30.5"s compressed i believe plus another 3"s extended. Just wanna make sure itll work.
Old Apr 4, 2013 | 08:51 PM
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From: Manchester CT
Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 banger
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Originally Posted by rabblerouser
Ive got a question that searching didnt quite satify, so Im here to pick brains.

Ive got an 87 with a vac disconnect D30. Would converting the disconnect to a cable (to ditch the unreliable Vacuum setup) and then welding the open diff be an option?

The way i understand it is the diff itself is open. normally you wouldnt want to lock it w/o having a way to unlock it for street use. but seeing as the passenger axle shaft is a 2pc, would welding the diff and then using the disconnect to unlock the axle be a viable option?

I know theres more prefered methods, but im trying to keep this as low of a dollar build as possible, and it honestly sees more offroad than on road. (ive got a company vehicle)
Anyone? I have a feeling something wont work for some reason, because if it was this easy a ton of people wouldnt be buying front lockers. Confirm my doubts?
Old Apr 4, 2013 | 09:04 PM
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DESERTXJ206
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
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Originally Posted by odgreen89on35s
You dont need to pull the trans. Simple steps here.
Drain oil
Remove oil pan.
Remove rear main cap.
Use soft brass punch to tap upper seal out
Grease up new upper half seal.
Install with light taps of hammer
Put lower seal in main cap.
Put sealer on edges of seal where they meet up.
Install rear main cap and torque to spec
Reinstall pan with new gasket
Add oil.
Feel good for doing t yourself.
You reccomend removing the starter? Heard its easier with it out. Also how high do i have to get the unibody up to let the pan clear it?
Old Apr 4, 2013 | 09:17 PM
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outofcommission
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by ScikoFaery
check your solenoids? i had a fried one and it kept my jeep from shifting 1-2
Thanks I'll try that first!
Old Apr 4, 2013 | 09:23 PM
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SoCalxJ4.0
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From: Pahrump, NV
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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I am going to be re-gearing and locking the front and back. Right now I have 3.07's and plan on going down to 4.11's, with spartan or Detroit lockers. I am confused about "carriers", will a new carrier come with the lockers, or something extra I need to purchase? From what I understand, I will need new carriers. D30 front, C8.25 rear.

Thanks

Dave
Old Apr 4, 2013 | 10:14 PM
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From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by SoCalxJ4.0
I am going to be re-gearing and locking the front and back. Right now I have 3.07's and plan on going down to 4.11's, with spartan or Detroit lockers. I am confused about "carriers", will a new carrier come with the lockers, or something extra I need to purchase? From what I understand, I will need new carriers. D30 front, C8.25 rear.

Thanks

Dave
If the front is a lunchbox style then tou will need a new front.
Old Apr 4, 2013 | 11:52 PM
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94XjSport94
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Originally Posted by odgreen89on35s

If the front is a lunchbox style then tou will need a new front.
Front needs a new carrier because the d30 has a carrier break at 3.73. The 8.25 uses the same carrier throughout all the ratios
Last edited by 94XjSport94; Apr 5, 2013 at 06:50 AM.



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