Replace your Neutral Safety Switch, and that won't happen.

 

Thanks for the quick replies! I looked around as best I could when I had the bumper caps off and everything looked good to me, but my inexperience with the front end parts made me ask the question.

On a side note, can the plastic guards that attach behind the Bumper end caps (in front of the front tires) be taken off without any issues? I recently put on 30x9.5x15's (no lift, Jeep height is stock) and have some rubbing when I turn to the right. Looking at it, those fender well plastic pieces are getting chewed up. Or would it best to trim them up a bit?

 

Will the stock steering box turn 35 12.50

 

Those are the splash guards. You can take them off. The only issue is you'll get buildup of crap in your fender between your tires and your doors. A common fix is to cut a pool noodle to fit inside the fender there.

 

It can, but I don't know for how long, and I'm told it isn't comfortable. Look into the Durango steering box. It's bolt-in from a 98/99 V8 Durango (without the plow option). Makes steering easier on you, but i don't know if the box is stronger.

 

So here's my issue, in the process of a top end rebuild (1991 4.0HO) I yanked the lifters out yesterday, and there is about a 1/4" difference in the hight of the new lifters I ordered. (new are taller) Now I triple checked part numbers and even asked on here before I ordered them to ensure I ordered the correct parts. So here's my question, Does anyone know the stock lifter height?

 

Thanks again!

 

Like clown said, get that box upgraded as well as a new tie rod and end too if those aren't done either. Even of it works at first it'll eventually cause unnecessary strain on you and you jeep.

 

Two Questions! How hard is it to replace a gas tank & a rear wheel seal?

 

In addition to what these guys said, you need yo look at strengthening the frame as well. A lot of sites out there have steering braces and reinforcement kits. Even with the stock steering box, stress from larger tires can cause the frame rail to crack and stock spacer to break. A Durango box with 35s will definitely put you in that area unless she'd a pavement princess lol

 

Is there any one problem that can cause the CPS, ASD, and misfire codes? I've been having stall problems, replaced the battery (tested bad), TPS (got ahead of myself), and CPS (tested bad). Replaced the CPS, cleared the codes, and now it still stalls while giving up no codes. It was showing codes for the CPS, ASD, and misfire before the CPS was replaced. '97 4.0L AW4, thanks in advance for any help.

 

Gas tank looks like a massive pain in the ****. You have to drain it and work all the hoses, filler neck, and pump assembly ouy of it. If you're taking it out replace what you can while you're at it, and do any other related work in the area like welds, rust repair, paint the floor, etc.

Axle seal depends on which axle you have. C-clip ones require sone work in the differential, non-clip units are bolted on and I don't think need the diff opened. In either case looks less annoying then the gas tank lol

 

Hahah thanks! My gas tank has two leaks in it, and the wheel seal is leaking pretty bad, saw it last night when we looked over the jeep again. Ugh, more work and no play! ;-(

 

The gas tank on my 88 xj was not too bad. It is stock height which added more trouble. There's only 2 bolts holding the straps tight. And there is only a few hoses. I had to drop the gas tank 3 times in 2 days for faulty burnt up fuel pumps from auto zone. Replace the entire sending unit while your in there. Its worth the money.

 

I just recently did mine. Took me a couple days, but I was working on my Jeep in between my 12 hour shifts at work. It was a pain, and like they said, replace everything you can while you're in there. Tank, straps, sending unit, hoses, filler neck/overflow hose. Speaking of this, i still need to put my skid back on...

Anyway, '88 MJ gas tank swap from my build thread:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/re...9/#post1844254