Profile says 96. The transfercase needs to move internally to get it into 4L. You might need to run the engine briefly, or possibly spin the rear drive shaft, to make it move that gear into place.

 

On mine I had to put it in neutral to or it in 4lo

 

on my phone... couldnt see it lol

my lil piece of advice....
take the center cap off the wheel.
put wheels back on and drop to the ground place socket and breaker bar on nut and loosen.
raise rig back up and good to go...
what y'all are forgetting....
he prob has the entire front end off the ground and is trying to loosen a nut that is really on there with a open diff.......lol

 

On my 90 I had my wife hop in and hold the breaks really tight while the breaks were still on. Worked like a charm. Did the same thing to tighten it down.

 

Appreciate the help guys, Those are all ideas that would have worked but my 4 hi did the job. It is now time to reinsert the axle shaft. However now it is free spinning. I have it in 4hi right now (which is what held it into place the first time around) but now when I reinsert the shaft and spin it, I hear a little bit of knocking. like the spline on the shaft are rubbing against something. I feel like the reason it is doing this is because I don't have it in all the way. But I'm almost positive i do. SHould i just keep slowly spinning it until it locks into place?

 

I have it now. Just putting everything back together and now I'm working on getting the brake piston to back up so I can slide it right back on the rotor

 

I have a 1996 jeep cherokee and it wont crank over, when i turn the key to start positon i get no noise but still have power in cab, i can hear the fuel punp priming and a clicking sound coming from the starter relay. I tested the relay and its fine, also checked battarty power and grounds all good got the starter tested its fine, replaced it and battary couple months ago. Today i removed and cleaned engine block grounds with and still nothing, i wouldnt say its my coil or cps because the starter would crank if that was the case right? i dont know where to go from here... Any recomendations would help.

 

try it in neutral

 

Forgot to mention, i had nss problems a while ago but i tested it and im getting contenuity between the right pins so thats not it, even tryed bypassing it but still nothing so i rueled that out

 

NSS wouldn't cause clicking. This might sound useless but try anyways. You cleaned you engine ground but did you clean the battery ground, the terminals and check the wire condition. Clean everything with a wore brush

 

okay I been trying to find this it may be allready covered on this forum but can't find it. . is it safe to take the swaybars completely off. I know of some people doing this on other vehicles. I was just curious of others opinions before I go tearing them out.

 

No the nss isnt clicking the starter relay is, and i cleaned the battary ground too, i also cleaned both the terminals and titened up the conection, the leads might have corosion didnt check that, also havnt checked voltage at the starter itself, should i be getting 12v?

By cleaning i mean wire brush too

 

Dd? Lifted? All mine are off but i recommend leaving the front on and getting some quick discos. The rear bar is useless. You can remove it completely.

 

The rear swaybar is pretty much useless so you can get rid of that, but keep the leaf mounts and use them as bar pin eliminators for your rear shocks, as far as the front sway bar that depends on the kind of driving your doing, i honestly dont mind it but it does move a little at freeway speeds and corning you have to be a little more careful but it realy is prefrence.

 

I meant a bad NSS wouldn't cause the clicking sound when you start the jeep. A bad battery would. Have you try hitting the starter with a hammer to see if the starter is going. Also when did you clean the grounds and clamps. How long after the new battery. If you items were corroded even a new battery would eventually lose charge since it isn't charging right