Im looking at buying a 1994 Jeep cherokee from someone off of craigslist. When I asked them if there were any mechanical problems with it, they said that it needed to be jumped to start. I then preceded to ask them if it was the battery or the starter that needed to be replaced, and they told me that it doesnt need a new starter because it cranks when its jumped, so they said its either not making contact or the solenoid is bad. What can you make of this?

 

I bought mine in March same issue, mine to a 94. My issue was battery, they had a smaller sized old drained battery. Bought, had a portable battery, charged it up, went Battery Store new battery purchased n no probs

 

thanks a lot i was thinking that the problem was probably the battery as well

 

It was .4 Vac while cranking is that bad enough?

 

thank you salad,very informative answer.appreciate it.

 

so..i'Ve read it on the forum but can't find it after few search

got vibration in aceleration After a 3 inch lift.... might be the agle of the DS but might need a TC drop.... i'll corect my Diff angle this weekend whit shims...but what about TC drop ??

S.

 

A t case drop reduces the angle of your drive shaft, you need 2.5 inch wide shims, 4 or 6 degree probably, try to find steel ones.

 

so ..if i understand well...i need to drop TC 1 inch AND ad those shim in the rear ???

 

TC drop and axle shims correct driveline angles at either end of the prop shaft. Most people get away with a transfercase drop at 3" lift. A shim is a good idea because it could be either U-Joint that's binding. For a better/permanent solution look at a Slip Yoke Eliminator. For those hard on cash you can get a Hack-N-Tap SYE and nab a front drive shaft from another XJ at the boneyard.

 

i've read about hack and tap but not shure to understand how it's work....

for now. i'll go with the t case drop and shim...my wife is pregnant and no more time to spend on the jeep...but SYE will come next winter wit 1.5 inch more....

For the t case...the 2 bolt each side of the crosse member are not the same ...one got the head welded in the frame and come out...the other screw trought the frame... any idea HOW to chenge the one welde in the frame %????

does 1 inch will be enought??

Simon

 

I am bout to yank out my hair. lol 2000 XJ with coolant issues. Here is the scoop
1) checked the normal areas for coolant loss and found nothing
A) no leaking radiator,or hoses.
B) no water in oil or under the oil fill cap.
C) Had the heater core flushed, and flushed the cooling system.
2) I swapped out the water pump, and changed the thermostat. It still ran 220 and higher.
3) I checked all the area around the head nothing still, it does not steam out the exhaust. Still no milky oil.
4) wired the elec. fan to switch and the mech. fan works fine. Flushed system again.
Still ran 220 plus, so I took out the thermostat and put the housing back on empty and swapped the radiator, and flushed the system. It now still runs 180-190 degrees with no stat in it.

Any ideas????

 

What kind of t-stat was in there and when she was running did you happen to feel the hoses and see if they were hot

 

It had a 190* from Advance auto. The hoses were pretty toasty and water would pour out the overflow jug.

Note I still have heat too

 

i just bought an 87 country cherokee and the speedometer doesnt work but the rpm and other gauges work is this an easy fix by just swapping out the whole thing or is it a bigger problem thanks

 

Could just be a cable that is bad. It's not electric.