Here is the picture.
That stuff on the bottom is what was left of the bearing

 

Would a transmission be knocking if it was messed up?

 

Knocking???????

 

If a transmission is knocking it is messed up. At least I would assume. I would investigate because the noise could come from some where else.

 

How do you know if you have a limited slip diff? Would like to put synthetic fluid in and wanted to know if I needed the additive.

 

To answer this fast for you, raise the rear of your jeep and spin a tire forward. If the other tire goes forward too in the same direction you have it. If it goes in the opposite direction you dont

 

Got a Hack N Tap SYE from Dirtbound Offroad and planning to install in a couple of days. Was wondering if the front drive shaft from another '88 XJ is fine with an HnT SYE setup? My '88 is an automatic with NP231 and the front drive shaft donor XJ is also an automatic with NP231. I have ~3.5" lift now and planning on going to 4.5" soon. Does everything sound good or do I need a ZJ front drive shaft?

 

Running this exact set up right now no issues, but when you cut, cut as much as you can off of the out put shaft (before the yolk sleeve hits the back of the tcase) , because my DS didn't want to fit so I had to cut a little more off

 

I've heard and read from various write-ups that you should cut the tail shaft down to an inch in length and proceed from there. Is this correct to assume? Also, something I forgot to mention, I have a 0.25" cross-member drop and 4 degree shims on the rear axle. I've heard that these are bad when also using a SYE. Is this true or does it not really matter?

 

It depends on how long the yolk sleeve is, mine is like 2-3 "long, it's from IRO, they are local to me

 

Transfer-case drop with an SYE seems pretty pointless to me. Even at 1/4", that's the whole reason you got the SYE in the first place... Shims though still make sense. The whole idea is to get the angles of the components as close as possible.

 

Agreed

 

The only thing that worries me is if I were to remove the t-case drop, I'd have to battle with those stupid tack-welded nuts inside the frame rail. I already broke one off when I did the t-case drop and had a hell of a time getting it to tighten down. Lucky I even did at all... I mean, if it's not going to cause issues with using in conjunction with my SYE, I'm just going to leave it. I just want to make sure it's not going to cause issues before I decide whether or not to remove it.

 

needed to replace u-joints on both front axles, instead found 2 new axles for a little more than the u-joints, problem is they are wrong for my jeep(89 jeep cherokee sport, 2 door 5 spd) one replacement axle is long and one short, mine or both short and the one on the passenger side has alot bigger spline than the driver side, the driver side did look to match one of the replacement axles, parts store went up and down 4 yrs on vehicle and said that axle was correct, so had them bring u-joints which where also wrong, they took my old ones and matched them up, on the road again, problem is i still cannot find the correct axles, is this a common problem and if so what do i have. thanks guys

 

Not sure if I'm understanding you correctly, but from what I've gathered, you're trying to get axle shafts for your '89 XJ and the new parts come with one short shaft and one longer shaft, whereas your '89 has 3 shafts? If I'm to assume this is what you're saying, then it's a common swap. You're basically bypassing the central axle disconnect that the '84 - '90 XJs have. Any XJ '91 & up doesn't have the CAD system, they just have an always locked front axle.