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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 09:28 AM
  #8881  
dukie564's Avatar
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Originally Posted by onlyinajeep726
Picked up an 8.25 rear the other day off of a '94 XJ with 4:10's. I'm pretty sure it's a 27 spline. Wondering if it's possible to change to 29 spline shafts and if so, what needs to be done to make for a happy axle? Eventually going to run an Aussie locker. Any help is greatly appreciated.
You need a 29 spline carrier, spiders, axles, and seals/bearings, basically have to swap all the internals.
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 01:46 PM
  #8882  
FMXFreak's Avatar
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Joined: May 2011
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From: Clutier IA, where the jeep lays in wait, Pensacola, Florida, where im stationed.
Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by wildspear
They should be 12pt, 13mm. Make sure to use pb breaker. I broke two on my Cherokee ( dealer item, 12 bucks a price if I remember correctly ).
Yes i had a 13 mm 12 point and when i cranked on it it went click click click like it was stripping it out so i stopped and jumped on here for advice. Theyve been soakibg in pb blaster for a week now.
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 02:24 PM
  #8883  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Originally Posted by FMXFreak
Yes i had a 13 mm 12 point and when i cranked on it it went click click click like it was stripping it out so i stopped and jumped on here for advice. Theyve been soakibg in pb blaster for a week now.
Irwin Bolt Extractors

Old Jan 4, 2012 | 02:26 PM
  #8884  
onlyinajeep726's Avatar
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From: Clayton, NC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
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Originally Posted by dukie564
You need a 29 spline carrier, spiders, axles, and seals/bearings, basically have to swap all the internals.
So, it's not worth the time basically...
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 02:29 PM
  #8885  
dukie564's Avatar
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Originally Posted by onlyinajeep726
So, it's not worth the time basically...
not unless you break something. It's far easier to swap the entire axle.

Not really that much of an upgrade anyways from the 27 spline. 27 splines are fine up through 33s/35s.
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 02:54 PM
  #8886  
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From: Wichita
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Did renix stop in 90 or 91. Found a aw4 out of a 90. I was wondering cuz yhe renix ones will bolt to my transfer case. Also they are computer controlled right so i need the automatic renix computer? Does anyone know if they made the renix wiring harnesses universal (meaning i already have the plugins tucked away somewhere) or do i have to swap wiring
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 03:00 PM
  #8887  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Originally Posted by Jeepyjeepy
Did renix stop in 90 or 91. Found a aw4 out of a 90. I was wondering cuz yhe renix ones will bolt to my transfer case. Also they are computer controlled right so i need the automatic renix computer? Does anyone know if they made the renix wiring harnesses universal (meaning i already have the plugins tucked away somewhere) or do i have to swap wiring
Stopped in 91. You're swapping a 5speed for an auto???? Good luck. You;re going to need a ton more stuff than just the tranny.

You need the bellhousing, flexplate, PCM, TCU, wiring harness, transfer case, both driveshafts, linkages, and console - basically the entire truck. The manuals are longer than the autos, and won't bolt up to each other.

I would advise against attempting this swap.
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 03:06 PM
  #8888  
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92 Cherokee, Automatic, 4.0L, 4x4 chokes and looses power.

While driving my Jeep, the engine starts to sputter (RPMs jump) then looses power, then starts backfiring. So far it hasn't stalled out completely yet. I have to pull off the road and wait for it to correct itself before i can continue driving, and i dont have any more problems until i the next day.

If i put in the Red Fuel Stabilizer, and put in 98 Octane it runs perfectly for that whole tank of gas.

Is there a reason i have to run it so rich? I know its not the gas because my other 94 Cherokee get the same gas with no trouble. Can someone help please?

Also, does anyone have a link to a vacuum diagram for my '92?
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 03:11 PM
  #8889  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by 96xjclassic
Sounds to me as though you have loose ground wire somewhere. Possibly behind your gauge cluster or something of that nature.
If you have like 10 minutes and a small piece of sandpaper I would like you to humor me. Directly behind where your gauge cluster is, but on the firewall (engine bay) there is a small bolt with threaded wire attached to it. Loosen it, sand until you see clean metal and retighten. Next go to your battery, coming of the negative terminal wire should be a wire that runs to the left and bolts directly to the body. Follow the same procedure as before. We will start easy and go from there. Please keep us informed as to your results. We love pictures also.
Cool, a total ground and wire freshening is on my spring/summer to do list anyway but I'll see if I can get this part done sooner. The battery terminals look pretty crappy and I see corrosion for sure. At work I have some NO-OX-ID conductive grease that we use for grounding (I work for a telco/ISP), so I'll slap a little of that on once I clean things up.

Also, I take it that the oil pressure fluctuating is normal to a rough idle?

Thanks!
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 03:12 PM
  #8890  
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Joined: May 2011
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From: Newman, Lake WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 cold air
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Originally Posted by jeremypcp
92 Cherokee, Automatic, 4.0L, 4x4 chokes and looses power.

While driving my Jeep, the engine starts to sputter (RPMs jump) then looses power, then starts backfiring. So far it hasn't stalled out completely yet. I have to pull off the road and wait for it to correct itself before i can continue driving, and i dont have any more problems until i the next day.

If i put in the Red Fuel Stabilizer, and put in 98 Octane it runs perfectly for that whole tank of gas.

Is there a reason i have to run it so rich? I know its not the gas because my other 94 Cherokee get the same gas with no trouble. Can someone help please?

Also, does anyone have a link to a vacuum diagram for my '92?
This is just a suggestion, next to the air box attached to the frame. There is two little plugs. If one of those is lose or out of sack my jeep runs like crap and wants to die most times it does. Not saying this is your problem but its work a shot.
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 03:21 PM
  #8891  
dukie564's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
Default

Originally Posted by jeremypcp
92 Cherokee, Automatic, 4.0L, 4x4 chokes and looses power.

While driving my Jeep, the engine starts to sputter (RPMs jump) then looses power, then starts backfiring. So far it hasn't stalled out completely yet. I have to pull off the road and wait for it to correct itself before i can continue driving, and i dont have any more problems until i the next day.

If i put in the Red Fuel Stabilizer, and put in 98 Octane it runs perfectly for that whole tank of gas.

Is there a reason i have to run it so rich? I know its not the gas because my other 94 Cherokee get the same gas with no trouble. Can someone help please?

Also, does anyone have a link to a vacuum diagram for my '92?
sounds like you may have sediment or water in your tank. Run it till the tank is almost empty, then add a bottle of drygas and about 3 gallons of gas, then run it till almost empty again.
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 03:24 PM
  #8892  
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Originally Posted by Bassfishertim2015

This is just a suggestion, next to the air box attached to the frame. There is two little plugs. If one of those is lose or out of sack my jeep runs like crap and wants to die most times it does. Not saying this is your problem but its work a shot.
Would u be able to post a picture of the plugs in question? Im up to try anything. I have a infant riding with me
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 03:33 PM
  #8893  
dukie564's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Originally Posted by jeremypcp
Would u be able to post a picture of the plugs in question? Im up to try anything. I have a infant riding with me
he's talking about the fuel pump ballast resistor. You can completely bypass it (connect the wires together) without any issue (except perhaps more noise from the fuel pump)

The white thing seen here:
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 03:42 PM
  #8894  
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From: Cleveland TN
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Ok so here's the deal I have a 95 Cherokee xj it all started one day out of nowhere my jeep started running really rough and my check engine light came on I checked the codes and there was several diff ones , the next day goin down the road it lost all lights inside and out , a couple min later it completely dies and batt is dead I have someone bring a batt put it on starts up drives fine so I have mine checked its dead so I replace it jeep runs great for 3 or 4 days then starts the same missing and check engine code but this its the code for a bad alternator so I take it off and have it checked and it passed but I bought a new one anyways put it on jeep ran great for a week until I took it to the trails and it started it again so a friend said it sounded like the idle control sensor and he had an extra new one so I installed it and low n behold my jeep was running perfect the whole day and for two weeks but here we are again wither same problem part time crappy running and check engine light with several codes ... somebody please help I have posted this several times and gotten no responses
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 04:00 PM
  #8895  
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 950
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From: Newman, Lake WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 cold air
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Originally Posted by dukie564

he's talking about the fuel pump ballast resistor. You can completely bypass it (connect the wires together) without any issue (except perhaps more noise from the fuel pump)

The white thing seen here:
Ya what he said lol. Thanks duk

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