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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by Cracker
Wht do u think will happen if i do 245s
I like my JEEP...I hate my wife's minivan..but there are no minivan forums around, so I'll post my question here. My problem is that I tried to change the spark plugs (aluminum head) and the plug broke. The entire ceramic and the hex head came out...but the threads and the anode are stuck in the engine. There is obviously a LOT of corrosion there...but I didn't think that the rust would be stronger than the plug. Any suggestions on how to get the threads out?? Local mechanic wants to replace the head...and says you need to drop the engine to remove the head. No thanks. I'll scrap the minvan before I drop the engine out.
Any ideas appreciated.
PS ...minvan is a 2002 Merc Villager...with 110K miles (user manual recommends replace plugs at 105K miles.)
Thanks for any ideas you might have.
Any ideas appreciated.
PS ...minvan is a 2002 Merc Villager...with 110K miles (user manual recommends replace plugs at 105K miles.)
Thanks for any ideas you might have.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
From: doswell va
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
do it the same way you would do a broken bolt. drill a hole and use an extractor. if that doesnt work you get to pull the top end of your motor off just for that plug.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
I like my JEEP...I hate my wife's minivan..but there are no minivan forums around, so I'll post my question here. My problem is that I tried to change the spark plugs (aluminum head) and the plug broke. The entire ceramic and the hex head came out...but the threads and the anode are stuck in the engine. There is obviously a LOT of corrosion there...but I didn't think that the rust would be stronger than the plug. Any suggestions on how to get the threads out?? Local mechanic wants to replace the head...and says you need to drop the engine to remove the head. No thanks. I'll scrap the minvan before I drop the engine out.
Any ideas appreciated.
PS ...minvan is a 2002 Merc Villager...with 110K miles (user manual recommends replace plugs at 105K miles.)
Thanks for any ideas you might have.
Any ideas appreciated.
PS ...minvan is a 2002 Merc Villager...with 110K miles (user manual recommends replace plugs at 105K miles.)
Thanks for any ideas you might have.
Best way would be to weld a bolt inside the threads and back it out, maybe using some wax melted into the threads.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 15,581
Likes: 8
From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by jamurrin
I like my JEEP...I hate my wife's minivan..but there are no minivan forums around, so I'll post my question here. My problem is that I tried to change the spark plugs (aluminum head) and the plug broke. The entire ceramic and the hex head came out...but the threads and the anode are stuck in the engine. There is obviously a LOT of corrosion there...but I didn't think that the rust would be stronger than the plug. Any suggestions on how to get the threads out?? Local mechanic wants to replace the head...and says you need to drop the engine to remove the head. No thanks. I'll scrap the minvan before I drop the engine out.
Any ideas appreciated.
PS ...minvan is a 2002 Merc Villager...with 110K miles (user manual recommends replace plugs at 105K miles.)
Thanks for any ideas you might have.
Any ideas appreciated.
PS ...minvan is a 2002 Merc Villager...with 110K miles (user manual recommends replace plugs at 105K miles.)
Thanks for any ideas you might have.
Is the Snap-On going to be more effective than my Lowes/Kobalt EZ-out??
☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
I had my brake line twisted on the drivers side front wheel & i took a socket wrech & untwisted it & now whn i brake the brake light comes on & i have 2 pump the brakes 2 make it stop anyway 2 fix brakes & yes my brake fuild is full n engine
My 2000 XJ cranks but won't start. I put a code reader on it and it says CPS. I pulled the CPS and there are pieces of plastic and metal broken off.
My question is what does the crescent shaped piece of metal under the CPS and on what would be the distributor shaft do? It is loose on an Allen head screw, if I bump the engine the screw turns but not the piece of metal. Is this correct or do I need to tighten the Allen screw before replacing the CPS?
My question is what does the crescent shaped piece of metal under the CPS and on what would be the distributor shaft do? It is loose on an Allen head screw, if I bump the engine the screw turns but not the piece of metal. Is this correct or do I need to tighten the Allen screw before replacing the CPS?
Hi everyone, im new to this but i'll try to be clear as possible.
like a week ago.. my jeep's temperature its getting higher than normal.. ( being 210 at the temp gauge normal) and yesterday i discovered a little crack on the right upper corner of the radiator, wich had been fixed today.. then i mounted back the radiator again... plugged all hoses and stuff, filled with new coolant and water.. then i started the engine and there was no coolant leaks or weird sounds.. so i decided to have a test drive..
unfortunately it was overheating at the same temp when just traveled 900 meters.. so now i'm stuck thinking what could be the problem.. and would apreciatte a lot any recomendation!
...btw sorry if my english is weird.. it's because is my second language, being first spanish..(Costa Rica)
like a week ago.. my jeep's temperature its getting higher than normal.. ( being 210 at the temp gauge normal) and yesterday i discovered a little crack on the right upper corner of the radiator, wich had been fixed today.. then i mounted back the radiator again... plugged all hoses and stuff, filled with new coolant and water.. then i started the engine and there was no coolant leaks or weird sounds.. so i decided to have a test drive..
unfortunately it was overheating at the same temp when just traveled 900 meters.. so now i'm stuck thinking what could be the problem.. and would apreciatte a lot any recomendation!
...btw sorry if my english is weird.. it's because is my second language, being first spanish..(Costa Rica)
Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 109
Likes: 1
From: NW Florida
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6Cyl, K&N, 62mm TB, Electric Fans, D Neon Injectors, Head gasket needing replaced.
Really what is the best ATF to use for the AW4? Looking at the "online repair manuals" from Morris Motor Company I get no real answer. I been using DexIII/Merc, but would like to use some Royal Purple. Is DexIII/Mercon the right choice on a budget though. Also, I got a bottle of Lucas Oil's ATF fixer. Jp Magazine said it was full of unicorn boogers cause it basically built a new AW4. Anybody got any input.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by 97xjCR
Hi everyone, im new to this but i'll try to be clear as possible.
like a week ago.. my jeep's temperature its getting higher than normal.. ( being 210 at the temp gauge normal) and yesterday i discovered a little crack on the right upper corner of the radiator, wich had been fixed today.. then i mounted back the radiator again... plugged all hoses and stuff, filled with new coolant and water.. then i started the engine and there was no coolant leaks or weird sounds.. so i decided to have a test drive..
unfortunately it was overheating at the same temp when just traveled 900 meters.. so now i'm stuck thinking what could be the problem.. and would apreciatte a lot any recomendation!
...btw sorry if my english is weird.. it's because is my second language, being first spanish..(Costa Rica)
like a week ago.. my jeep's temperature its getting higher than normal.. ( being 210 at the temp gauge normal) and yesterday i discovered a little crack on the right upper corner of the radiator, wich had been fixed today.. then i mounted back the radiator again... plugged all hoses and stuff, filled with new coolant and water.. then i started the engine and there was no coolant leaks or weird sounds.. so i decided to have a test drive..
unfortunately it was overheating at the same temp when just traveled 900 meters.. so now i'm stuck thinking what could be the problem.. and would apreciatte a lot any recomendation!
...btw sorry if my english is weird.. it's because is my second language, being first spanish..(Costa Rica)
After you filled it up




