on an older cherokee you shouldn't need a tc drop for 3" of lift. Just shim the rear pinion parallel with the TC output and call it a day.

 

q

 

There's supposed to be a L-shaped rod there with a plastic wing nut thing. I have a spare one i picked up at the JY a while ago I'll send you if you want - you pay shipping. PM me if interested.

 

It should just be two bolts similar to what holds your battery down. Only these go through two of the bolt holes. It's been awhile since I've actually looked at it, so I don't remember if they have the simple "L" bend on the backside or not. You should be good with two bolts and wing nuts, or get some all-thread rod and make your own posts. I imagine that would be cheaper than actually buying the posts that are supposed to go with it.

 

BTW- I think I may have one for you out back.

 

i just had a brain fart and can't remember. is there a way to make a light shroud thing. like something to put under my spotlight on top my rig to keep it from blinding me? if there's a link, it'd come in handy. done did a search and all i kept getting was threads with the words "lights, headlights, foglights" aint really helping.

 

A follow-up-

My thermostat housing gasket was a little leaky, so I took off the housing to replace the gasket. Earlier I said that a Stant Superstat couldn't be put in upside-down, I was mistaken. There is a pair of very tiny holes, and on the under-side of the thermostat, there marks an L for which side goes left. Now to share some knowledge I gained!

There is a recess where the thermostat goes into the engine block, and if you're lucky the stat will sit right there and not move. If you're not lucky, like I was, the thermostat will keep falling out of its recess. To remedy this, I applied a very thin layer of RTV sealant to the very edge of the thermostat. Now install the thermostat into its recess and go grab a snack, or watch some TV for 15 minutes while it sits. This will hold your thermostat in place as you install the thermostat housing. Hopefully this will find the next guy who does a search. Perhaps this will prove to be a solution to the overheating issues I had.

 

Quick question...my 97 Country has power mirrors, but not heated. If I wanted to add them, is it as simple as getting heated mirrors from the JY and plugging them in, or is something else needed (wiring/relay)? I know the activate off the rear defroster, but wasn't sure. Thanks.

 

about 3000 miles ago my water pump went out replaced t ant the bottom radiator hose everything was fine for a bit but here recently it started trying to over heat while siting in traffic i and i looked and there was no water in the bottle so added some and it helped a bit.

but today i decided to finally drain the water and add 50/50 so i decided the best way to drain was the lower rad hose i took it loose and about 1-2 gallons of fluid came out and i thought man it must have been really low for some reason

then i put the hose back on and added fluid it held about 11/4 gal before it stoped taking fluid so i got reading about air pockets in the coolant and such so i drove it down the road and when i had to stop the temp would try to go past 210 and when i got back the coolant had emptyed out of the bottle so i filled it again and went for another drive and it acted the same but had more of a time interval on the temp spike

so tomorrow im going to put in a new tstat tomorrow and drill a couple of small holes in it i hear this will purge any air pockets from the system

do you think air is the culprit? here overheating was never a issue before my water pump went out and ive never burped it i never knew of suck a thing till today

any advice or recommendations ?

 

Drain your coolant, refill, let it run until tstat opens then add till its full and you see bubbles. Fill overflow to full line and ride out!

Sent from my iPhone because web wheeling is cheaper...

 

I've been flushing some very determined stuff out of my system myself, and when I refill at the radiator, I take off the upper hose at the t-stat housing. This allows some of the air displaced by coolant to exit the system (far better than rocking the jeep to get bubbles out of the radiator). I get about 1 and 1/2 gals in like this, then I fill the reservoir up to halfway between the add and fill mark. The air left in the system will get out in time, so you're just going to have to check your reservoir often and add as needed. I've noticed that if you let the engine cool for about an hour or so, you'll get a pretty accurate reading at the reservoir. So heat it up, then watch a movie or something.

Also, when you install your thermostat, take a good look at it for markings as to up, down, left, or right. Mine already had very tiny holes for bleeding air out already, and an L on one inside arm indicating it goes toward the left side. I missed these the first time through. I've read about others who have drilled it out just like you mentioned with no ill effects, though, so do as you wish.

 

i got a 41

the CEL comes on at start up,batt gauge reads a discharge until the temp comes up a tiny bit?, then it will hit full charge, if i turn it off and then back on at that point the CEL goes off.

i should also mention that the belt has been of just recently and this has started after reinstalling it. it also does squeal. it was much worse and have tightened it down twice now to where it seems tight but still squeaks a little, no where near as bad as it did.
I have been told to just keep adjusting it until i find the sweet spot. my question in that regard is how tight ?, and do i need to loosen the power steering pump to spin the adjuster or can i simply turn that bolt and tighten the belt with out loosening anything else?

 

what is this for?

 

Might be the old school comfort switch. It has a power setting and a comfort one. It changes the shift points I believe

 

oh. so it'd prolly be safe to keep in power? i've notice it doesnt want to go up hills. seems ta bog down and start to overheat. also does the same if i keep the same speed to long, usually round 2500 ta 3000rpm. tried gettin it higher but starts to get wobbly.