lets hope not.

 

Its kinda dumb to think that way too. More money doesn't always mean better quality. only smart thing to do is do your own research and draw your own, conclusion which can be done on the forum. But ask specific questions. Maybe like difference in build quality of different manufacturers flex joints. Not I want 4" inch lift. Where do I get it?

I have a ton of Rough Country parts awaiting installation. One is a long arm upgrade kit. Looks to be plenty beefy for the style wheeling I do (not many rocks at all). I bought it because it was the cheapest, and not so much in price but definitely in shipping also their warranty seems good, and my dad has had a lot of experience with them (not on an xj though) AND for the fact if this system fails me, I'd rather take money that would be invested in another kit, and buy tools and equipment to start making my own components.

That was winded.

Anyways, a 99 4.0 throttle body, what, if any years are interchangeable?

And it doesn't have a MAF sensor right? JY lists two dif prices one just TB and one TB w/ MAF, I could see them charging me if ANY sensor is on it though, bastards.

 

im not saying it works everytime but that theory has been proven many times throughout my life. as a matter of fact, i can't recall any time that it has let me down. for instance, compare a McD's burger to almost any other burger in your area and compare the prices. what did you find?

its my opinion. and opinions are like a-holes, everybody has one.

and by the way, how many times do we see on this forum, does someone ask a specific question? compared to the usual ''what lift should i buy?'' questions, not that many. i do agree with research. by all means, research. but then again, how many people research? if they did, they would't be asking those simple questions.

 

I dont understand how you can argue the "you get what you pay for" phrase. Cheaper lifts are made of cheaper materials, with cheaper and less time consuming build methods. Cheaper labor. Cheaper components(ie flex joints, bushings, ect) therefor your garbage(my opinion, dont get pissy) rough country lift/long arms will not last nearly as long, as say bds.

That phrase holds true no matter what

 

I found they use crappy meat too! So when I want a good burger I buy some good beef and fire up the grill! Get it? Lol.

I really don't care though, if someone comes on here asking which lift to buy instead of asking real questions and drawing they're own conclusion through comparisons, then they probably needed influenced in making a decision, and would be swayed by someone one way or another.

I like helping people but when it comes down to pulling the trigger on (first) lift kit the best thing to do is just get one ANY of them and get started learning what you want.

I'm just speaking from experience, I'm pretty sure when I first joined it was to ask a similar question, however I think I had at least some specific concerns.

Oh, and I figured out the TB are split up and 91-04 4.0s have the same TB? Is that true? And to confirm, stock TB is 58mm at the top and cones down to 55mm? Need to determine which gasket to get...

Thanks.

 

No doubt. I guess its more of how much more quality the extra money gets you.

I'm trying to say I KNOW what I got. And I'm fine with it. This going on a non DD, trail rig. I also went cheap because I'd rather begin fabricating my own components rather than buying them. I couldn't justify spending more money on what will essentially do the same job. And could potentially have the same problems.

And before I posted this, I looked at bds, because I couldn't remember what their kits looked like been a while since I had to shop around. And I do like the looks of their CAs they're crossmember appears toount the same way or at least similar to the RC one and theirs track bar looks skinny and single shear TRE. Guess there are pros and cons to everything. That was the 4.5" la kit. Costing roughly $2300 before shipping.

I guess piecing together a lift IS the only way to get what you want, that or build it. Lol

So yea, you get what you pay for rings true as a good rule. But every rule has exceptions.

 

Alright its ticking me off, anyone know a product # for a fel pro (or other) 58mm throttle body gasket?

Summit lists all kinds of them that look like the one I need but no sizes listed I tried googling the product numbers and can't find ANY listed sizes.

I'd rather not use RTV and I kind of need it for a template to bore out the TB.

 

For my 1999 NAPA has Victor Reinz G33268, rockauto.com has this as well as the Fel-Pro 60948

 

Thanks, I tried finding the sizes on those. But couldn't. Do you recall if it was same diameter as the bottom of the TB? Bigger? Or smaller? If the top is 58mm and the bottom is 55mm I want to make it 58mm all the way through I'd need a gasket with at least a 58mm opening right?

 

advance auto has them... #60948
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...GRPFUELAMS____

same bore size as the intake manifold hole (60mm) IIRC

 

Whoops, misread your original question then. No idea, I can't find sizes on them either. I'd assume that the opening is only as large as the base of the TB. Fitment for those parts seems to be all of the 91-04 I6 and I4s, I believe they all have the same TB size, though.

Looks like these guys actually modify the gasket to fit: http://www.strokedjeep.com/tbody.html but I guess all that tells you is that it isn't 63mm... lol

Those gaskets are listed as like $1.27 on rockauto.com... order one and find out!

 

Errrr... why can't they list dimensions... going in the grind my gears thread!

Nah, but thanks for the help guys.

I am thinking the stock gasket size is the same size as the bottom of the TB, 55mm, from memory, when I put a POS TB spacer on my 91 it came with two gaskets, and they were the same size as the hole on the spacer which was same size as bottom of the TB, and when I had to get a replacement gasket for it, a stock one worked. Thus concluding the gaskets for a stock TB must be 55mm.

But now that you say the intake opening is 60mm I'm wondering if opening the bottom to 60mm wouldn't be more beneficial. But that makes it a bit more of a process to make it horn like... I may just look into getting a bit of some sort for the drill press, research more, and see about a 60-62mm butterfly valve, and take it 60-62 all the way through.

 

Yea I thought about just buying every fel pro that looked similar and going to town ... lol but now I'm on the fence of how much to bore and how far I want to take it, so gaskets just became irrelevant.

If I find out a source (if one exists) for butterfly valves I may start making these.

On that note if intake hole is 60mm, wouldn't that pretty much be the optimum diameter to shoot for? Wouldn't 62-63mm just toss the air around when it hits the lip? Or at least be slowed down?

 

I have a 95 jeep xj 4.0 and recently it is starting to get almost what seems like a grinding sound. It inly happens when i am above about 30 mph, and i either have begun to coast or i am already coasting (at 30+) and lightly tap the gas. When i say lightly this is before it really engages anything. Any ideas as to what it might be? Thanks. Also it sounds as though it is coming from the rear, an pretty well centered.

 

hey all, I've got a 99 cherokee classic. 4.0 v6 4x4, yadayada. and my high beams no longer come on. i've checked my fuses, all good. i replaced the headlights themselves, nothing. i just got done replacing the switch itself, still nothing. i've looked through the haynes manual, can't really find anything to troubleshoot with so here i am, askin' the pro's haha. please help, these damn lights are the only thing stopping me from getting it inspected and road legal.