Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF ADMIN
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 34,088
Likes: 257
From: Lantana, Fl
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
Wow dukie you put some thought into that one. Sorry im not trying to be a jerk. I've noticed that a lot of the part stores around me have started carrying 10-40 instead of 10-30. And I've always ran the 20-50 in my 4.2s without a problem but that's just me.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
No problem dude i always hate when the oil myths come up - just looking out.
Different engines use different base oil specs so I can't speak for them, but putting diesel weight oil in a OHV gas engine is not the best thing for it.
Different engines use different base oil specs so I can't speak for them, but putting diesel weight oil in a OHV gas engine is not the best thing for it.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,291
Likes: 1
From: Manahawkin New Jersey
Year: 96'
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 160k banks header dumping after the cat
what would cause a pinhole leak in a radiator less then a year old?
96 cherokee, 155k. CSF 3 core radiator from radiator barn
96 cherokee, 155k. CSF 3 core radiator from radiator barn
CF ADMIN
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 34,088
Likes: 257
From: Lantana, Fl
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
A lot of bugs are acidic when they splat and very corrosive to aluminum. That's why its a good idea to rinse your radiator and grill out after going through the woods or when a million love bugs commit mass suicide all over your XJ.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,291
Likes: 1
From: Manahawkin New Jersey
Year: 96'
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 160k banks header dumping after the cat
makes sense it was aluminum too, it looks like i'll be replacing it with a stock one around $100
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by dukie564
Every single part of that statement is false...
- You don't "want" a thicker viscosity in any weather. The size of the oil passages and component tolerances in the engine design is what determines the viscosity prescribed for the engine. Engine designers spend millions determining what is needed for an engine to run at maximum potential for as long as possible, but for some reason people think they know better...
- Oil will not get thinner as it gets hotter. It reaches it's lowest viscosity at operating temperature, about 5 minutes after you start the truck, regardless of outside temperature.
- Oil is thick at startup no matter what you use. 95% of engine wear occurs at startup, so you want the lowest startup viscosity (the "W" part) as possible to reduce wear and tear on the engine components. (5W or 10W MAX. for the 4.0L)
- Thicker oil will not produce less dry starts. In fact it's exactly the opposite. Viscosity is a measure of resistance to FLOW, which is what lubricates an engine. A thicker oil will only be more difficult to pump, therefore not providing enough lubrication at startup. If you increase the base viscosity of the oil you put in, it's making the oil harder to pump for the entire time the engine is running. The myth of "oil sitting on engine parts = better" is completely false.
Bottom line - Thicker Oil = Less Flow = Poorer Lubrication, especially at startup.
So OP it certainly does matter what oil you put in - Engine manufacturer spec is 10W-30. 5W-30 is advised to ease startup wear and tear.
You can still use that oil he bought if you need to, but I recommend mixing it 50-50 with some 5w-30.
[pssst...http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ <---Read & Comprehend]
Me personally it's full synthetic 10w-30 in the summer and 5w-30 in the winter.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: ohio
Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
no fuel no ignition
Need some more advice please my xj quit running fuel pump isn't turning on and there is no spark. After all the wire chasing and testing I'm thinking its the pcm. Got the fuel pump to turn on for a second or two after I unhooked the pcm for a couple of hour but now nothing again. Looking for some more info before I replace the pcm. O and don't know if its relivent but the gas gauge isn't working either thanks for any info that can help
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Cold air intake
Anyone running a cold air intake? Notice good results? I am planning to get one but can't seem to find where i can buy one. Any ideas? I am in southern Wisconsin msg me if you want to sell me one.
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Moreno Valley, CA
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L
Hey guys need help. 1991 cherokee 4.0L
Instrument cluster wont work, speedo and tacho are out and the rest of the gauges are reading wrong info. The odometer isnt dialing up either. I already went to the junk yard and got a replacement cluster. After I did the swap, still no luck. I need some help before I end up spending any money on an electrician.
Thanks
Instrument cluster wont work, speedo and tacho are out and the rest of the gauges are reading wrong info. The odometer isnt dialing up either. I already went to the junk yard and got a replacement cluster. After I did the swap, still no luck. I need some help before I end up spending any money on an electrician.
Thanks
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Willamette Valley, OR
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Straight 6 4.0L
Is it the head gasket?
I have a few problems with my 87 xj. Don't know if they are all related of seperate. It's stumbling through acceleration, acts like it's going to die through idle, lost all tail lights/brake lights and emergency flashers, voltometer reads nothing, fuel gauge reads wrong info, coolant temp gauge is frozen just under 200, over heating like a SOB.
I've replaced the battery, radiator, upper and lower hoses, thermostat and housing after a full flush and I ordered the coolant temp sensor, but it still has all of the above problems.
I compression checked it (I did it in the dark with a very impatient wife so I reserve the right to be wrong and I'm gonna do it again in the morning) and I got these WACKED numbers.... From the front of the engine back, I got 20,25, less than 10 (possibly nothing), then 50 and 60 then 15. So what the heck do I do now? I mean I'm all ears on any of the above problems.
If it is the head gasket, how many other gaskets should I buy? cause I'm gonna replace them. If it's not then what do I do?
I've replaced the battery, radiator, upper and lower hoses, thermostat and housing after a full flush and I ordered the coolant temp sensor, but it still has all of the above problems.
I compression checked it (I did it in the dark with a very impatient wife so I reserve the right to be wrong and I'm gonna do it again in the morning) and I got these WACKED numbers.... From the front of the engine back, I got 20,25, less than 10 (possibly nothing), then 50 and 60 then 15. So what the heck do I do now? I mean I'm all ears on any of the above problems.
If it is the head gasket, how many other gaskets should I buy? cause I'm gonna replace them. If it's not then what do I do?
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
Hey guys, I've got a 97 Cherokee that has a rear end noise. It's kind of a howl/whirring/"wishwash" noise. It starts about 5mph and the noise level doesn't increase with speed but the noise is definitely rotational as the wsh wsh wsh speed up.
I did some research that lead me to thinking it might be the pinion bearing but everyone was stating that when they let off the gas the noise went away. Mine is constant whether I'm accelorating, coasting, etc.
This is my first 4x4 vehicle so I'm not as familiar with some of the quirks involved with them, but I am quite competent as far as wrenching on a vehicle.
Any suggestions?
I did some research that lead me to thinking it might be the pinion bearing but everyone was stating that when they let off the gas the noise went away. Mine is constant whether I'm accelorating, coasting, etc.
This is my first 4x4 vehicle so I'm not as familiar with some of the quirks involved with them, but I am quite competent as far as wrenching on a vehicle.
Any suggestions?