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Old Aug 14, 2011 | 08:48 PM
  #6391  
walburn's Avatar
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From: Indiana
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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well that's easy I figured it was somewhere in the dash
Old Aug 14, 2011 | 08:49 PM
  #6392  
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Originally Posted by walburn
well that's easy I figured it was somewhere in the dash

Goodluck!
Old Aug 14, 2011 | 08:49 PM
  #6393  
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From: Frederick, Maryland
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
After I get my main items done I'm gonna do my tune up of plugs map sensor
O2 sensors and the injectors. Rock auto I just found out is crazy cheap for the u2 sensors oem ones
Cool, good to know. I want to do my 02 sensors soon also.
Old Aug 15, 2011 | 03:59 AM
  #6394  
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Model: Cherokee
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runs hot,,, hits red line on gauage.. put on new cap.. new sensor for coolant temp. and sensor for electric fan,new thermostat, new hoses, flushed and filled.. Really... this jeep has been one big pain since i got her....there has to be a way to fix her .. just got her paid off...lol
Old Aug 15, 2011 | 05:35 AM
  #6395  
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From: Frederick, Maryland
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
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Originally Posted by leanorakay
runs hot,,, hits red line on gauage.. put on new cap.. new sensor for coolant temp. and sensor for electric fan,new thermostat, new hoses, flushed and filled.. Really... this jeep has been one big pain since i got her....there has to be a way to fix her .. just got her paid off...lol
Next you need to check your fan clutch, and water pump. Replace as necessary.
Old Aug 15, 2011 | 01:38 PM
  #6396  
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2
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From: Tiffin, Ohio
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6 cyl
Angry How do I clear the transmission pan from the exhaust?

Hi,
I first want to say thank you to all the knowledgeable people that post on the threads here, you have all been very helpful to me in the past.

I have an 89 Jeep Cherokee 6 cyl, 4.0 L, 4x4...two weeks ago as I pulled out of the parking spot, transmission was having great difficulty going into gear. . I have to rev the idle to between 3,000-4,000 RPMS and back off a little for it to "catch". The suggestion was given that it was probably nothing more than the Trans. filter an easy fix, well it has been nothing but easy.

Using your forum we managed to get the dipstick o-ring off after messing with it for the entire day. Then last nite we get everything unbolted ready to come off and the Transmission pan will NOT clear the exhaust. If we try to remove the exhaust from the head it is going to snap the bolts and cause even more damage.

Is there an easier and less expensive way to do this? I am a full time student with limited cash and really can not afford to take her to the dealership for repairs and you have all been so very helpful so far as to keeping me from having to spend large amounts of money to keep her running.

I would appreciate any tips, suggestions, and help anyone can offer me at this point!
Old Aug 15, 2011 | 08:41 PM
  #6397  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Originally Posted by Trixie89
Hi,
I first want to say thank you to all the knowledgeable people that post on the threads here, you have all been very helpful to me in the past.

I have an 89 Jeep Cherokee 6 cyl, 4.0 L, 4x4...two weeks ago as I pulled out of the parking spot, transmission was having great difficulty going into gear. . I have to rev the idle to between 3,000-4,000 RPMS and back off a little for it to "catch". The suggestion was given that it was probably nothing more than the Trans. filter an easy fix, well it has been nothing but easy.

Using your forum we managed to get the dipstick o-ring off after messing with it for the entire day. Then last nite we get everything unbolted ready to come off and the Transmission pan will NOT clear the exhaust. If we try to remove the exhaust from the head it is going to snap the bolts and cause even more damage.

Is there an easier and less expensive way to do this? I am a full time student with limited cash and really can not afford to take her to the dealership for repairs and you have all been so very helpful so far as to keeping me from having to spend large amounts of money to keep her running.

I would appreciate any tips, suggestions, and help anyone can offer me at this point!
Why don't you just unbolt the exhaust downpipe from the header flange? 2 bolts...done
Old Aug 15, 2011 | 11:37 PM
  #6398  
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From: Randoph ohio!
Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by dukie564

Why don't you just unbolt the exhaust downpipe from the header flange? 2 bolts...done
Question and^ answer lol..
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 07:42 AM
  #6399  
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 38
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From: Norman, Oklahoma
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I am getting a hissing sound under the dash and the brake pedal gets mushy/soft. I think it's the power brake booster. I have a '98 XJ 4X4 Sport. The repair manual says I need to remove brake lines and fluid,the airfilter and box during the removal process of the booster, then reinstall the lines and bleed the brakes etc. After looking at the booster, I don't see why I would need too. The factory booster in the XJ now has a Bendix sticker on it. My question is: Do I need to open up my brake line system, or can I just kinda move it around (still sealed metal lines) to get the booster out?
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 07:46 AM
  #6400  
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From: Lantana, Fl
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
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Be careful not to kink or damage the lines. Not reccomended but I've done it that way.
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 10:48 AM
  #6401  
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 140
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From: Clutier IA, where the jeep lays in wait, Pensacola, Florida, where im stationed.
Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Okay so hears a big one, I am in the process of reviving a 94 ZJ. It had sat for 3 years cuz wiring harness got chewed by some animal. So the previous owner retired it. I took it off his hands and started wrenching. I got the old harness out and put a new to me harness in but when I put I battery in everything works except it won't turn over. When I turn the key to start the brake light on the dash comes on? The starter wont even engage. So I went and checked all the fuses and relays all were good so I tried again and it still wouldn't turn over. So I had my dad turn the key while I listened in the engine compartment and I could hear a relay engaging I thought it was the starter relay but it ended up being the ABS relay. To make sure the starter relay wasn't broke I took the ABS relay and plugged it onto the starter relay and starter relay into the ABS relays spot. And again only the one where the abs relay was supposed to go engaged. So the relays aren't bad and I went and double checked every conection and they all seemed good. so as of right now I'm clueless as of what to do next. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all.
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 10:54 AM
  #6402  
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 196
Likes: 1
Model: Cherokee
Default Rear brake drama

I was off roading and tried to back up down a hill to get a better shot at it. As i start to move backwards and engage the brakes its like there s nothing there and it barely stops. What should i do to fix this? I thought i had them adjusted right but maybe not. Pads are good and just changed the springs about 4 months ago. Could this problem stem from bad bleeding process when i put my new axle in about a year ago? Thanks
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 11:20 AM
  #6403  
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From: Vancouver, BC
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Test the current at the starter and make sure all the wiring is still good there.
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 11:44 AM
  #6404  
FMXFreak's Avatar
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 140
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From: Clutier IA, where the jeep lays in wait, Pensacola, Florida, where im stationed.
Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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I checked all the wiring and all is well how would I check the current?
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 11:49 AM
  #6405  
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From: Powhatan, VA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by FMXFreak
I checked all the wiring and all is well how would I check the current?
Put a clamp meter around the wire you're trying to test.



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