nope not a frame stiffener. its a stearing box brace and there is a part missing in that picture. its for when your running bigger tires. so the stearing box does not move when in ruts while trying to turn out of them. and dont wrry about that rubber peice thats mangled you dont need really need it. its just to keep water and other elemants from splashing up into the motor compartment but you have a skid plate that helps aswell

 

that thing might be part of a track bar brace...rustys has a full kit.

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan..._Code=SUS_TRAC

it mounts to the opposite side frame from the track bar...makes it stronger...less stress on the unibody if you wheel hard i assume...

 

you can.

 

PNs..

 

I have a stupid question...

Found the U bolt kit I ordered a long long time ago. Measured the inside diameter.... 2.5" I am assuming this will not work for my 8.25 rear end? The axle tubes look way bigger...

 

8.25 axle has 3" tubes.

 

Ah ****.... that's what I thought

Oh well I guess I'm going to be getting another U bolt kit...


Thanks for the help

 

Are grand cherokee axles the same as the cherokee axles? If not, does anyone have a link to the factory axle and gearing specs for grand cherokees?

 

A friend of mine has a chrysler 8.25 with 27 spline that has a powertrak no-slip installed. I have have an 8.25 with a 29 spline. I'm interested in buying the rear-end but don't really want to go to 27 spline. Anything I can do with the locker, or will it have to be a whole rear-end swap?

 

I believe you can change the axle shafts and limited slip unit together but not separately, since the spline count is different. You shouldn't have to change the whole housing though. IMO

 

Sorry another newbie question coming..........

I have a 1990 cherokee, the wheels are 17", did this come stock on the cherokee? How do I tell how wide the wheel is? Is it stamped on the wheel? Ty for putting up with my newbie questions.

 

A stock Cherokee rim is 15" X 7". And to tell how wide your 17" rim is, you will need to measure, it's not stamped.

 

That's what I thought, but I was hoping for a better answer.

 

my drivers door doesnt unlock well with the power locks, but all the other doors work perfectly. is there a common problem with this? any ideas for a fix?

 

Pull off the door panel look down in the door hit the switch and see if your silonoid is going full stroke,then disconnect the rod off the silonoid and see if it move's easier if it does the siloid is probably worn out, if it doesnt check voltage going to the silonoid if voltage is good, silonoid is worn out. Buy a new one.