i need #10 not #2 i already found a Mopar Diesel neck, but i want to make sure that the 1.75" is the right diameter for the OEM hose.

 

Same hose for both necks in the parts book, sorry don't know dimensions

 

So total newb about A/C. I understand the physics and general principal and some miscellaneous electrical but 0 about troubleshooting leaks/hardware. I dropped my '99 off at the dealer to see if they could fix it fairly easy/cheap. They did a vacuum test but it wouldn't hold air and their next step would be to "charge it" with $120 of refrigerant and dye. They didn't have time to do it today so maybe I'll bring it back next week. My question would be if I just get one of those $30/$40 cans with dye, A: could I find the leak myself easy B: what usually leaks C: what's the usual replacement process? Do you get new parts? Are there ways to seal it if it's small enough? How expensive does it usually get? How expensive can it get? What should I do and when should I give up? I've got a FSM but haven't dug into it much. I figure it'll just be a bunch of dealer specialty tools/equipment to fix.

If I get a can should it have leak stop in it or no? I've read that that can destroy some systems.

 

It worked!

Mike I take back every bad thing I ever said about you.

 

So whenever im wheeling and it's raining and or the jeep is getting wet(mud river crossings ece) the jeep will start running really rough in 4low. to the point of almost stalling.. But it idles fine in 2wd or 4low when its dry. Any ideas

 

My AC is in the same situation, a leak. The UV-dye I have seen requires a UV light to see leaks. I have read that you will likely not see the dye because the leak is in the evaporator. This is where I suspect mine is because I have ha a leaking heater core also. I suppose the other common location would be the condenser due to its location in front of radiator, susceptible to damage from rock/debris and corrosion.
All my research says to Not use stop leak. It solidifies with contact to air, so when the system is taken apart the stuff can solidify in the parts and lines.

 

judging by the color around the crack, I'm guessing this is causing a leak?

 

Greetings fellow XJ'ers. My 1987 Cherokee Laredo 2.5 has a rusty fuseblock under the dash. I tried sanding the rust off so that the fuses get better connections, but some of the slots are almost gone. Anybody know of any cheap and easy fixes for this? A guy told me to grab the blades with a needle-nose and they'll pull right out, then use crimp style female spade connections to put the fuses in. Does that sound safe?
Thanks in advance.

 

Time to replace the fuse block and wire harness.
Go to the junk yard and pull the block and the harness slowly so you can see where it unplugged and goes. That will be the right way to fix it.

There is a better method for removing and reusing the terminals.

 

Definitely, that crack is huge.

 

That's what she said.

 

you nasty lol

 

compared to pics i've seen on here and other forums it doesn't look that bad. I'm planning on replacing it soon since I just dicovered it, but as far I'm concerned, it hasn't given me any trouble. thanks for the reply

 

NO!!!! A friend of mine found this out the hard way. You can find some tales of woe here:

http://acsource.net/acforum/search.php?keywords=sealer

 

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