t3 with MMO for cleaning the engine out.

 

ok thanks, I'll guess I'll switch over to the T6 after running it for a good 1000-2000 miles or so.

 

After it's cleaned up. T3 is a great oil. Using a good filter, right?

 

yea, I'm gonna pick up everything tomorrow. I'll probably get a Wix or Mopar filter.

 

Don't forget the MMO. You can monitor the progress by shining a light into the oil filler hole.

 

Where can I find this write up? Oil change soon and it wouldn't be a bad thing to clean some stuff out. Thanks in advance

 

The PO said the a/c never worked as long as he had it. Said it wouldn't hold a charge. But I will have it checked by a shop and recovered if necessary.

 

No real write-up. Drain oil. Use wix filter. Put 5 quarts of Rotella T3 in with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. Monitor the sludge dissolving through the oil filler hole.

 

Been thinking of adding MMO on my next change @~215,000miles. I think I might have one or more occasionally sticky lifters. The PO only drove it in winter(probably short commutes too). And it was pretty clickety-klackety even over the cherry bomb muffler I just got rid of. I changed the oil as soon as I got it and now that I've been driving it every day it has seemed to quiet down quite a bit. Sometimes it's clicky and even has a light clunky sound while idling/low RPMS and sometimes I can't hear anything clicky or clunky at all. What are the differences between T3, T triple protection, T5 and T6 and if doing 3-5k mile changes is it really worth it. I've read it might be better to switch to a heavier oil during summer(10W-40?) and back to thinner oil winter(5W-30?) (February can have week long stretches of -40F being the high). Is the synthetic/more expensive oils worth it with frequent changes and MMO?

 

I appreciate it

 

So here's the problem. I'm installing a lift and the driver side leaf spring front eye bolt was horrifyingly siezed. A bloody nose, 3 stitches, and a smashed finger later, my buddy and I finally got it cut out. Now the threads in the nut are stripped to hell. I have done my research and know that I have to cut out the nut, install a new bolt and nut, then tack weld the new nut to the inside of the frame. My question is how you go about cutting the old nut. My thought is to just drill a hole in the floor bug enough to fit a monster chisel and try to crack off the tacks. Does anyone else have a better idea or maybe experience with this same issue?

 

If the nut is still welded in place, leave it. Those tack welds tend to break, and then you have to cut a hole to put a wrench on the nut so it can't spin.

 

I just got a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee, and the very back cargo window is broken. The problem is, it's sealed with glue. I have no clue how to get it out or how to put one in. We called a local shop and they said it would cost $330. But I found a guy that has a window but he said I have to get it out. How do I get my window out? How do I glue another one in?

 

The nut is still welded, but the threads are shot. I honestly wish the tacks had just broken haha. My issue is it needs a new nut, but the old one is still welded in place

 

Right. Sorry, my mistake. That's an issue I haven't run into, but are you sure the threads are shot? Can't straighten them out with a tap?