Just wondering if anyone has ever swapped from a Renix wiring harness to an HO specifically a 97+ Harness, pcm etc.. the reason I'm buying an eaton m62 supercharger and the split second FTC is plug n play for that year. Don't want to cut and splice since it's not the original harness. I have an AX-15 and doing a mini stroker with forged Pistons and comp cam 68-232-4, HO head, 99 intake, 62mm TB, pacesetters headers etc.... The engine is currently out and have plenty of room to work and clean up the engine bay.

 

you probably would have to change fuel pump, and other stuff to make the 97+ wiring work.

 

Well, after finally pulling the gas tank out to fix the leaky o ring on my fuel pump, I reinstalled the tank and now my fuel cage says it's empty, below empty, when actually, it's got over half a tank. Not sure what I did. Only thing I can think of is that I hot wired the fuel pump to pump about half a tank of gas out. I may have touch the wrong wires together. What may I have done that would cause the fuel pump level thingy to say empty? Thanks

 

my 4lo seems to be making some kind of grinding noise from where sounds like the front. seems like a u-joint but i don't hear anything in 4hi full time and 2wd and when checking them out they are tight.

sound increases or decreases as the wheels spin. I was in the snow so when turning and working my way out that's when it could be heard. like I said nothing in 4hi. could it be TC related or are those kind of sounds to be expected in low gearing?

next time I'm on a dirt road I'll give it a try again to see if it's only when the wheels spin freely or also with traction but I'd like to get an idea first

 

Relevant to my seat question, are the 97+ seats a two part system? Meaning there is a lower mount that can be removed and the actual seat bracket that reclines and connects the seat pan to the seat back?

Thanks!

 

i got a 96 zj with a 5.9 magnum
a knocking sound became apparent not too long ago and has gotten worse
it only does it when i am in park at idle, it drowns out if i raise rpm. if i put it in any other gear it stops, it sounds like its coming from the bottom part of the engine in the front.
so i took off the serpentine belt, started it and its still their ,sounds slightly different with belt off
so a buddy of mine says its the harmonic balancer, and when looking at the bully it does appear to be uneven or tilted when its running,
the rubber is sticking out evenly about 1 to 2 millimeters in the front
then i noticed on the oil pan right behind the bully what looks like dried liquid rubber witch has flowed down from the center of the bully shaft

ok
a little while ago i had a water pump problem and overheated the sound started after that though
is it possible that overheating melted the rubber in the harmonic balancer and caused it to move and after a little time the rubber has further failed and generated this knocking sound??? any experienced
thoughts on this

 

Honestly I don't think those look that bad. The rust is just surface, not structural. Anyone who lives in the north is used to stuff like that. They look to me like upcountry springs or just HD replacements. The ends on each leaf look the same and they are all evenly spaced, making me think it does not have an AAL lift, which is good. I personally have HD replacement rear springs on my Cherokee and I have 1.75" polyurethane spacers in the front to level things out. Since your flares are still there, measure from the center of the wheel to the bottom of he flare in the rear. I believe 17.5" is stock. Anything more than that is how much lift you have in the rear. Get front spacers with the appropriate amount of lift, as long as it's less than line 2".

 

I personally find my 94 XJ seats to be quite comfortable

 

My 97 Cherokee 4.0 184,000+ miles had been running rough and the check engine light was on, so i scanned it and here is what it showed.

Stored DTCs
PO303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire
PO304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire

Pending DTCs Detected During Current or Last Completed Driving Cycle
PO300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
PO302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire.

I proceeded to do a cylinder compression test and these were my results Cylinder #1 - 150 psi
Cylinder #2 - 150 psi
Cylinder #3 - 70 psi
Cylinder #4 - 70 psi
Cylinder #5 - 150 psi
Cylinder #6 - 150 psi

What other test should I do or what do you guys think is wrong? PLEASE HELP!!!

 

Low compression on two adjacent cylinders is frequently caused by a blown head gasket.

 

tonight i noticed that my passenger parking light doesnt light up when my headlights and driver side parking light is on but if i put my passenger side blinker on it does work. any ideas as to why this is happening?

 

Is the low-side filament burned out? Try swapping the bulb over to the driver side

 

I have an 89 with the 4.0 it has a good spark. Sprayed starting fluid just for kicks and giggles. Still no start. Unplug the crank sensor and it cranks evenly plug it back in and it'll crank then act like it's catching or battery is dieing then crank then lug.. Replaced starter and battery no change. Has new coil distributer, plugs, plug wires, TPS (different problem) ECM. Has good compression and timing is right. I've cleaned all the grounds. I'm at a total loss on this one

 

What color spark?

CPS output is??????

 

Spark is blue. And I just put a new one on it and it didn't change. But the other on was .24 on the ohm meter