Funny that you say that. I had an s10 pickup a few years back that I had K&N filter in the stock airbox. Still had the sticker on the airbox lid:



I was being lazy and didn't feel like changing my own oil so I took it to Jiffy Lube. The moron pulled my filter out of my airbox and showed it to me and said "You should replace this, it's really dirty"

When I informed him that it was a K&N filter, he said "What's that mean?"

I told him to get his hands off my truck and called a manager over.

My oil change was free... I ended up redoing it myself when I got home because I couldn't trust that they did the job correctly.

 

EPIC FACEPALM

 

Oh man, it was ridiculous! I was only about a year out of highschool and knew slightly more than the average car owner about cars at the time (had done break jobs, wheel bearings, oil changes, tire patches and stuff like that my dad taught me), and here this guy was with certifications and stuff to actually work on cars.

 

Another question: Does this look like rust or radiator stop leak or anything? I had to refill the reservoir after I purchased it from the PO. I was hoping they had just drained the heater core or something as I have seen no drips from anywhere at all...I know weird right? Even my '13 Jeep drips a bit but this '96 seems completely drip free.

 

Ok, I tested my IAT and ECT at ambient temp first thing in the morning before starting, and after operating temp for 15 minutes. The ohm reading on both were within limits. Checked the harnesses for shorts or burn marks, and shot them with key on engine off, and the IAT got 5.2vdc, the ECT got 5.12vdc. I also ohm'ed out my fuel injectors at temp, they all get the same ohm resistances. I did notice however my new distributor/cap (replaced as an assembly) is clicking again. I checked for sparks while running at night to see if there was arcing from a spark plug wire to something else, but nothing. The clicking is not consistent, but it does not go away after engine warm-up. I also checked my crank position sensor just to see if it had something visible that might make it operate intermittently. It had a little gunk, but nothing anywhere near concerning. The 3 wires had been spliced (not very well), but I re-did the splices and put some heat shrink on (nothing open on Christmas day to get a new one). Jeep still runs the same old crappy.

 

Hi, another newbie to this particular forum. I just bought a 1998 Cherokee that is in pretty nice shape, I have owned a 91 YJ for quite some time along with a 1990 T-bird Super Coupe. The only issues I spotted on my Cherokee were: No 4x4 indicator, I replaced the switch on the transfer case and it now works. No heat at all so I flushed heater core now I have heat and will flush rest of cooling system because it looked rusty. Rear passenger lock does not unlock when driver unlock button is depressed or remote unlock is depressed, it does make the noise of trying to unlock but it doesn't seem to go all the way to the unlock position so I imagine when I tear the door panel off it will likely become obvious what is wrong so that is not a big deal either.

Where I am having a hard time deciding how to trouble shoot is the Driver side heater vents are not blowing air, this is a remaining issue and I am not sure where to start. Has anyone had an issue like this that would be able to give me a hint on what to look for?

 

I'm in need of help guys. I just recently purchased a 1997 jeep Cherokee. When I got it the brake pedal would go all the way to the floor and had very little stopping power. I pulled the tires off and changed front brake pads and calipers. It still was doing it so today I went and bought a new master cylinder ( doing a little research before hand so I thought that must have been the problem) and installed it. I then bled all the lines. The pedal is still going to the floor but it actually has a little bit of braking power now. I'm running out of options and was wondering if anyone has had the same problem before. P.s. The back brakes are completely gone. Are the back brakes the only thing causing this. If someone could reply it would be awesome. Thanks

 

Welcome to CF and the XJ community. It sounds like you've got a good knowledge base, and it'd be nice to see you stick around.

When I had that problem in my '79 F150 I found a lot of chewed up/dry rotted ducting. I haven't pulled a Cherokee dash, so I don't know if that's relevant, but it may be a possibility.

 

What ever it is, doesn't look good. What is more telling would be the fluid inside radiator, should be green and clear.

 

Seems my #6 spark plug wire was fried. Got them brand new about a month and a half ago, but since then, I've replaced my coil pack. My guess is the coil pack fried it. The only way I found it was to check resistance from end to end of each wire while wiggling the wire looking for intermittent faults. Thanks Salad for your help, I learned a lot about my sensors and how they affect engine operation!

 

hello everyone, im portuguese and im here to ask if anyone there knows if there is something in jeep cherokee that block the crankshaft ....i explain, i was in road at about 150 in velocity and in that moment the car slowly begin to had less power and less and before i parking he stops , then i tried to start but the engine is bloked, doesn turn and i dont know if the crankshaft its whit a problem or if there is a valvue or other thing that is blocking the engine, really dont know where to start ...thankyou and sorry my poor english

 

2000 Cherokee, 2.5L diesel. Correct? Which transmission?

If it is like domestic Cherokees, it could be a Crankshaft Position Sensor failure.
Does the engine have fuel?
When you turn the key, does the engine crank (Does it try to start)?
If the engine does not crank, exactly what does it do?

 

since it's a 2000, it's a NV3550

Those with 2.5 VM diesels never had an automatic behind it in Cherokees from the factory.
They had AX-15 until '99 obviously and switched to NV3550.

 

yes its a 2000 cherokee classic, its a 2.5TD, ofcorse have fuel and the problem is that he doesnt even crank, you turn the key but the starter doesnt make any sound , ofcorse because the engine is blocked and there is something blocking him just dont know what is it , you migth tell me to go to a down road and let the car move on and engage him but i already did that and what happens is the wheels do not spin and stay blocked , if the engine is blocked the wheels will not spin ofcorse ..thankx for your attencion

 

mine its AX15, but this is not about the tranny , its the engine , he doesnt crank because he have something blocking him that doesnt let him turn , but i guess i will have to remove lots of things there so i trie see what is the problem , i had hope was something like i valve or other but i guess the engine have always to move free and mine doesnt move