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Dec 18, 2014 | 05:31 PM
  #47311  
Quote: I would Start with what you mentioned. Maybe check for an exhaust restriction.
Is it getting up to temp?
Checked exhaust and all is good. My temp has been acting a little funny as well, its running a little hot when idling, and lowers when Im cruising. If Im idling for a while it hits 110-115 on the temp gauge and if I punch it while idling it cools down. Give it a minute and it heats up. My rad has a slow leak, and is getting fixed this weekend but ya.
Dec 18, 2014 | 05:39 PM
  #47312  
Quote: I don't know, maybe I'm wrong. I'm open to correction
Consider this your correction.
Dec 18, 2014 | 08:18 PM
  #47313  
Ok, just to make completely sure.. The 97-01 Chrysler 8.25 is a c clip type correct?
Dec 18, 2014 | 08:28 PM
  #47314  
Quote: Ok, just to make completely sure.. The 97-01 Chrysler 8.25 is a c clip type correct?
yes and they should fall right out when you give the wheels an inward push.
Dec 18, 2014 | 09:15 PM
  #47315  
Quote: Question, my 95 xj literally got sluggish today. Nothing happened, havent even wheeled it at all recently. I know they are not fast to begin with, but the throttle response is just weakened now. It still gets up to the same speeds fine, just seems to take longer and more pressure on the skinny pedal. Am I right to assume this problem could be fuel injectors? I am going to replace them, but before I do is there anything else that can be done. Im going to clean the throttle body and air intake as well when I do this.
Tires still got air in 'em? Parking brake on?

Quote: 110-115 on the temp gauge and if I punch it while idling it cools down. Give it a minute and it heats up. My rad has a slow leak, and is getting fixed this weekend but ya.
Celcius? Hope that's not farenheit lol

Quote: Ok, just to make completely sure.. The 97-01 Chrysler 8.25 is a c clip type correct?
Yes all XJ rear axles except for very early D35 and D44s use C-clips. That includes all years of the C8.25.
Dec 19, 2014 | 07:52 AM
  #47316  
Quote:
Yes that's why. Hydraulic action in the transfer case can still turn the transmission, equating to unnecessary wear. In both auto and manual oil is circulated by the input section - when the front half is stopped and the rear is spinning madly there's no lubrication to anything. No bueno.

Transfer case oil pump is on the main shaft so this isn't a problem.
Good info
Quote:
Consider this your correction.
Done and done.

Thanks, gents
Dec 19, 2014 | 03:10 PM
  #47317  
Alright if y'all remember I posted about my np242 jumping out of 4lo whenever I bumped ledges and stuff you need to to for wheeling. This is completely unacceptable of my case so I asked about the cable shift. Steve have me great info on how to adjust the linkage and I still need to do that but I have a theory.
I've got brown dog poly motor mounts and a good trans mount but I have noticed that during acceleration or stopping or crawling down a steep inline my whole drive line moves about an inch or so forward. I know this because after hard braking my motor is at the front of the mounts and after a hard acceleration up a hill or whatever it's slid to the back of the mounts.
I'm guessing whenever I'm bumping a ledge or rocks that the whole drive line shifts and it bumps the case out of 4lo.
Thus, giving me the idea of buying the super brackets made by Brown dog that don't allow any sliding of the drive line. I would then adjust the linkage and hopefully no more falling out of 4lo.
Any thoughts on this or did I hit the nail on the head?

Or my redneck side could come out and stack washers on each side of the bolt between the brown dog bushings and the inside of the motor mount bracket?
Lol
Dec 19, 2014 | 03:31 PM
  #47318  
Quote: Alright if y'all remember I posted about my np242 jumping out of 4lo whenever I bumped ledges and stuff you need to to for wheeling. This is completely unacceptable of my case so I asked about the cable shift. Steve have me great info on how to adjust the linkage and I still need to do that but I have a theory.
I've got brown dog poly motor mounts and a good trans mount but I have noticed that during acceleration or stopping or crawling down a steep inline my whole drive line moves about an inch or so forward. I know this because after hard braking my motor is at the front of the mounts and after a hard acceleration up a hill or whatever it's slid to the back of the mounts.
I'm guessing whenever I'm bumping a ledge or rocks that the whole drive line shifts and it bumps the case out of 4lo.
Thus, giving me the idea of buying the super brackets made by Brown dog that don't allow any sliding of the drive line. I would then adjust the linkage and hopefully no more falling out of 4lo.
Any thoughts on this or did I hit the nail on the head?

Or my redneck side could come out and stack washers on each side of the bolt between the brown dog bushings and the inside of the motor mount bracket?
Lol
First determine where the slop is and why, something is wrong to have nearly one inch of drivetrain movement!
The super brackets will not solve this issue unless your brackets or bolts are broken.

IF, the only issue is a gap on either side of motor mounts than washers is what I was thinking also.
The engine mount 'ears' that capture the motor mounts should not allow that much movement.
Need to pinpoint that slop. Will not be long before a fan eats the radiator.
Dec 19, 2014 | 03:35 PM
  #47319  
Quote: I've got ... a good trans mount but I have noticed that during acceleration or stopping or crawling down a steep inline my whole drive line moves about an inch or so forward.
No you don't
Dec 19, 2014 | 03:38 PM
  #47320  
Quote: First determine where the slop is and why, something is wrong to have nearly one inch of drivetrain movement!
The super brackets will not solve this issue unless your brackets or bolts are broken.

IF, the only issue is a gap on either side of motor mounts than washers is what I was thinking also.
The engine mount 'ears' that capture the motor mounts should not allow that much movement.
Need to pinpoint that slop. Will not be long before a fan eats the radiator.
I don't have to worry about the fan, i have two electric fans and that fan clutch pully is completely by passed and actually I cut off the mounting part of it cause my motor was moving and the e fan was rubbing that mounting bearing thing.
So I cut it off. Lol
It's really not an inch on either side, the motor mount bracket is whats gapping the motor mount. By about 3/8ths of an inch on both sides. So if the motor slides back it can now move almost an inch forwards. Get what I'm saying? It's definately just the motor mount sliding in the bracket on the bolt. I've checked everything else out. You think I could be right about the drivetrain moving making the case fall out of 4lo? I'm gonna buy some washers I think cause that's a little cheaper than the 270$ brackets lol
Dec 19, 2014 | 03:40 PM
  #47321  
Quote:
No you don't
Lol, I changed it 6 months ago and checked it out two days ago. That flimsy peice of rubber wouldn't stop my whole drive line from sliding forward or backwards since there is space between the brackets and the mounts anyways
Dec 19, 2014 | 03:58 PM
  #47322  
Quote: the motor mount bracket is whats gapping the motor mount. By about 3/8ths of an inch on both sides. So if the motor slides back it can now move almost an inch forwards. Get what I'm saying? It's definately just the motor mount sliding in the bracket on the bolt. I've checked everything else out. You think I could be right about the drivetrain moving making the case fall out of 4lo? I'm gonna buy some washers I think cause that's a little cheaper than the 270$ brackets lol
Hold on, I was the one suggesting that the drivetrain was shifting! lol
But seriously, if you have confirmed the slop, and that your engine brackets and bolts are intact, then yes, try filling the gap with washers and allow enough room for vibrations. Perhaps even rubber washers.
Also consider calling Brown Dog on the phone, talk to the tech department.
I believe I have spoken to most of the tech departments that cater to the XJ.
When I built my rig, I was not on the forums. If I had an issue, I picked up the phone.
Dec 19, 2014 | 04:05 PM
  #47323  
Quote: Hold on, I was the one suggesting that the drivetrain was shifting! lol
But seriously, if you have confirmed the slop, and that your engine brackets and bolts are intact, then yes, try filling the gap with washers and allow enough room for vibrations.
Also consider calling Brown Dog on the phone, talk to the tech department.
I believe I have spoken to most of the tech departments that cater to the XJ.
When I built my rig, I was not on the forums. If I had an issue, I picked up the phone.
Lol, yeah I'll pick up some washers and report back. I've spoken to Tim at Brown dog a couple times. Super nice guy. I actually had this problem so bad a while back that it ripped the outer bushing ring off the bushing. See the little Dom sleeve keeps the bushing from sliding out but when it kept hitting the front of the mm bracket it ripped that ring right off.

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This was a fault of the t case drop I had on at the time Tim and I concluded.
The drop is gone and a sye is in place. Even though the fault was mine time sent Me a bushing 're build kit for FREE just because the mounts were only on there for about 500 miles before this happened.
He had no obligation to do that and he will always get my business from now on.


Dec 19, 2014 | 04:22 PM
  #47324  
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Wtf do i do now. supposed to drive home for christmas on sunday. First bolt i was torquing down while putting my valve cover back on


Dec 19, 2014 | 04:39 PM
  #47325  
Update: got the other half out. how bad is it to drive with one of these guys missing?

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