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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 10:49 AM
  #45481  
NewKindOfClown's Avatar
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Not a fix.
FIFY
Old Sep 17, 2014 | 05:18 PM
  #45482  
MarkMelicia's Avatar
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Year: 2001 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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hey guys,
need some advice. 2001 xj getting the follwing codes,

po123: idle position sensor high voltage, po505: idle air control motor circuit shorted, P0130: upstream O2 sensor heater relay circuit fault, PO136: downstream 02 sensor heater relay circuit fault, P1491: radiator fan relay circuit open or short, P1596 speed control switch always high.

airbag light coming on intermittently. running ok other than a bucking/misfire when accelerating.

where should i start in troubleshooting.

thanks
Old Sep 17, 2014 | 05:18 PM
  #45483  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
FIFY
That's way more accurate!! LOL.
Old Sep 17, 2014 | 07:08 PM
  #45484  
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Year: 86
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.8
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Okay so I've been having this problem on my 86 Cherokee 2.8l 5 speed. When I get in in the morning it'll start then shut off. Then start back up and stay on but when I put it in 1st to pull out I bucks and wants to hesitate with a little driving it goes away about half way to work which is about a 20 min drive any idea? I know the idle needs to be turned down a little I'll be doing that tomorrow. But I have no idea why. Also I'm going to be putting a new fuel filter in. Any help would be appreciated.
Old Sep 17, 2014 | 07:20 PM
  #45485  
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From: Hagerstown MD
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 w/Flux Capacitor
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SO before i knew anything about vehicles when i got the jeep and did my first oil change i treated it with some sort of stop leak. Ive changed the oil a few times since then for whatever reason. (its gotten 3 oil changes in under 10k miles) Will seafoam in the crank case help flush all that crap out?
Old Sep 18, 2014 | 04:41 AM
  #45486  
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Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole
SO before i knew anything about vehicles when i got the jeep and did my first oil change i treated it with some sort of stop leak. Ive changed the oil a few times since then for whatever reason. (its gotten 3 oil changes in under 10k miles) Will sea foam in the crank case help flush all that crap out?
Yep, but I would advise using Motorkote in it after that along with Shell T-6 synthetic 15-40 oil. I,ve used it in mine, but the motor was toast anyhow. READ the directions on the can. Left mine in for a couple hundred miles or so.
Old Sep 18, 2014 | 06:02 AM
  #45487  
jeeper albert's Avatar
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From: Curacao, Willemstad
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L inline 6
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A man claimed his MJ had a chassis.
I thought XJ's and MJ's both were unibodys.
Could this be true ?
Old Sep 18, 2014 | 06:56 AM
  #45488  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by jeeper albert
A man claimed his MJ had a chassis.
I thought XJ's and MJ's both were unibodys.
Could this be true ?
Chassis means a lot of things. XJs definitely have one.

MJs are uniframe up front and real frame in the rear.
Old Sep 18, 2014 | 11:35 AM
  #45489  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by salad

Chassis means a lot of things. XJs definitely have one.

MJs are uniframe up front and real frame in the rear.
Yes. More specifically, it's a hybrid with a boxed frame in the rear and a removable bed.
Old Sep 18, 2014 | 04:50 PM
  #45490  
Wolf427's Avatar
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l I6
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Ran a compression test on my XJ today, really low compression on a couple of cylinders, 40PSI low. I did a wet test and it didn't change the numbers much, so I'm assuming its my valves. I remember when I took the head off, I could push tons of water through with just a garden hose.

Am I better off buying a new head, or doing a valve job?
Old Sep 18, 2014 | 04:53 PM
  #45491  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Wolf427
Ran a compression test on my XJ today, really low compression on a couple of cylinders, 40PSI low. I did a wet test and it didn't change the numbers much, so I'm assuming its my valves. I remember when I took the head off, I could push tons of water through with just a garden hose.

Am I better off buying a new head, or doing a valve job?
Get a price from a local machine shop.....
Old Sep 18, 2014 | 05:18 PM
  #45492  
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From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
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What bulb does the stock switches (defrost, aux lights, wiper) use? I want to put LEDs in them.
Old Sep 18, 2014 | 06:11 PM
  #45493  
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From: Kansas
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 190-hp, 4.0-liter I-6
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Fuel pressure test at idle. With the vacuum line still in was only about 34 psi which dropped when I hit the gas. Once unplugged my pressure was at a steady 40 psi. Thoughts?? I'm not sure what's the correct psi it should be at. Also how long should te pressure hold after engine is turned off?? It held above 30 for more than ten minutes. I then unplugged the gauge.

Last edited by Cherokeekid4x4; Sep 18, 2014 at 06:19 PM.
Old Sep 18, 2014 | 06:20 PM
  #45494  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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0 to 20 psi drop in fuel pressure after running/shut off/waiting 30 minutes.

31 at idle and 39 with vac line off for the first test.
Old Sep 18, 2014 | 06:22 PM
  #45495  
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From: Kansas
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 190-hp, 4.0-liter I-6
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
0 to 20 psi drop in fuel pressure after running/shut off/waiting 30 minutes. 31 at idle and 39 with vac line off for the first test.
Okay why are some 4.0s supposed to be at 49 psi +\- 5 psi? Mines a 94 if this makes a difference.



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