To my knowledge, the rockers don't have a 90° angler to attach to. Using angle iron, I'd worry about rusting forming from the inside out.

The 2x4 or 2x6 replacements seem pretty straightforward if you have a welder and an angle grinder, and they're proven effective. The process also removes all the cancer that might already be there.

 

Anyone got a fix for doors that lock themselves/get stuck locked and won't open/rear hatch repeatedly clunking? Lol...For real though is it the switch or one stuck lock throwing them all off or?

 

Not sure if what you're describing is the same but something similar happened to me. I'd stick my key in the lock, turn, and I'd hear a pop and the key would then move freely (making it useless) I'd have to go over the passenger side, then reach in and unlock it that way. Which would fix the problem for a while.

What I did was take the panel off, found the little mechanism in there and oiled it up with some 3in1, haven't had anymore problems.

 

If I had it done I'd cap off any gaps so it wouldn't rust. I've thought about the 2x4/6 box sliders and will do that, just a thought about the angle iron since i'm sure it would be easier to do.

 

Water tight welds are really tricky, and in your theoretical situation, not so fun. it would be much easier, and worth your time and effort to just do the 2x6.

 

hmm...Maybe I'll start by doing that. I thought it may have had something to do with the hatch due to the clunking noise, but I don't have the star-shaped screwdrivers to get the interior panel off. It seems almost like if the locks are stuck, the Jeep's brain tries to lock them again, doesn't realize they're locked, and tries again, so there's constant power from the lock motors pushing them towards lock...On the rare occasion when the button unlocks the doors, as soon as you let go and the switch goes back into a neutral position, the doors lock again. I have no idea if the jeep ever had keyless entry, but I only got one key with it and no remote...(It could have come with it...It is a classic)

 

That's really strange, I drive a 96 so I dont know, but does it do the thing where once you start to drive it locks the doors automatically?

If so, there is probably a sensor that could be causing problems. Other than that, check all your basic wiring and grounds. Do you know if it ever had an alarm? Also take the door panel off and make sure all the wire harnesses are seated well.

 

It didn't ever lock while driving in the past...It says "safeguard" in the rear door glass if that means anything? I don't have a remote for it, but it may have come with one from the factory...Not sure...I'll check the driver's side door. Eventually, after I get my suspension squared away ($$$), I would like to install a remote for the locks and/or remote start...This could be a problem with that haha

 

Question of the day. Who can name this part

 

Drum brake wheel cylinder.

 

nice! Since ABS upgrades a lot of people don't know it.

 

Hi there, I am new to this forum and would like to ask a question and hopefully someone may be able to help, I have a Jeep Cherokee 2.5td yr2000 that has a bad coolant leak, I fill up the coolant reservoir and it starts to drip from a small rubber pipe underneith on the front of the block, it's hanging down but stuck in place. As soon as I start the engine and move along it starts to pour from this pipe. I think it maybe the water pump gone but need some help on the matter. Many thanks in advance

 

Update-Messed around with the driver's side door panel, but no luck...Considering just snipping the power lock wires so that I at least have all 5 doors opening and closing whenever I want them too...I'd just rather not go that route...

Edit: May see if there's a fuse I can pull so I can keep my windows...Still looking for a solution for keeping my power locks, though'

Maybe my fuzzy-sounding door speaker is telling me of a bad ground...The speaker sometimes only works if you turn the volume all the way up and then back down...

 

95 zj little horseshoe on the kickdown cable broke, so basically the piece that connects to the throttle body.

I can figure out a way to rig it back together, but I'd rather replace the black plastic piece if possible.

So my question is... Can/how do you replace that piece.

 

Picture? I myself haven't ever seen the diesel motor.