Is there a way to test a fuel pressure regulator? Checked everything else in my fuel system

 

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum, and a new XJ owner as well. I have an '01 Limited 4.0L and it is one of my favorite things on the planet. As new as I am to owning a Jeep, I am equally new to working on cars myself. I have tried to find this on a forum somewhere, but I haven't really been able to find anything specific, so I thought I'd try it out here. I have noticed recently that, while idling, my engine lopes between 600 and 1000rpm. I have noticed that it only does it when the heat is turned on. I replaced the TPS and, though it did seem to make things a bit smoother while driving, it did not help the loping problem. I've been thinking about cleaning the throttle body, but wasn't sure if that would help. Any thoughts? Thanks!

- Logan

 

88 Xj with 35c rear. Which rear shoes would I have?

10x1.75 or 10x2.50?

Those numbers are from AutoZone app for my jeep.

 

The ignition cylinder won't let me turn it to lock or acc position. Why?

 

Yep clean the throttle body out. IAC is probably full of crud.

IIRC one of those widths is 9" drums on later years. You're going to have to get out and measure.

Assuming you have a key in it, have you tried holding down the little button just in front of it?

 

What button?

 

Can just the grease boot at the steering knuckle end of the drag link be replaced? Also, should it be easy to rotate the drag link up and down to where it can clunk on the knuckle under the boot? There is no slop or looseness in the joint, it is just really easy to pivot up and down, if that makes sense.

 

Does this look like iv got a big problem or normal wear? Jeep has 230k on it.

 

The button to take your key out when you have a stick shift, i think that's what he's talking about... Lol

 

Oh is that only on sticks? Hmmmmm.

Yes to both. You can replace the grease boot, however the challenge is getting the TRE out of the knuckle without damaging it. Instead of using a pickle fork there's a TRE remover that functions like a press. If your stuff is old though you may as well just replace it.

And yes the drag link will have a certain amount of movement normally, it's just rotating in place. The tie rod should too. The TREs afford a few degrees of motion.

Spiders don't look that great. Ring I can't really tell cuz the pic is too small/far away. There's certainly crap coating everything. Clean that mess up and get a closer pic

 

Thought so. How much you think that'd cost to have someone weld it in if I can't find a buddy to do it?

 

Depends a lot on the extent of the rot. That picture isn't just surface rust. I wouldn't be surprised if the rocker backing plate and floor above the frame rail is shot too.

 

Any coming back from this?

 

That's the gap between a Zone shackle and HD off road shackle relocation bracket. Should I just stick washers in there? Anyone else experience this?

 

My Clayton shackles are like that in the stock boxes. Clayton supplies 4 washers, one goes on each side of shackle.
edit: I would use fender washers for your application. Ideal size would be as big as the bushing and still fit the bolt size.