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Old Apr 13, 2014 | 06:27 PM
  #41836  
Hayden98XJ's Avatar
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Originally Posted by salad

lol well then... good job :P

The 3-pin connector is probably the oil pressure sending unit. The pin nearest your wrist in that photo (leftmost) should be +5V DC (orange wire), the rightmost pin in the photo should be a ground (brown/yellow wire). There is a slight chance it could be the camshaft position sensor which would have the middle pin as ground.

The two-pin may for the ignition coil. Alternatively if the loom is really long it may run down to the transmission's backup lamp switch (rightmost pin should be +12V with key in RUN, leftmost will feed power to the backup lamps) or the 4WD light on the transfer case if you have an NP231 (rightmost pin power from the PART-TIME light, leftmost ground).

The round 4-pin certainly looks like the upstream O2 sensor.

I'm just going off of the diagrams in my 1999 FSM so a few things may be different.
I think the 4-pin may be for the downstream O2 sensor? Because the upstream is already connected to the plug that comes out of the fuel rail harness. So could one of those plugs possibly go down to the speed sensor on the very rear of the transmission? Do you think you could post the picture of the engine bay wiring harness from your manual?
Old Apr 13, 2014 | 06:37 PM
  #41837  
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From: ks
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by 96XJSE2DR
Also did a VIP of crank sensor; bolts are tight bracket does not appear bent or out of shape. I did find a few shavings from starter gear in bottom of bell housing I vacuumed out. Is it possible there are metal shavings on sensor causing an issue? Reaching for straws.


Also the battery is low (left lights on while towing). Did try to jump from another car and with battery charger in 60amp start mode still no go.
Have cleared the code twice with scanner and unplugging battery and comes back after cranking a few times. No other codes are being reported.



Thanks for help very appreciated.
Check out this video from 7:00 on
If pin 2 (ground) is good, before you check the resistance of pin 1 (signal), I can look in alldata to see if the pcm connector layout for the 4.0 is the same as the guys 2.5 in the video.

EDIT: More information http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/jee...crank-sensor-1

Last edited by straightsixjeep; Apr 13, 2014 at 06:43 PM.
Old Apr 13, 2014 | 07:10 PM
  #41838  
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Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by Hayden98XJ
I think the 4-pin may be for the downstream O2 sensor? Because the upstream is already connected to the plug that comes out of the fuel rail harness. So could one of those plugs possibly go down to the speed sensor on the very rear of the transmission?
You'd have to tell me that lol. Did you unplug those? Will the wires reach? I can't see from here and I'm all out of abra cadabra.

Originally Posted by Hayden98XJ
Do you think you could post the picture of the engine bay wiring harness from your manual?
I would but it honestly won't do you any good. There isn't a diagram of the harness per se, it's a list of connectors by location. The rest I did by looking at connector pinouts and matching the shapes. The shape illustrated for the reverse light and Part Time light connectors is a closer match than the ignition coil.
Old Apr 13, 2014 | 07:13 PM
  #41839  
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Originally Posted by Gunmetal97
I have a feeling the answer to this is pretty obvious, but I'll ask anyway... In between the interior sun visors in my XJ (1997) there is a gray cover. Does my beloved Bernice have a tumor? What is it?
Interesting. You must have a very early production 1997 model (built in mid-late '96). That dome held the circuitry for the infrared-based remote keyless entry system found on '96 and earlier models. It's supposed to look like this:




'97+ uses an RF system that lives in the dome light.
Old Apr 13, 2014 | 07:17 PM
  #41840  
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Originally Posted by salad

Interesting. You must have a very early production 1997 model (built in mid-late '96). That dome held the circuitry for the infrared-based remote keyless entry system found on '96 and earlier models. It's supposed to look like this:

'97+ uses an RF system that lives in the dome light.
I have one of those too! Without the sensor though...
Old Apr 13, 2014 | 07:20 PM
  #41841  
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Year: 1997
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Originally Posted by salad
Interesting. You must have a very early production 1997 model (built in mid-late '96). That dome held the circuitry for the infrared-based remote keyless entry system found on '96 and earlier models. It's supposed to look like this:




'97+ uses an RF system that lives in the dome light.
According to the tag on the door jamb, the date of manufacture is March of 97. I'm not sure if she has keyless entry, as it only came with one key and no FOB. I know some of the higher optioned models (Tough to be higher optioned than Bernie: everything except leather and alloy wheels) had an OHC there that would probably cover that up...
Old Apr 13, 2014 | 07:32 PM
  #41842  
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Originally Posted by straightsixjeep
Check out this video from 7:00 on How-to: diagnose a P0320 (crankshaft position sensor circuit failure) - YouTube If pin 2 (ground) is good, before you check the resistance of pin 1 (signal), I can look in alldata to see if the pcm connector layout for the 4.0 is the same as the guys 2.5 in the video.

EDIT: More information http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/jee...crank-sensor-1

Wife helped and we went through every step in Vid and all readings are exactly what they should be.
That's crazy the jeep started Friday night twice with tranny not bolted up to block and now today with tranny bolted to block and cranking smooth and noise free; it does not start and throws code regarding Crank Pos. Sensor. Will pull the senor tomorrow and give it a closer look and if nothing comes out of VIP will have to suck it up and buy a sensor. Just hope that cures the issue.
Is there anything else that ever prevents a start and throws this same code? Thank you very much for the help.
Old Apr 13, 2014 | 07:56 PM
  #41843  
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Default 99 still overheating





I need help. I have a 99 xj limited. I have replaced all of the hoses, thermo, water pump, temp sensor, new fan clutch, electric fan, and shroud. Short of a new radiator, the whole system is new. I have done a good flush of the entire system. No leaks or blocks. It drives good most of the time, but on longer drives it overheats. It will run at normal temp, and then jump instantly up to 250. It sits at 250 for a bit and then goes back down to 215. The jumps in temp happen quick, it goes up in a matter of seconds. I thought it may be a short in the guage but today it jumped up and continued until it actually overheated. I tried a good burp on the system, but I have done that before and the short bursts of overheating continue. What gives?
Old Apr 13, 2014 | 08:01 PM
  #41844  
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Year: 2001
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Any tip on removing upper control arms, I stripped the lift and axles out of my parts jeep but the upper control arms didn't want to detach from the unibody, anybody got any tricks to help this
Old Apr 13, 2014 | 09:02 PM
  #41845  
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Originally Posted by Oh_SweetXJ
Any tip on removing upper control arms, I stripped the lift and axles out of my parts jeep but the upper control arms didn't want to detach from the unibody, anybody got any tricks to help this
stock or aftermarket?
Old Apr 13, 2014 | 09:16 PM
  #41846  
salad's Avatar
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Originally Posted by FruitSnacks
I have one of those too! Without the sensor though...
Originally Posted by Gunmetal97
According to the tag on the door jamb, the date of manufacture is March of 97. I'm not sure if she has keyless entry, as it only came with one key and no FOB. I know some of the higher optioned models (Tough to be higher optioned than Bernie: everything except leather and alloy wheels) had an OHC there that would probably cover that up...
Wacky... maybe they put the RF module in there before moving it under the dome light. I dunno, that '96-'97 stuff is weird lol

Originally Posted by Oh_SweetXJ
Any tip on removing upper control arms, I stripped the lift and axles out of my parts jeep but the upper control arms didn't want to detach from the unibody, anybody got any tricks to help this
Old Apr 13, 2014 | 09:24 PM
  #41847  
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On o2 sensors, is NTK prefered over Mopar? I can get a mopar for just a tad cheaper...
Old Apr 13, 2014 | 09:33 PM
  #41848  
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so now that the weather is beginning to get warmer and warmer my xj seems to be running over 210 pretty often, i popped open the radiator cap today and it didnt look so good, a friend told me to flush the radiator but i was thinking of just investing in a new radiator. could this solve my problem? if i was to get a new radiator is there a recommended one?
Old Apr 13, 2014 | 10:47 PM
  #41849  
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Originally Posted by drhoward1988
On o2 sensors, is NTK prefered over Mopar? I can get a mopar for just a tad cheaper...
NTK is the OE, and unless it's changed, Mopar O2 sensors are just rebadged. Get whichever's cheaper lol

Originally Posted by kevin96xx
so now that the weather is beginning to get warmer and warmer my xj seems to be running over 210 pretty often, i popped open the radiator cap today and it didnt look so good, a friend told me to flush the radiator but i was thinking of just investing in a new radiator. could this solve my problem? if i was to get a new radiator is there a recommended one?
Flushing is cheaper, if your cooling system is full of goo there's no reason to believe that the crud from the rest of it won't plug up your brand new radiator.

However, on an XJ with the hot 4.0L and undersized rad you can't waste money on cooling system maintenance. If you don't know when things were last replaced and it looks sketchy plan on doing the radiator, thermostat, fan clutch, and water pump. And flushing out the block and heater core.
Old Apr 13, 2014 | 11:52 PM
  #41850  
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Originally Posted by 96XJSE2DR
Wife helped and we went through every step in Vid and all readings are exactly what they should be.
That's crazy the jeep started Friday night twice with tranny not bolted up to block and now today with tranny bolted to block and cranking smooth and noise free; it does not start and throws code regarding Crank Pos. Sensor. Will pull the senor tomorrow and give it a closer look and if nothing comes out of VIP will have to suck it up and buy a sensor. Just hope that cures the issue.
Is there anything else that ever prevents a start and throws this same code? Thank you very much for the help.
When you measured resistance between terminals B and C, was the reading 0 ohms, or open/infinite?

Also try cycling the shifter back and forth then try starting it in neutral. The neutral safety switch is on the passenger side of the trans and is another thing that could of snagged.

Wouldn't hurt to look for a date sticker on the battery. If it had an old battery to start with, then after cranking it multiple times without starting, I'm sure it's at least weak at this point. A weak battery can cause all types of issues. Once you get the no start issue figured out, if the solution doesn't help the engine stalling when put in gear, that's the next issue to tackle.



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