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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 01:08 PM
  #40156  
SteveMongr's Avatar
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Just in case anyone is interested (not terribly likely on this forum), I found a nifty solution on a rat rod forum. One guy made a custom oil pan that doesn't hang down as low but extends farther forward to retain the same fluid capacity.
http://www.ratrodnation.com/forum/ra...pan-clearance/

Still looking for info on notching the axle.
There was a 'race jeep' in the COTM section a few months back. He cut and beveled the center of front axle.
Here is a link for more ideas for lowering.
http://bangshift.com/blog/the-humble...autocross.html
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 02:12 PM
  #40157  
LawDog9's Avatar
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From: Huntsville, Tn
Year: Different Years (I have several XJ's)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
There was a 'race jeep' in the COTM section a few months back. He cut and beveled the center of front axle. Here is a link for more ideas for lowering. http://bangshift.com/blog/the-humble...autocross.html
That's what we did.


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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 04:10 PM
  #40158  
NewKindOfClown's Avatar
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Thanks, guys. I'll read up on that. I'm also considering a tube dropped axle just for the uniqueness.
Old Feb 20, 2014 | 04:13 PM
  #40159  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Thanks, guys. I'll read up on that. I'm also considering a tube dropped axle just for the uniqueness.
Possible starting point here maybe. When you said that I remembered the style of front axle run on trucks. http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=148271
Old Feb 20, 2014 | 04:16 PM
  #40160  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by Bucky
It'd Be easier to show you I have several pictures. I've replaced the radiator and re ran some of the lines...Incorrectly... Hopefully picture I attached comes through.

I removed the coolant tank. Added a Heater control valve. Everything is the same pretty much except the lines. I added a 3 core radiator. I added a cap in the middle of the line that goes to the radiator. Bottom right you can see the cap. The cap on radiator at the top doesn't run to anything. Also there's an overflow bottle to the left of the block.

Below is a link to photobucket with several pictures of the setup in detail and in larger detail.

http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/bu...slideshow/Jeep
Hmmm. Okay. Where'd you get your information on how to plumb that? I'm not even sure where to begin other than "that ain't right"

Ditch the heater control valve. It's taking up space, a point of failure, and totally unnecessary. Probably why you have no heat.

The non-pressurized over flow bottle is supposed to be plumbed from a hose off of the filler neck on the LOW PRESSURE side of the radiator where the rad cap is. That strange T with cap in your hot water hose needs to go. It will not operate properly since that are is always under pressure from the water pump.

Do you have any junkyards nearby? If you're really visual and hands-on I recommend dropping by and looking at how the Chrysler XJs are set up.
Old Feb 20, 2014 | 05:41 PM
  #40161  
BayouXJ's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 138
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From: Alton, MO
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L V6
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I am needing to replace my ball joints soon. What do you guys recommend replacing while I'm doing the ball joints. Thank you.
Old Feb 20, 2014 | 05:50 PM
  #40162  
bhennessee1's Avatar
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From: Chickamauga Ga.
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by BayouXJ
I am needing to replace my ball joints soon. What do you guys recommend replacing while I'm doing the ball joints. Thank you.
axle u joints for sure, and tie rod ends if they have any play.
Old Feb 20, 2014 | 06:44 PM
  #40163  
my89xj's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 10,447
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From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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.

Last edited by my89xj; Feb 20, 2014 at 06:57 PM.
Old Feb 20, 2014 | 07:15 PM
  #40164  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by my89xj
.
I see your point
Old Feb 20, 2014 | 07:29 PM
  #40165  
SteveMongr's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by my89xj
.
I saw the period as a question mark... The answer is 18' coaxial cable. The 18 is supposed to be a magic number that matches the signal wave of the CB and optimizes performance. Others say hogwash to that.
Old Feb 20, 2014 | 07:31 PM
  #40166  
Bucky's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17
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From: Springfield, MO
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: |6
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Originally Posted by salad
Hmmm. Okay. Where'd you get your information on how to plumb that? I'm not even sure where to begin other than "that ain't right"

Ditch the heater control valve. It's taking up space, a point of failure, and totally unnecessary. Probably why you have no heat.

The non-pressurized over flow bottle is supposed to be plumbed from a hose off of the filler neck on the LOW PRESSURE side of the radiator where the rad cap is. That strange T with cap in your hot water hose needs to go. It will not operate properly since that are is always under pressure from the water pump.

Do you have any junkyards nearby? If you're really visual and hands-on I recommend dropping by and looking at how the Chrysler XJs are set up.

I got some of my information from this. I got diagrams for set up of the heater control valve somewhere.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/u...stions-391636/

I have the diagrams and everything and matched them to this guys and his worked mine didn't. Thanks for the input! I'll be playing around with it a little tomorrow.
Old Feb 20, 2014 | 07:33 PM
  #40167  
NewKindOfClown's Avatar
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr

I saw the period as a question mark... The answer is 18' coaxial cable. The 18 is supposed to be a magic number that matches the signal wave of the CB and optimizes performance. Others say hogwash to that.
Myth
Old Feb 20, 2014 | 08:35 PM
  #40168  
tuff99's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2012
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Model: Cherokee
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Please help leaking a lot of oil from what looks like the transmission bell housing only when running
Right next to one of the bolts it looks like there is a bent piece of metal and that's where it is coming from.
Any help would be appreciated
99 xj 4.0 automatic

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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 08:58 PM
  #40169  
my89xj's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch

I see your point
Ha
Originally Posted by SteveMongr

I saw the period as a question mark... The answer is 18' coaxial cable. The 18 is supposed to be a magic number that matches the signal wave of the CB and optimizes performance. Others say hogwash to that.
That's what Google said
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Myth
That's also what Google said.
Old Feb 20, 2014 | 09:01 PM
  #40170  
NewKindOfClown's Avatar
Moderator of Jeeps
 
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Firestik can say whatever they want to sell you 18ft, but math says they're full of ****.

http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/myth-1.htm



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