Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
Beach Bum
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,123
Likes: 22
From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Just in case anyone is interested (not terribly likely on this forum), I found a nifty solution on a rat rod forum. One guy made a custom oil pan that doesn't hang down as low but extends farther forward to retain the same fluid capacity.
http://www.ratrodnation.com/forum/ra...pan-clearance/
Still looking for info on notching the axle.
http://www.ratrodnation.com/forum/ra...pan-clearance/
Still looking for info on notching the axle.
Here is a link for more ideas for lowering.
http://bangshift.com/blog/the-humble...autocross.html
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 638
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville, Tn
Year: Different Years (I have several XJ's)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
There was a 'race jeep' in the COTM section a few months back. He cut and beveled the center of front axle. Here is a link for more ideas for lowering. http://bangshift.com/blog/the-humble...autocross.html
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
It'd Be easier to show you I have several pictures. I've replaced the radiator and re ran some of the lines...Incorrectly... Hopefully picture I attached comes through.
I removed the coolant tank. Added a Heater control valve. Everything is the same pretty much except the lines. I added a 3 core radiator. I added a cap in the middle of the line that goes to the radiator. Bottom right you can see the cap. The cap on radiator at the top doesn't run to anything. Also there's an overflow bottle to the left of the block.
Below is a link to photobucket with several pictures of the setup in detail and in larger detail.
http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/bu...slideshow/Jeep
I removed the coolant tank. Added a Heater control valve. Everything is the same pretty much except the lines. I added a 3 core radiator. I added a cap in the middle of the line that goes to the radiator. Bottom right you can see the cap. The cap on radiator at the top doesn't run to anything. Also there's an overflow bottle to the left of the block.
Below is a link to photobucket with several pictures of the setup in detail and in larger detail.
http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/bu...slideshow/Jeep
Ditch the heater control valve. It's taking up space, a point of failure, and totally unnecessary. Probably why you have no heat.
The non-pressurized over flow bottle is supposed to be plumbed from a hose off of the filler neck on the LOW PRESSURE side of the radiator where the rad cap is. That strange T with cap in your hot water hose needs to go. It will not operate properly since that are is always under pressure from the water pump.
Do you have any junkyards nearby? If you're really visual and hands-on I recommend dropping by and looking at how the Chrysler XJs are set up.
CF Veteran

Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,493
Likes: 0
From: Chickamauga Ga.
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Beach Bum
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,123
Likes: 22
From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, MO
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: |6
Hmmm. Okay. Where'd you get your information on how to plumb that? I'm not even sure where to begin other than "that ain't right"
Ditch the heater control valve. It's taking up space, a point of failure, and totally unnecessary. Probably why you have no heat.
The non-pressurized over flow bottle is supposed to be plumbed from a hose off of the filler neck on the LOW PRESSURE side of the radiator where the rad cap is. That strange T with cap in your hot water hose needs to go. It will not operate properly since that are is always under pressure from the water pump.
Do you have any junkyards nearby? If you're really visual and hands-on I recommend dropping by and looking at how the Chrysler XJs are set up.
Ditch the heater control valve. It's taking up space, a point of failure, and totally unnecessary. Probably why you have no heat.
The non-pressurized over flow bottle is supposed to be plumbed from a hose off of the filler neck on the LOW PRESSURE side of the radiator where the rad cap is. That strange T with cap in your hot water hose needs to go. It will not operate properly since that are is always under pressure from the water pump.
Do you have any junkyards nearby? If you're really visual and hands-on I recommend dropping by and looking at how the Chrysler XJs are set up.
I got some of my information from this. I got diagrams for set up of the heater control valve somewhere.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/u...stions-391636/
I have the diagrams and everything and matched them to this guys and his worked mine didn't. Thanks for the input! I'll be playing around with it a little tomorrow.
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 10,447
Likes: 0
From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ha
That's what Google said
That's also what Google said.
That's also what Google said.
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Firestik can say whatever they want to sell you 18ft, but math says they're full of ****.
http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/myth-1.htm
http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/myth-1.htm








