Dropped the steering column on my '89 to change the ignition switch. There was another rod-actuated switch mounted on the same bolt studs... when I removed the ignition switch, the rod on the other switch seems to just flop around. The rod with slop aligns with my turn signal module, I've tried getting the thing to mate back up with no success.

Do I need to pull the wheel & plate to get this rod re-connected to the turn signal arm? I've already got the ignition switch replaced, just don't want to button everything back up again if I need at the lower part of the column again.

 

Lmao That's cool. You're the one looking stupid to everyone on a phone lol

 

27 spline C8.25 and D35 are fine on 31s. You can even lock 'em on 31s if you don't go insane with the skinny pedal.

I wouldn't waste my time or money on 3.73:1s. If they fell into my lap sure. 3.55:1 is an excellent ratio with a stick and 31s, easier starts, a little lower crawl, and very useable on the highway. Not to mention dirt cheap - I got a non-disco HP D30 for free. Mind you, it needed new everything outside of the diff, but it was free lol.

 

Awesome, that's what I needed to know, going to trade 5 rims for the two axles I hope.

Going to order parts for the axle swap, am I forgetting anything?

Front hubs
Ball joints
Brake hoses
Pads and rotors
New gear oil

Rear gets axle seals
Gear oil
Shoes, cylinders, and hardware

 

95 4.0 zj it seems like every time I pop the hood my tranny dipstick is out like 2in. I don't understand is there a breather that's just clogged up?

 

How's the fluid level? There is a breather that comes up beside the dipstick IIRC

 

Fluid was fine last time I checked. I'm guilty for not really investigating the issue, was wondering if anyone might be an issue. I know the aw4 has a breather so I would assume this one would as well.

 

Price for a clean used set of 15x10 soft 8's, I have 5 of them and need to know what they go for used

 

dimmer switch.

 

Probably a dumb question, but I've been hearing recently horror stories about Engine mount bolts shearing off and causing major havoc on the XJs...is this phenomenon specific to certain years?(seemed like 95-96 was most common), or is it simply a design issue with the XJ platform?

 

Not a dumb question at all, but it happened back in 91 and 92, before I left the dealership, when the HOs first came out. After that, I don't know.

Read the following. Easy to take care of before it happens.


From Jon Kelley aka 5-90 @ www.kelleyswip.com



This is a known issue.

1) Unless you're going to get silly with the skinny pedal, 2xSAE8 screws on one side won't be a huge problem. You'd be better off with three, but if you don't get silly you'll be okeh.

2) The Brown Dog engine mounts use two or three additional holes on each side, and spread the mount/clamping force over more of the block. This is invariably a good idea, and I'll probably be doing it as I refit my 88.

3) The primary reason that the screws snap is because, sometimes, the screw holes in the block aren't drilled & tapped deeply enough. This causes the screw to bottom out in the hole, so you end up torquing against the bottom of the hole instead of stretching the screw (as you're supposed to do. Not your fault - you aren't doing anything wrong.) The screw is not stretched properly, and the head is not butted up against the bracket, so there's some room to move there. Vibration then causes wear cycles on the screw, which generally leads to rupture.

The easy/cheap fix? When you replace the screws (3/8"-16x1.25", as I recall,) put two flat washers under the head before you screw it into the hole.

The check? Take a feeler gage (.003" to .005") and try to slide it under the head of the screw. You'll be able to get under the corners (look at the hex head, and you'll see that the surfaces curve toward each other slightly) if it's a standard hex head - if it's a flanged hex head, you should not be able to get under the head anywhere. If you can slip the gage under the head, you have a problem. If you can touch the shank of the screw, you have a big problem!

In no case should you reuse the screws after you take them out - they'll be stressed under the head, and you'll have a significant reduction in strength. Replace them outright, putting washers under the head as I mentioned before. The washers will make up for the slight lack of depth in the hole (two of them will be about 0.125" or so,) and allow the screw to be preloaded properly.

 

I wouldn't pay over 125 for them

 

doesn anyone knows where i can see a picture of the original carpet floor mats from jeep cherokee from 97 to 00 ? I would like to buy the original mats however i never saw and i dont know how they look like , i checked in ebay but there are so many diferents and almost all to grand cherokee and even that i dont beliveble they are original . thankx

 

has anybody elses rear window on the hatch ever shattered because of the cold?

 

I have a 93 Cherokee sport 4.0 manual transmission. I bought the vehicle like this thinking I could troubleshoot but I cant figure it out. Runs great in neutral no problem at all but when I put into first gear and let out the clutch it starts to sputter as if i was feathering the clutch with no gas. As soon as I press the clutch again engine goes back to normal. I have changed the CPS already and no fix. Fuel pressure is fine, ran fuel system cleaner no change, Yesterday it was doing it again and I decided to cycle through 4h and 2wd and it fixed the problem. It only does this in 2wd intermittently. Any help would be appreciated thanks