Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 638
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville, Tn
Year: Different Years (I have several XJ's)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
My '89 XJ has gas in the oil..
So I was gifted a 1989 4.0 XJ, and I was told it gets gasoline in the oil. I have not tested either the injectors or the compression yet.
The body is in pristine condition, it only has 168k miles.
IF the piston rings are bad, I am going to go ahead and overhaul the entire engine, which won't exactly be cheap.
I found a kit that includes all I need for around $320, but then I have to factor in the cost of having the head + block machined for the head gasket + rings.
I also found a running engine out of a 1996 XJ with around 120k miles for $500, it was taken from a jeep with rear-end damage.
I was told that the wiring harness is different, but I suspect that the engine would bolt up fine. Could I take the intake manifold off the stock engine and slap it on the '96 engine? what other wiring would I have to deal with?
The body is in pristine condition, it only has 168k miles.
IF the piston rings are bad, I am going to go ahead and overhaul the entire engine, which won't exactly be cheap.
I found a kit that includes all I need for around $320, but then I have to factor in the cost of having the head + block machined for the head gasket + rings.
I also found a running engine out of a 1996 XJ with around 120k miles for $500, it was taken from a jeep with rear-end damage.
I was told that the wiring harness is different, but I suspect that the engine would bolt up fine. Could I take the intake manifold off the stock engine and slap it on the '96 engine? what other wiring would I have to deal with?
Last edited by Jeepnub101; Feb 2, 2014 at 09:21 PM.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: Muncie, Indiana
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,867
Likes: 16
From: Fauquier County, Virginia
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: Muncie, Indiana
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
So I was gifted a 1989 4.0 XJ, and I was told it gets gasoline in the oil. I have not tested either the injectors or the compression yet.
The body is in pristine condition, it only has 168k miles.
IF the piston rings are bad, I am going to go ahead and overhaul the entire engine, which won't exactly be cheap.
I found a kit that includes all I need for around $320, but then I have to factor in the cost of having the head + block machined for the head gasket + rings.
I also found a running engine out of a 1996 XJ with around 120k miles for $500, it was taken from a jeep with rear-end damage.
I was told that the wiring harness is different, but I suspect that the engine would bolt up fine. Could I take the intake manifold off the stock engine and slap it on the '96 engine? what other wiring would I have to deal with?
The body is in pristine condition, it only has 168k miles.
IF the piston rings are bad, I am going to go ahead and overhaul the entire engine, which won't exactly be cheap.
I found a kit that includes all I need for around $320, but then I have to factor in the cost of having the head + block machined for the head gasket + rings.
I also found a running engine out of a 1996 XJ with around 120k miles for $500, it was taken from a jeep with rear-end damage.
I was told that the wiring harness is different, but I suspect that the engine would bolt up fine. Could I take the intake manifold off the stock engine and slap it on the '96 engine? what other wiring would I have to deal with?
For what it's worth NTK and NGK are the same company.
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
I'm going to test both, weather has been a limiting factor lately.
This is just a "what if" kind of thing. What would be recommended? Buying and installing the newer engine, or rebuilding the existing one? Cost would approximately the same.
This is just a "what if" kind of thing. What would be recommended? Buying and installing the newer engine, or rebuilding the existing one? Cost would approximately the same.
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Well, an '87 to '96 4.0L long block will swap without almost any effort.
Originally Posted by cruiser54
Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: BC Canada
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 638
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville, Tn
Year: Different Years (I have several XJ's)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 19,219
Likes: 45
From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0