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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 10:33 AM
  #37741  
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Originally Posted by salad
SPST On/On type switch with three connectors is sufficient. Middle to your reverse lights, one side to the NSS output, one side to your fused battery feed. You'll need to splice somewhere into the body harness or maybe transmission harness.
Wouldn't i just have the switch go between the nss out wire and break it there. And the other wire to the battery or relay. Where does the harness run for the NSS out. Can't i catch it by the lights

Last edited by sycoglitch; Dec 5, 2013 at 11:20 AM.
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 11:45 AM
  #37742  
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Originally Posted by salad
Yep. For best performance and corrosion protection use electrical grease on the actual pins. Gardner Bender OX-GARD and Ideal's NOALOX do this, find them in the electrical section at Home Depot or Lowe's. Careful with this stuff as it CAN short things out. Then run a bead of dielectric grease around the outside to keep water and crap out. Dielectric grease is like a caulking that never dries.
Noalox isn't dielectric grease, it's conductive -grease with metal powder mixed in, meant mostly for aluminum wiring connections. You can use it if you're careful as mentioned by Salad, but silicone grease (the translucent stuff) is better for inside connectors... We use that on X-ray cable connectors good for 150kV, GE sells it under several different names, and I believe the stuff sold for brake hardware is pretty much the same.
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 11:54 AM
  #37743  
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Originally Posted by rayos-x

Noalox isn't dielectric grease, it's conductive -grease with metal powder mixed in, meant mostly for aluminum wiring connections. You can use it if you're careful as mentioned by Salad, but silicone grease (the translucent stuff) is better for inside connectors... We use that on X-ray cable connectors good for 150kV, GE sells it under several different names, and I believe the stuff sold for brake hardware is pretty much the same.
Reread his post, a little more carefully this time
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 11:54 AM
  #37744  
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I have a little bit left over from when I did my spark plugs, I will probably use that. Thanks! I will read more into it.
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 01:27 PM
  #37745  
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Originally Posted by rayos-x
Noalox isn't dielectric grease, it's conductive -grease with metal powder mixed in, meant mostly for aluminum wiring connections. You can use it if you're careful as mentioned by Salad, but silicone grease (the translucent stuff) is better for inside connectors... We use that on X-ray cable connectors good for 150kV, GE sells it under several different names, and I believe the stuff sold for brake hardware is pretty much the same.
Yes, I use electric greases on all of my telco power connections in central offices and remotes, my Jeep, and we use it on all RF connectors out in wireless land.

Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Reread his post, a little more carefully this time
lol

Originally Posted by kgm
I have a little bit left over from when I did my spark plugs, I will probably use that. Thanks! I will read more into it.
There are a pile of other products you can use, I mentioned OX-GARD and NOALOX because they're easier to get. You may work in one of many industries that has this stuff lying around and not know it... giant list of alternatives here: http://www.k1ttt.net/technote/antiox.html
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 02:50 PM
  #37746  
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Originally Posted by salad
SPST On/On type switch with three connectors is sufficient. Middle to your reverse lights, one side to the NSS output, one side to your fused battery feed. You'll need to splice somewhere into the body harness or maybe transmission harness.
Two question s for you cause i can't find a wiring diagram. On the main plug for the NSS,what color goes to reverse lights. And that's the one that i would put across two terminals and the third terminal goes to battery.
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 03:24 PM
  #37747  
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Two question s for you cause i can't find a wiring diagram. On the main plug for the NSS,what color goes to reverse lights. And that's the one that i would put across two terminals and the third terminal goes to battery.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 03:30 PM
  #37748  
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Originally Posted by CCKen
This is perfect. Now to get my wires and switch
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 05:00 PM
  #37749  
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
This is perfect. Now to get my wires and switch
I just read this in your signature.

"Part of owning a Jeep, knowing that when you fix one thing, something else will break~~"

Think about what you are doing...
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 05:15 PM
  #37750  
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Originally Posted by CCKen

I just read this in your signature.

"Part of owning a Jeep, knowing that when you fix one thing, something else will break~~"

Think about what you are doing...
If i thought about anything when it came to my jeep, i would still be stock and alone. Well that or driving a Honda
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 09:44 PM
  #37751  
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Originally Posted by askingxforxit
Where can I find some California legal replacement pre cats for my '00 xj ??? Can't seem to find a decent price. Bank two keeps throwing a catalyst efficiency code.

You might check Rockauto.com. Also check out 4 Wheel Parts, they sell a CA legal MagnaFlow Cat. I think they are around $200. I bought a MagnaFlow for my 88 Cherokee (CA) and have no problems with it getting smog. Good luck.
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 03:32 PM
  #37752  
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Can someone with a full gauge cluster help me out?

I picked up the coolant temp sensor (the one on the back of the block, driver's side) from NAPA. It's got 2 prongs inside of it. I need a 9/16" deep socket to put it in. I bought the socket, then went to remove the old sensor. It only has 1 prong, since it's for a dummy cluster. But the weird thing (at least in my mind) is that it's not 9/16". It's 13mm. I don't want to throw the new sensor in if it's just going to be the wrong one and I'm going to have to take it back.

96 4.0
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 04:05 PM
  #37753  
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I'm installing a spartan mechanical locker in my Dana 30 on my 99 4.0
What type if diff fluid should I use? Do I need a gasket?
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 04:08 PM
  #37754  
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75w90 API GL-5. Either a Lube Locker gasket or just use Ultra Black or The Right Stuff RTV
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 06:11 PM
  #37755  
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Originally Posted by tssguy123
Can someone with a full gauge cluster help me out? I picked up the coolant temp sensor (the one on the back of the block, driver's side) from NAPA. It's got 2 prongs inside of it. I need a 9/16" deep socket to put it in. I bought the socket, then went to remove the old sensor. It only has 1 prong, since it's for a dummy cluster. But the weird thing (at least in my mind) is that it's not 9/16". It's 13mm. I don't want to throw the new sensor in if it's just going to be the wrong one and I'm going to have to take it back. 96 4.0
It sound like they gave you the sensor that goes on the water outlet at the front of the engine. My 89 with the full cluster has the one prong at the back.



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