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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: The 219
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
NO you don't need one but it would be a heck of a lot easier, what I did was using an old socket that fit the D30 u joint and a mini sledge and pounded them out, took a while but was cheaper than takin it somewhere.
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Don't even need a shop press. There's a U joint & ball joint specific press you can rent/loan or pick up for I think $40 at Harbor Freight (that's what I've read anyway, no HF around here...). Super easy unless you're a moron like me.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
They're a pain in the *** the first time you do it. It's like a puzzle. You have to put it together without letting any of the needle bearings move around.
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: Ky
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I deliver mail. I have a right hand drive Jeep Cherokee Sport. It does good as long as I'm driving. But I have to stop a lot (at about 150 boxes a day). Anyway, it was doing fine until a couple days ago (seems to be an intermittent problem - I've had the problem before but it seems to work itself out). And it started out ok today but shortly after I started delivering, it started having problems and kept it up all day. I stop at a box, begin to take off and no power, it kind of revs and starts off really sluggish and it will eventually get up to speed but still kind of feels like it is bogged down. Doing it that way, it would take me all day to deliver my route. So, at every stop, I shift to 1st...it takes right off in 1st gear and then once it gets going, I shift up to drive (very tedious doing this at every mail box) but like I said, even doing it this way, it still feels kind of bogged down in drive. Anyway, if anyone has any suggestions, I would really appreciate your input. I checked the transmission fluid, it is at the "add" mark, so I will add fluid and see if that helps any. I read another blog where they suggested checking the inline fuse to the TCU unit (?)
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
When you say first two. Which two. One before and one after the first cat. Or 2 before and none after. Be specific cause there were late model jeeps that only had 2. I believe these were non California compliant jeeps
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I was under the impression all '01s were Cali-spec, but I may be wrong. Bolts in the holes doesn't sound factory.
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
If you have the exhaust manifold that has the little miniature catalytic converters, yes, you must have one upstream and one downstream of EACH converter. The 2000 "Federal Emissions" model had the same configuration as previous years with a single O2 sensor in the downpipe and one behind the big catalytic converter, with no pre-cats at all.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: latham ny
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yeah i have the 2 off of the manifold but theres just bolts before and after the cat i dont even see any wires where they would have plugged in. but its not like im getting a code or anything from it
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 8,272
Likes: 1
From: Baltimore, MD
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO