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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
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Year: 1998, 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
to remove emergency brake cables from rear axle, do i have to take apart all of the springs etc inside the drum? or where the single cable "splits" and becomes two? removing axle from jeep to work on it, want to take apart as little as i have to.
edit:
nevermind, found this link https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ removing-e-brake-lines-118301/ so i'll just take apart the drums
edit:
nevermind, found this link https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ removing-e-brake-lines-118301/ so i'll just take apart the drums
Last edited by T1XJ; 06-08-2013 at 09:53 AM.
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: lake city,florida
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My 93 4.0 with AW4 stumbles when cold as soon as I touch the gas, after she's warm everything seems fine and always idles good, even cold. Just a PITA the first few stops on way to work in mornings.
It just started to do this Wednesday, so far I have cleaned the TB,TPS, and just cleaned the IAT. Haven't been able to test it yet cold with the clean IAT, who knows, might be fixed. But any other suggestion to try?
It just started to do this Wednesday, so far I have cleaned the TB,TPS, and just cleaned the IAT. Haven't been able to test it yet cold with the clean IAT, who knows, might be fixed. But any other suggestion to try?
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
My 93 4.0 with AW4 stumbles when cold as soon as I touch the gas, after she's warm everything seems fine and always idles good, even cold. Just a PITA the first few stops on way to work in mornings.
It just started to do this Wednesday, so far I have cleaned the TB,TPS, and just cleaned the IAT. Haven't been able to test it yet cold with the clean IAT, who knows, might be fixed. But any other suggestion to try?
It just started to do this Wednesday, so far I have cleaned the TB,TPS, and just cleaned the IAT. Haven't been able to test it yet cold with the clean IAT, who knows, might be fixed. But any other suggestion to try?
Junior Member
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Location: lake city,florida
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks NKC, will be my next test in morning if the IAT cleaning did nothing. Didn't even think about that having anything to do with cold running.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: New Jersey
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 HO
I got my L&L winch bumper in! I'm going to grab hardware today to install...
Anyone have a hardeare list on hand? Save me a little work
Anyone have a hardeare list on hand? Save me a little work
Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: CT
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Anyone have a link for a chart of sorts for setting drill speeds for particular size holes..I keep destroying bits..and havent been able to find one
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
(slow enough so you get metal shavings)
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: latham ny
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Greensboro NC
Posts: 157
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
CF Veteran
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Location: Rochester
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Glendale,Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
Does anyone have experience with the full remand heads from Oriellys or autozone? I'm debating on buying on vs having to wait for mine at a shop to get done when I do the head gasket.
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Okay so I'm still working on these U-joints in my D30 (yeah I work slow. Rain + on pager + other crap to do)
After playing with bending the ears I've gotten to this point: As soon as the caps on these brand new Moog 371s (same as what came out, incidentally) are pushed in far enough so that the C-clips will fit in the channels, they bind up. If I press them out a little tiny bit, so that about half of the one channel is covered, they move like I expect them to. I'm assuming they're manufactured properly. I've been putting grease in as I go as I keep taking these things apart to fit them. I'm having the same problem on both the passenger and driver side shafts, tried both squeezing and spreading the yoke ears (verified with a caliper). Can too much grease cause this? Maybe it's the paint I put on? Didn't seem like much. I'm annoyed enough I'm considering grinding away the necessary metal to get the clips in.
Typical lucky me
After playing with bending the ears I've gotten to this point: As soon as the caps on these brand new Moog 371s (same as what came out, incidentally) are pushed in far enough so that the C-clips will fit in the channels, they bind up. If I press them out a little tiny bit, so that about half of the one channel is covered, they move like I expect them to. I'm assuming they're manufactured properly. I've been putting grease in as I go as I keep taking these things apart to fit them. I'm having the same problem on both the passenger and driver side shafts, tried both squeezing and spreading the yoke ears (verified with a caliper). Can too much grease cause this? Maybe it's the paint I put on? Didn't seem like much. I'm annoyed enough I'm considering grinding away the necessary metal to get the clips in.
Typical lucky me