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Old May 12, 2013 | 09:54 PM
  #30556  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by ThatPurpleXJ
So I'm going to be buying a junkyard engine pretty soon and I'm going to go ahead and replace some things on it. I was thinking VC, oil filter, rms and head gasket. Water pump, thermostat and timing chain. What else do you think? Bearings? Lifters? I'd just like to eliminate somethings that often fail.
I take it you've already included timing cover and oil pan gaskets.

Since you're taking the head off do lifters and pushrods at the least, I might throw in valves, springs, and rockers if I could afford it.
Old May 12, 2013 | 10:05 PM
  #30557  
odgreen's Avatar
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From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by my89xj

He said that Jack
Dam. Overlooked the rms.
Old May 12, 2013 | 10:29 PM
  #30558  
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From: Canton, GA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Jeep is taking a bit longer than usual to start. Usually starts after less than a second but it's been taking 2-3 seconds to crank.. only when I first start it. After that, I can turn it off and right back on really quickly. This means the battery is on its way out the door, right?
Old May 12, 2013 | 10:39 PM
  #30559  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by tssguy123
Jeep is taking a bit longer than usual to start. Usually starts after less than a second but it's been taking 2-3 seconds to crank.. only when I first start it. After that, I can turn it off and right back on really quickly. This means the battery is on its way out the door, right?
Your battery does not charge instantly lol. Do this:

RUN (3s)
OFF
RUN (3s)
OFF
RUN (3s)
START

If it fires right up you can either keep doing that or drop the tank and replace the fuel check valve.
Old May 12, 2013 | 10:58 PM
  #30560  
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From: Canton, GA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by salad
Your battery does not charge instantly lol. Do this:

RUN (3s)
OFF
RUN (3s)
OFF
RUN (3s)
START

If it fires right up you can either keep doing that or drop the tank and replace the fuel check valve.
I worded that wrong.. but I'll try that tomorrow morning.
Old May 12, 2013 | 11:02 PM
  #30561  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by ThatPurpleXJ
So I'm going to be buying a junkyard engine pretty soon and I'm going to go ahead and replace some things on it. I was thinking VC, oil filter, rms and head gasket. Water pump, thermostat and timing chain. What else do you think? Bearings? Lifters? I'd just like to eliminate somethings that often fail.
****ing freeze plugs. Do it now or you'll hate yourself later.

And don't go cheap. Bust out your big boy card and buy the ones that aren't 80¢/pack. It'll cost a whole $5 or so.
Old May 13, 2013 | 04:35 AM
  #30562  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

****ing freeze plugs. Do it now or you'll hate yourself later.

And don't go cheap. Bust out your big boy card and buy the ones that aren't 80¢/pack. It'll cost a whole $5 or so.
damn clown, good way to be specific. Least they should know you talk from experience about it
Old May 13, 2013 | 07:34 AM
  #30563  
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Do I need a new carrier if im going from 3.73 to a 3. 55 on a d30 ...... 95 xj 4x4 4.0 inline 6 on 32s 4inch lift
Old May 13, 2013 | 07:35 AM
  #30564  
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Year: '99 and '91
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Yea ,but why would you go from 373 to 355 ?
Old May 13, 2013 | 07:44 AM
  #30565  
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Because the **** stick I bought it from has 3.55 in front and 3.73 in rear just trying to find cheapest way to fix but still strong enough for a little wheeling. Its my daily driver also any suggestions
Old May 13, 2013 | 07:50 AM
  #30566  
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Year: '99 and '91
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I'd just get a rear with 3.55s (super easy to find and that would get you rolling in 4wd) unless you get lucky and find a d30 with 3.73s. They're out there.
Old May 13, 2013 | 07:54 AM
  #30567  
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Front has 3.73 rear has 3.55..... so which is better 3.55 or 3.73
Old May 13, 2013 | 07:57 AM
  #30568  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Boliaris
Front has 3.73 rear has 3.55..... so which is better 3.55 or 3.73
You're going to waste money gearing the the 3.55 to 3.73.

Just find an axle that already has 3.55 to match the one you have (Much easier to find.)
Old May 13, 2013 | 07:59 AM
  #30569  
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3.73 is better lower gear helps move the tires easier (I'm assuming you're lifted with some bigger tires)

If its for the rear another option is to swap in am 8.8 they're pretty common with 3.73s but that involves welding o. New leaf perches and shock mounts.
Old May 13, 2013 | 08:21 AM
  #30570  
ThatPurpleXJ's Avatar
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From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by salad
I take it you've already included timing cover and oil pan gaskets.

Since you're taking the head off do lifters and pushrods at the least, I might throw in valves, springs, and rockers if I could afford it.
Yup timing cover and oil pan as well, water pump and thermostat housing gasket too.

I'll definitely do push rods and lifters and valves etc if I've got enough, maybe bearings. Trying to keep the engine under $500 or so with the actual long block being $175 at the jy.




Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
****ing freeze plugs. Do it now or you'll hate yourself later.

And don't go cheap. Bust out your big boy card and buy the ones that aren't 80¢/pack. It'll cost a whole $5 or so.
Completely forgot about those, what brand did you go with?



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