It is posts like this that keep me coming back to this site. Thanks for the great information.

 

[QUOTE=dukie564;840393]Sounds like you have a bad drag link bushing, either at the pitman arm or at the wheel. Could also be the trackbar bushings. Verify for sure by having someone turn the wheel left and right while you sit in front and watch (engine on).

a) truck body moves side to side before the tires turn = bad trackbar bushing(s)
b) pitman arm rotates before the tires turn = bad drag link bushing(s)
c) One tire turns before the other = bad tie rod end bushing(s)
d) steering wheel turns a lot before the pitman arm rotates = bad steering box, low power steering fluid, power steering leak

[IMG]

thank you very much for this, thx to you I found out my tie rods are shot, picked up new ones, will install after class... Best part they were free woot

 

Hi everybody just picked up a 1997 cherokee sport 4x4 and the check engine light came on. I checked the codes and i got 14 42 and 51. Now i know what 14 and 51 are but im not sure where to start with 42. It says its a problem with the circuit or asd relay. So far no problems with starting or anything electrical like ive read about. It does run rough sometimes but i contributed that to 14 or 51 cause there sensors. So can anybody help me out or fill me in with the steps i should take.

 

Those codes don't make sense if it's a 1997. 1997 is OBD-II - codes should be in the form p####. How did you retrieve the codes?

Go to your local auto parts store and have them plug the reader in to get the codes.

 

Dukie, I swear you have one heck of a memory to rattle these answers off. Since i'm not in the cool guy club (code checker)...LOL! What would be one of the better code checkers to get? I want something that will last on off road trips and not fall apart after a few uses.

 

Actron makes great code scanners. However if you want a code checker that reads "enhanced" (manufacturer specific) DTCs as well as the generic, expect to pay at least $130 for a good model.

Cheapest Actron i could find that does this is the CP9180.
http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9180-.../dp/B000KG8KB0

 

Put new throttle body on jeep. Tried to change TPS have 4 of them each have a number in the middle a Number 2 is on the jeep the problem i am having is that when i have the jeep in park or neutral it is idling at 2,000 RPM when in D at 1,000 Can anyone let me know any suggestions. also there was a vacuum line disconnected from the top of the intake manifold when connected is when the jeep goes crazy with this line disconnected the jeep smokes black and gas mileage drop like a brick from and airplane

 

first reconnect the vacuum line.

second with any sort of mod like this you need to reset the PCM back to factory a/f trim settings:


Disconnect battery terminals and touch together for 30 seconds. (This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory.)
Reconnect the Battery Cables.
Turn Ignition Switch to the “On” position but DO NOT start the engine.
Turn Headlight “On”
Turn Headlights “Off”
Turn Ignition Key “Off”

The PCM Adaptive memory has now been flashed, or erased from the PCM.

When you start the engine it will be running off a set of pre-programmed tables that come with the PCM from the factory.

When you get the engine up to operating temperature the PCM will start to collect data for the “Adaptive Memory”.

The PCM will collect data for Adaptive Memory for the first 50 Warm-up Cycles.

 

Thanks Dukie i am going to lunch in few and will go try this i hope it works p.s. what is normal Idel RPM for a 91 4.oL H.O. do you know??? Thank you very much for your help!!!!

 

800rpm

note it may take time for it to adjust so results may not be immediately apparent

 

I have 4 different tps's tried all four resetting cps every time no change Maybe IAC??? Still the same after warming up run at 1900-2000 When warm in P

 

either that or you have a vacuum leak

 

Will be changing IAC this afternoon will know then!!!

 

my fuel pump runs continuously. its a renix 4 banger

went thru the whole test procedure as outline in the FSM/renix manual. i'm getting more than 1 volt,at the ecu, so the next step says if the fuel pump runs continuously to check the relay and associated wire harness.


but from my understanding, the relay is bypassed during startup, as is the ballast resistor. correct? ive been looking around and searching and finding conflicting thoughts about this.

i removed the relay completely and it still started up fine and ran continuously. so what else could be causing the permanent ground to the computer? maybe the wires at the pump itself are mixed up?

i didn't bother testing the ballast resistor cuz everything said it gets bypassed, and i'm not too sure where it is anyways.

 

For anyone that has done an 8.8 swap, could you throw up a list of parts that I will need? Also I don't know if we will have to modify my brake system (proportioning valve, master cylinder etc. ) My original plumbing comes from D35 w/ ABS, later swapped in an 8.25. All ABS plumbing is still there but inoperable of course. The new axle has disk brakes & already geared to my ratio. Spiders welded & will remain so for a little while.
Thx