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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 07:13 PM
  #29806  
JeepsAreForSpeed's Avatar
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From: Pa
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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the plugs i have been using in my 1994 are the stock champion rc12lyc. with 8000 miles on the plugs they are starting to turn white and pit a little(too hot i believe). Would using the champion rc9yc from the older 4.0s be a good alternative or is that too cold? Jeep does have a bunch of air, exhaust, and fuel mods but it's still naturally aspirated.
Old Apr 29, 2013 | 07:19 PM
  #29807  
salad's Avatar
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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When was the upstream O2 last replaced? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? If you're having trouble with the spark plugs called out for on the emissions sticker on the firewall something ain't right (no idea when the 4.0 moved from RC9LYC to RC12LYC, later models use RC12ECC)
Old Apr 29, 2013 | 07:57 PM
  #29808  
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Year: 1992
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no leaks. that i know of. Good point on the o2 sensor i never changed it maybe i'll try that. weird mpg is still about 18-19. I think 1991 was when they changed from the rc9yc to the rc12lyc plug assuming it's because of the high output thing. Thanks!
Old Apr 29, 2013 | 07:58 PM
  #29809  
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From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
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Anyone know how the infinity sound package tweeters are wired up? Like a diagram ?
Old Apr 29, 2013 | 08:20 PM
  #29810  
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Anyone know how the infinity sound package tweeters are wired up? Like a diagram ?
OK. So I've found out that the tweeters are wired inline with the door speakers. So, in theory, if my door speaker works and the tweeter doesn't, than the problem has to be in the wiring to the tweeter right?
Old Apr 29, 2013 | 08:24 PM
  #29811  
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From: Baltimore
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cylinder
Default grinding noise

I have a "grinding" noise coming from beneath my jeep.

It only makes the sound after driving for at least 30-45 minutes straight and a speed of at least 40mph. I hear it a tiny little bit driving straight but majorly when turning. After i park and let it sit for a bit it goes away.

Can anyone help me with this?

Zach
Old Apr 29, 2013 | 08:27 PM
  #29812  
ccooper1234's Avatar
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From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
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What's the best muffler and cat that will give me a deep tone that's not ricey? I only want it to be loud when I floor it. I mainly want it to be free flowing to give me better mpg.
Old Apr 29, 2013 | 08:31 PM
  #29813  
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!

Last edited by unionfitter; Apr 30, 2013 at 10:34 PM.
Old Apr 29, 2013 | 08:43 PM
  #29814  
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From: Utah
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Can anyone guide me to a good link on converting my rear drums to Grand Cherokee discs?


Thanks.
Old Apr 29, 2013 | 08:58 PM
  #29815  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by ccooper1234
What's the best muffler and cat that will give me a deep tone that's not ricey? I only want it to be loud when I floor it. I mainly want it to be free flowing to give me better mpg.
Clicky: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/al...o-here-103854/
Old Apr 29, 2013 | 09:04 PM
  #29816  
salad's Avatar
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Originally Posted by DieselD
OK. So I've found out that the tweeters are wired inline with the door speakers. So, in theory, if my door speaker works and the tweeter doesn't, than the problem has to be in the wiring to the tweeter right?
Yes, or within the wiring itself (bad splice to the door speakers). If you really wanted to you should be able to hook them up to any stereo system with speaker outputs and run them at a very low volume for testing. From the info in the FSM I'm guessing they just have high-pass filters, probably a simple capacitor, on the back.

You can also test the wires going to the tweeter with a multimeter in AC volts mode. Play something at a low volume and you'll be able to see the needle move if everything is okay.

I'm not sure if the tweeter has any metal mounting on that little bracket, but if it's somehow grounded to the body there could be issues.
Old Apr 29, 2013 | 09:05 PM
  #29817  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Default

Originally Posted by zhodges13
I have a "grinding" noise coming from beneath my jeep.

It only makes the sound after driving for at least 30-45 minutes straight and a speed of at least 40mph. I hear it a tiny little bit driving straight but majorly when turning. After i park and let it sit for a bit it goes away.

Can anyone help me with this?

Zach
I'd start by taking it for a drive and getting it up on jack stands as soon as possible. Turn all the components by hand and see where the grinding noise is coming from. Going to guess you have some lubricant that's past due for a change and stops lubricating once warmed up. When were the fluids last changed?
Old Apr 29, 2013 | 09:25 PM
  #29818  
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From: Kodiak, Alaska
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Default Electric radiator fan Question

Which direction should the electric fan be moving air? I just bought my 95 Cherokee Sport several months ago. Today while standing in front of the vehicle, I noticed that the electric fan is blowing air out of the engine compartment; not drawing in. Is this correct?
Old Apr 29, 2013 | 09:30 PM
  #29819  
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From: Colorado
Year: 1992 Cherokee Sport
Engine: Bone-Stock 242
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Originally Posted by HelNbakWarzalot
Which direction should the electric fan be moving air? I just bought my 95 Cherokee Sport several months ago. Today while standing in front of the vehicle, I noticed that the electric fan is blowing air out of the engine compartment; not drawing in. Is this correct?
Nope. It sucks air IN through the radiator. Possible the wires are just crossed.
Old Apr 29, 2013 | 10:33 PM
  #29820  
DieselD's Avatar
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From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
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Originally Posted by salad

Yes, or within the wiring itself (bad splice to the door speakers). If you really wanted to you should be able to hook them up to any stereo system with speaker outputs and run them at a very low volume for testing. From the info in the FSM I'm guessing they just have high-pass filters, probably a simple capacitor, on the back.

You can also test the wires going to the tweeter with a multimeter in AC volts mode. Play something at a low volume and you'll be able to see the needle move if everything is okay.

I'm not sure if the tweeter has any metal mounting on that little bracket, but if it's somehow grounded to the body there could be issues.
No grounding on the back. I looked for that. Lol.

There is indeed a high pass filter (well I wasn't sure that's what it was til you said it) but its there.

I'll give the wires a check with volt meter. See if they're getting anything. Then go from there.

Thanks.



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