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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 11:55 AM
  #25726  
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Puts some thougth into it. Alot of people on here seem to jump on the thats horrible sketchy train. Try the how could I make this work, ie; more stable for street then how it would be nice to get the added droop without going linked. and forget revolvers.
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 11:56 AM
  #25727  
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but why? Why go through the trouble when the mechanics behind it are totally ****ed?

1) you'd get incredible front end dive under braking
2) you'd need to somehow prevent the shackle from inverting
3) It's useless downtravel if there's nothing pushing down on the wheel
4) hope you like spitting ujoint caps every time you flex it out and bind the driveline
5) what happens under compression? Every time it compresses it slams against the body mount? Sounds bone jarring and in general not a good thing.
6) Sounds incredibly unpredictable
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 11:57 AM
  #25728  
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Originally Posted by MoparNJeep
Puts some thougth into it. Alot of people on here seem to jump on the thats horrible sketchy train. Try the how could I make this work, ie; more stable for street then how it would be nice to get the added droop without going linked. and forget revolvers.
The problem is there's no way to control it offroad. I don't see any way in which it is a better setup than a single shackle. I understand what you're saying, but I don't see how it could be done safely and still give any improvement.
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 12:10 PM
  #25729  
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Thanks dukie, an opinion with some thoughts. Here what I would think you could do to remedy in order of your thoughts 1. Pin setup to lock frameside shackle for street 2.limit travel with cross bars inbetween frameside shackle 3. There is very little downforce at full droop on any setup 4. How do linked guys do it then 5. Limit with cross bars or snub on frame 6. Like a linked rear with no sways or 3/4 elliptical setup.
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 12:12 PM
  #25730  
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Originally Posted by MoparNJeep
Thanks dukie, an opinion with some thoughts. Here what I would think you could do to remedy in order of your thoughts 1. Pin setup to lock frameside shackle for street 2.limit travel with cross bars inbetween frameside shackle 3. There is very little downforce at full droop on any setup 4. How do linked guys do it then 5. Limit with cross bars or snub on frame 6. Like a linked rear with no sways or 3/4 elliptical setup.
Where's the blueprint?
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 12:28 PM
  #25731  
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Best plugs and wires? NGK?
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 12:29 PM
  #25732  
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Originally Posted by ThatPurpleXJ
Best plugs and wires? NGK?
Champion Copper. Go cheap. XJs like 'em.
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 12:30 PM
  #25733  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Champion Copper. Go cheap. XJs like 'em.

That's the only time you'll here cheap and something/someone liking something
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 12:31 PM
  #25734  
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Best I can do, at work

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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 12:36 PM
  #25735  
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Wouldn't a the end of the shackle that the leafspring go to if it allowed the spring bolts to slide up and down accomplish the same purpose and in.theory be safer that is if it didn't wear out
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 12:43 PM
  #25736  
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They have shackle relocation thats similar to what your ssyn but they do wallow out slot, and are far more limited on travel than this setup could be. It would seem safe if locked for street and was limited for its motion of travel.
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 12:48 PM
  #25737  
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Originally Posted by MoparNJeep
They have shackle relocation thats similar to what your ssyn but they do wallow out slot, and are far more limited on travel than this setup could be. It would seem safe if locked for street and was limited for its motion of travel.
Who knows for my kinda wheeling I don't need insane amounts of flex
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 12:50 PM
  #25738  
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Originally Posted by ThatPurpleXJ
Best plugs and wires? NGK?
I love my NGKs. ZFR5N superceded the Champion RC12ECC - both dirt cheap, but quality, copper plugs. NGK RC-CRX026 is a great wire set and they're numbered, to boot.
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 12:53 PM
  #25739  
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Originally Posted by dukie564
but why? Why go through the trouble when the mechanics behind it are totally ****ed?

1) you'd get incredible front end dive under braking
2) you'd need to somehow prevent the shackle from inverting
3) It's useless downtravel if there's nothing pushing down on the wheel
4) hope you like spitting ujoint caps every time you flex it out and bind the driveline
5) what happens under compression? Every time it compresses it slams against the body mount? Sounds bone jarring and in general not a good thing.
6) Sounds incredibly unpredictable
I might be totally off with this one, but wouldn't the extra droop with a double-shackle setup be essentially useless anyway? You'd only be able to put so much force on two joints before it collapses. In other words, it wouldn't be able to take enough vehicle weight to create sufficient tracion, which I assume is why one would want a ton of droop. Seems a locker would be a MUCH better and safer use of funds. Don't some rocker crawlers basically have the axles bolted to the frame?
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 01:09 PM
  #25740  
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Read previous post, rock crawlers like controled flex. This would be more trails for me, maybe just when I just need droop for obstacle, just pull a in have tires lugs doing somethin. And again at full droop there is little to no load anyways. Thats like sayin why worry about shackle angle its not gonna put a load on the tire.



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