Its for my wifes xj so im not really looking for a cowl set up. on my 90 im thinking about doing the cowl. My wife drives alot more than me and im just trying to get performance and better mileage.

What about a steering upgrade thats not $200+.

 

Cowl intake is waay cheaper than those drop in maintenance filters. Dukie564 has a thread in Modified Tech where he basically used a couple of ABS elbows.

ZJ tie rod?

 

Tough to say with your modified rims being flat black, buy glossy black might look good.

 

Your leaves don't look too bad. A pic with the wheel off from the side would be better.

 

I've got a problem I need the expertise of this forum to help me with, my ignition switch has been giving me trouble, it's intermittent with the accessories, and if you wiggle the key you can get them to work, the connector has dielectric grease on it, and the switch is relatively new, so I dropped the column and it turns out the accessory connector had one prong that melted the plastic and corroded pretty bad, it's connected to a big brown wire, and I'm not sure what caused the problem,i replaced the switch last year due to an accessory problem, and so I'm kinda baffled as to what the issue is.

 

I have a 1992 Cherokee with a 231 transfer case, I believe there aren't vacuum lines for this set-up. 4WD won't engage: 4hi remains in 2wd, and in 4low it doesn't drive at all. No dash lights come on.

I am looking for a picture that shows how to manually move the linkage to make sure that it's actually moving the right parts. My search has come up with only people saying to move them, but they don't show exactly what.

Thanks for the help!

 

Sorry, you mean there are parts inside the switch that are melted right now or that's why you replaced it before?

Dielectric grease should never be used on contacts that conduct electricity. It's actually an insulator, and is intended for mating surfaces around connections to keep water out (such as shrouds and boots). If you want something to prevent corrosion on the pins themselves try one of these: http://www.k1ttt.net/technote/antiox.html You can find NOALOX and OX-GARD at places like Home Depot and Lowes.

If you do have burnt connections you should replace all of that junk... and don't smear insulative grease everywhere

 

Indeed there is no vacuum disconnect in '92. It does sound like your linkage is out of adjustment. Try this thread:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/4wd-issue-8031/



I take it Neutral actually puts it into 4H?

To adjust it, get the transfer case into the 2H position, regardless of what the handle says. Hop down underneath and back off the bolt, move the handle into the 2H position, tighten the bolt, done.

Also a failure with the switch/wiring/bulb is not uncommon, so relying on the light isn't really wise.

 

In addition to this, look into the Chevy S10 linkage upgrade. From my understanding, you're likely to have further trouble with the linkage after you have to disconnect it once.

 

I am a new member. I am having trouble finding how to get my problem where multiple folks can review it. Maybe you can help.

My 99 cherokee (classic) has the 231 t-case (2H, 4H, N, 4L). For starters, there is a clicking noise coming from the front passenger side tire area, but I have no idea what it is and it isnt really loud (sounds like something is inside the tire, but I dont think thats the problem).

The real problem is my four wheel drive not working. When I engage the 4x4, there seems to be no problem. When I drive in 4x4 high and low there is a horrible grinding noise coming from under the hood and the front tires arent getting power. Any Ideas?

 

Thank you so much. I never thought to put it in N to see if that was 4hi. I went out and tried it and it worked. I'll work on fixing it when it isn't snowing. But at least for now I can drive in it.

 

Overheated connector contacts are caused by resistive connections. This is often due to a loose mate or a missed mate. A loose mate is just that - there was not enough mechanical "bite" from the receptacle when the pin inserted. A missed mate - which I have found in several cases - occurs when the pin misses the target receptacle and inserts off-target beside the receptacle. The missed mate will make incidental contact and become intermittent over a period of time. That's why jiggling appears to make the circuit function again but only temporarily.

 

Thanks for the response.

How would I take a picture with the wheel off and still have the truck sitting on the suspension? Know what I mean, like if I were to jack it up on the uni or hog head it wouldn't be sitting properly on the suspension right?

 

Agreed. Whenever that terminal on the switch burns, the connector needs to be refurbished or replace. at least the one with the brown wire. You mighta cooked another switch bTW.

 

Place jack under axle tube. Jack up to ride height. Check by measuring ground-to-stud height of axle and of tire/wheel.