When I bought it with 258k at 266k right now.

 

Well when I get the money, I will replace:

The fuel filter
Oil filter(current one is fram)
Refresh my grounds
And replace my rear u joints

 

Good question

 

:whistles: almost 9k. they should have replaced it atleast two to three times between now and then. Right?(honest question)

 

Depends on the gas you use. A normal filter with good gas can last to 15k

Buuuuut if crap gas was used or gunk is in the tank every 5-6.

 

Ahh ok. Thank you.

 

P0138 is "O2 Sensor High Voltage Bank 1, Sensor 2". This is the sensor downstream of the cat. It is not uncommon for the wiring to fall down and get chewed up by the drive shaft or by rodents. Check for damaged wiring causing a short - otherwise it is probably the sensor itself.

If your 97 has the single feed into the fuel rail (pretty sure this is the case) it should be around 45 PSI.

 

Lol i doubt mine has ever been replaced.. I honestly didnt know you're supposed to change them that often.

 

This is indicative of a dry start. Generally the first 10-15 seconds or so is the fault of a bad filter with failed anti-drain-back valve but if it lasts for a minute then it's too cold for the oil you're using. I saw in another post you run 10W30... you haven't mentioned your location but if it's "cold as crap" you should have 5W30 or 0W30 in there.

For the Rotella fans... 5W40 works just fine.

 

Well the XJ is two generations removed from the WJ (try this forum: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f5/) but generally any vehicle like that can be approached in two ways:

- Swap the entire gauge cluster from a US vehicle: Fixes everything but the odometer, which is actually built-in to the cluster itself, so you'll see the mileage from the donor all the time
- Install an overlay onto your current gauge cluster: If you look around here you'll see a few white ones, your odometer will be retained but obviously in kilometers instead of miles.

The US and Everywhere Else versions of the gauges work the same electrically and mechanically, it's just the paint and odometer that makes them different.

 

Edit: nvm

 

cool thanks i will look into that easier to get to first

 

Thank you and I live in Fredericksburg, VA.

 

Power door lock help needed.

After the salt bath, my door locks quit working. I have since removed two bad actuators, front passenger and rear hatch, and tested all actuators with a 12v source and they are working. With everything put back in and wired up, I get nothing when I push the door lock/unlock. Windows and power mirrors work fine.

I have checked all of the fuses none of which were blown. I read that the whole power door lock system is controlled by the passenger front control panel on the door panel. There are two relays in the door switch panel.

Is there anyway to test this panel to see if that is my problem?

 

Did yo mess with the other switch? Make sure it isn't shorting out and overriding the driver-side switch