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Window stuck down and its going to rain soon

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Old 11-02-2012, 04:22 PM
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Default Window stuck down and its going to rain soon

hey everyone ive been trying to figure this out for hours...all other windows work from drivers control but the driver window..i went and test the where the circut breaker is under the passenger kick panel..neither of the ports have any voltage..i read online it says that there is a open in the white/black wire going from the junction box to the ignition switch..idont know which black wire this is can anybody help? btw its a 2001 cherokee sport
Old 11-02-2012, 07:12 PM
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Worst case. Take off door panel. Disconnect window from motor assembly pull window back up into track tape ( duck tape of course ) the window up. Let it rain.

Search for Windows Regulator Replacement or Window Motor Replacement.

You should find plenty of instructions/pictures/videos.

It works, I know, trust me I know and it works.

Good Luck with your Jeep
Old 11-02-2012, 09:44 PM
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bang the door a couple of times from the inside. if i lower the window all the way the motor seizes so i bang the door with my fist and it works
Old 11-02-2012, 10:27 PM
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i just bought a bare bones all manual XJ .. because of this

woulda been cheaper to buy four JY doors on my last 1 .. justa thought

I feel your pain .. good luck



gorilla tape works the best for outdoor wet tape jobs
Old 11-03-2012, 07:28 AM
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Take the driver's door panel off. And check all sides of the driver's door switch with a volt meter. Making sure they work when activated. The switches are known to go bad. Also the wire (In the rubber Boot/sleeve) between the body and door jam, are known to break there. While the panel is off. replace the plastic connector clips on the door linkage rods. The clips are cheap and available at any auto parts store. And replace the crappy factory door speaker, while apart. If you still have them.
Old 11-03-2012, 10:39 AM
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Ok, I keep offering this advice but nobody listens for some reason...

I had this EXACT same problem. 2000 XJ Sport.

The problem?

Broken wire leading from the master switch to the rear right door. Yes, ALL windows are channeled through the master switch, so if there's a broken wire leading to it, it will cause any of the windows to stop working depending on which wire it is.

I started out thinking it was the regulator, but then I hooked up a direct power source and it worked. Ruled that out.

Then I thought it was the harness between the body and the rear passenger door. Nope, that was good too.

So I pulled the boot between the driver's door and body, and what do ya know, yet ANOTHER broken wire. I spliced it, and it all worked perfectly again.

So far, I've had to repair that particular wire, the wire for the window lock out switch, and the wire for my driver's door speaker.

I am telling you, it is almost CERTAINLY the wire in that boot that's broken and causing your problem. PLEASE check it and tell me if I'm right, I really don't understand why nobody believes me.
Old 11-03-2012, 12:04 PM
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Remove switch, find wires going to door motor (wiring diagram)
Check resistance, it should be, I guess, about 2-8 Ohms. If there is no continuity, motor is dead or you check wrong wires.
Using jumper wires apply voltage and ground to wires, it will lift or lower glass, reverse wires if glass goes down.
You have to remove door panel in 01.
If panel is removed you can apply voltage to motor connector. You don't need diagram for that.

Last edited by 97AT4x4XJ; 11-03-2012 at 12:10 PM.
Old 11-03-2012, 12:57 PM
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ok well i checked the boot wires again and i can only really check half of it with out taking the tape off but before i was about to do that i banged on the outside of the door while holding the switch up and it went up..and the window was all the way down...but this window has been doing this and getting stuck in all positions...
88_cherokee - did you end up replacing the motor?
Old 11-03-2012, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 91 limited owner
Take the driver's door panel off. And check all sides of the driver's door switch with a volt meter. Making sure they work when activated. The switches are known to go bad. Also the wire (In the rubber Boot/sleeve) between the body and door jam, are known to break there. While the panel is off. replace the plastic connector clips on the door linkage rods. The clips are cheap and available at any auto parts store. And replace the crappy factory door speaker, while apart. If you still have them.
Can you explain how you test the window switch with a voltmeter? I have a multimeter. Is there a DETAILED 101-level write up anywhere? Like it tells you what setting you're on, and exactly where to put the red and black probes, and what you're trying to look for, and how to know if something's broken.

Also, how do you get to the broken wires inside the door jamb "boot"? Is there a write-up that tells you how to remove stuff and get at the actual broken wire? "Open door panel, fix wires inside the door hinge boot" is not enough detail for me since I am a DIY beginner.

Thanks!
Old 11-03-2012, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 97AT4x4XJ
Remove switch, find wires going to door motor (wiring diagram)
Check resistance, it should be, I guess, about 2-8 Ohms. If there is no continuity, motor is dead or you check wrong wires.
Using jumper wires apply voltage and ground to wires, it will lift or lower glass, reverse wires if glass goes down.
You have to remove door panel in 01.
If panel is removed you can apply voltage to motor connector. You don't need diagram for that.
I have no idea what you're trying to say, but it sounds like you know what's going on.
Is there a detailed "101" write-up that explains what it means to "test for resistance" and how that is done?
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