No4x4Yet

Ive been flushing my coolant for a fw weeks no since my coolant its dirty as can be. My question is when I drain it im only collecting about a gallon of fluid. I do lose some when splashes around but it doesn look 2+ gallons on the ground. Ive been draining it from the radiator drain and the block drain. Ive just been running tap water with some cleaner additive. Im hoping this weekend itll be clean I can but the coolant in, its getting cold here in NY so I need to get it in soon.

djb383

I hope the cleaner is not CLR and u thoroughly flush the cleaner out before adding fresh 50/50. It's never a good idea to run just water for any length of time. The block/head are cast iron and rusts almost instantly when in contact with just water.

Flush/drain with clean water then fill it with 50/50 and keep close tabs on the coolant color/clarity by checking frequently motor COLD. At the 1st sign of color changing, drain and refill with fresh 50/50. Each time u do this, the coolant will stay cleaner/greener longer, but u gotta keep checking.

bigbadon

1/2 cup Cascade works wonders. Run 30 minutes then flush completely with a flush kit. I had a chevy that the OAT coolant turned to mud and I tried every flush on the market and none of them worked. I tried the cascade trick and when I looked into the radiator I seen shiny like-new brass!!

No4x4Yet

I am using the proper stuff djb, http://prestone.com/node/379. Im on my third go with it, So hopefully Im good this time around. I had a real nastty sludge in there when I started but it was looking good last time, jsut a lil dirty. Maybe Ill do the Cascade bit this weekend to give it a lil extra cleaning.

AS for my original question, Am I getting all the coolant out removing those 2 plugs?

djb383

U'll never get all the water out unless u pull the motor, the rad and the heater core and turn them upside down and let them air dry for several days. LOL Just let it drain real good with the bottom rad hose removed from the pump an maybe blow a little compressed air thru the upper heater hose. Button it all up and fill it with 50/50 and burp it while idling with the rad cap off 'til motor comes up to operating temp. Keep the rad full while idling. Check coolant level/color frequently, motor COLD.

Jim Vaughn

I have a 1997 Cherokee which I just flushed, the drain plug broke I bought another one and it snapped off before it got tight, had to pull the radiator to get the piece out looks like the hole is not big enough for the two little ears they must have bottomed out and caused it to break,what do I need to do cut the ears off before trying to put another one in they are $10.00 a piece and I don't have money to throw away . Its a 5/8-18 plug can I plug it off with a metal plug? anyone had this problem, please advise.
Jim

djb383

Take the stock plug down to a hardware store and see if u can find a plug with matching thread, put some thread sealer on it and hope it holds. The plastic rad plugs are notorious for breaking......it's always best to drain the motor/rad by removing bottom rad hose from the water pump.

No4x4Yet

Thanks!

bilzhorse

My anti freeze looked like coffee when I got my Cherokee. I used the Prestone backflush kit and it worked great. Flushed it for 20 mins before it ran clear. With the price of anti freeze I would try this. http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=p5e&sa=N&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&biw=1024&bih=625&tbm=isch&tbnid=ubp0GM 1aiHiJgM:&imgrefurl=http://www.customclassictrucks.com/techarticles/0907cct_prestone_diy_radiator_flush_system/photo_03.html&docid=f2rpC3O--xcfyM&imgurl=http://image.customclassictrucks.com/f/18734008/0907cct_03_z%252Bprestone%252Bflush_n_fill_kit.jpg &w=640&h=480&ei=7eWTUP6tO_Sw0AHjmIDIDw&zoom=1&iact =hc&vpx=246&vpy=153&dur=34&hovh=194&hovw=259&tx=13 3&ty=92&sig=109825954617348875640&page=1&tbnh=142& tbnw=181&start=0&ndsp=15&ved=1t:429,r:1,s:0,i:75

djb383

If one disconnects the 2 heater hoses (from the t-stat cover and water pump), the 2 rad hoses (from the t-stat cover and water pump).....the heater core, the motor and the radiator are then isolated from each other and lumpy/solid crud will be flushed out of those 3 areas and not be moved from one area to another.

If coolant has been neglected long enough to look like coffee, u can bet the cooling system has plenty of lumpy/solid crud that will not be flushed UP and out the top of the rad. Lumpy/solid crud settles to the low areas of the heater core, motor and radiator.....it needs to be flushed out at those same low areas like the bottom of the heater core, the low (inlet) side of the water pump and the low (outlet) side of the rad, not the top of the rad. Trying to push/remove lumpy/solid crud UP is like pushing a rope.

bilzhorse

I just said "it looked like coffee". I have never seen lumpy coffee. Anyway, my cooling system is clean I assure you.

djb383

A search will reveal plenty of neglected coffee colored coolant pics with way more than 1 lump or 2 (LOL). Glad u got yours cleaned up, sounds like u raise the hood once in a while.

No4x4Yet

I got the most crap out from the engine block drain. It's the lowest
Drain and collects a lot of **** in there.