kinetic

Hey everyone,

I just recently picked up a 1996 10/96 build Jeep Cherokee Xj

I live in Michigan and more often then not they are completely rusted out.
This one was pretty clean but, came with some mechanical issues.







Basically my issue is as follows.

The transmission will shift into the highest gear possible as quickly as possible.

I will wind up in overdrive by 15 miles per hour.

If I shift the vehicle manually it will prevent it from shifting to overdrive and will drive mostly normally.
For instance 1-2, ill be in first gear for about 5 feet and it will shift into second. 3-4 it will basically immediately shift into 4th

When shifting manually it shifts crisp and cleanly it does not slip.

when in drive it also shifts cleanly and does not slip I notice it just shifting into each gear way too fast.


Things I've done in an attempt to remedy the situation.

• Adjusted the Throttle Valve, I pushed it in and manually went to full throttle it basically extends all the way out anyways though.
• I replaced the solenoids and drained the transmission and put new dextron111/merc 4quarts roughly
• unplugged TPS sensor to see if it would act any differently
• unplugged speed sensor to see if it would act any differently

None, of the following that I have done have changed the characteristics of the shifting very much.
The fluid and solenoid change have actually made it do it faster!

I'm a little stuck and looking for some guidance.

My currently Mind set is

• Replace/Test TPS sensor
• Replace/Test Map sensor
• Replace/Test TCU
• Replace/Test Output speed sensor

I want to trouble shoot it correctly and not just replace parts for no reason. But, I'm also willing to replace any part including the trans if it comes to it.

The one oddity I've noticed is not on the trans but the transferase appears to have been welded/repaired near the rear output wondering if this may affect the reading of the rear speed sensor.

but like I stated above unplugging it didn't change symptoms and all I lost was my MPH gauge.

awg

how sure are you that Solenoid number 2 is operational, as it sounds like mine was when that failed (altho you have no 2nd & 3rd in auto D, so it goes from 1st to 4th)

back probe the black & white wire in the rectangular 7 pin connector beside the trans dipstick (or just disconnect and measure, should be less than 15ohms)

I would next replace the output speed sensor then, TCM, I do have the needed used spare parts on hand to do this

doesnt sound like the trans itself is defective

kinetic

Hey awg,
Appreciate the reply, It actually shifts through all the gears I feel it shifting through them it just happens very quickly
But, to answer the question directly I haven't tested the solenoids directly, I just replaced them from a recommendation, without testing.
I was told "Just give her a fluid flush and solenoids and see show she acts" it was cheap enough that I was willing to throw away money at that.
Now, I'd like to take a more technical approach to the issue.

But, would you happen to have a picture of the connector your mentioning.
I will get my multimeter out and report back on my findings.

I have also just ordered a scanner

OBDLink MX+

To attempt to do some scanning there were no lights on the dash but, hey figured it will come in handy later.

awg

correction; that is the Torque convertor solenoid wire, NOT the 2nd,

it is either the violet and white or blue and white ones next to it.

Ground is battery negative ( or that ground point on the engine block )

lawsoncl

Welcome aboard!

I have a sneaky suspicion the previous owner swapped in a 1998+ transmission. The 1998+ trans will have an input speed sensor on the drivers side of the transmission up near the bell housing. The previous years do not have this sensor. You may also see some splicing done in the wiring harness as the plugs were different. You can see the blue sensor just forward of the shift linkage in the picture below. It's actually identical to the rear output sensor. The rear output sensor on the later transmissions puts out 4 pulse per rev versus the older only putting out 1 pulse per rev. Combine that with a 1996 TCU and you're in 4th gear by the time you're doing 20mph. Here's some good info on the AW4 interchanges and solutions at https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970

BlueRidgeMark

Give that kick-down cable a thorough cleaning and lubing, and try adjusting it again.

kinetic

Hey lawsoncl I really I really appreciate your comment.

Well.. well.. well

It, would appear that I do have 2 sensors on this transmission.

kinetic

Hey BlueRidgeMark, I will give that a shot regardless of these new findings it was actually pretty stiff.

Also, you're the reason I picked the scanner that I did reading your comments about it.

pleasure to meet you!

lawsoncl

That'll do it! The sensor in the back of the xfer case is just for the speedo. The output sensor in the trans is hiding under the bracket for the xfer case linkage.

From the link I posted earlier:
If you have a 1990.5-1996 XJ:

• 1987-1990 AW4s are bolt-in... as long as you also swap the input gears in your transfer case, or the whole transfer case. Remember that the NP231 input gear cuts changed in 94 or 95 and that the rear output of the transfer case changed from 95 to 96 when selecting a donor. I would NOT suggest this swap unless in dire straits (need to get off the trail, need to get to work tomorrow or be fired, etc) as you are limiting yourself to a rapidly disappearing selection of 21 spline spare parts in the boneyards.
• 1990.5-1996 AW4s are bolt-in.
• 1997 AW4s are bolt-in, except you have to cut and splice the wiring harness connector. Again, 5 butt-splice crimp terminals and a few minutes and this is done. You may need to add custom wiring for the transfer case indicator lamps (see this bullet under the 87-90 section, above.)
• 1998-2001 AW4s require more work. All the transfer case input gear info from 1990.5-1997 applies, on top of that, the sensors have changed! You can either build the circuit given here by lawsoncl or swap the transmission tailhousing, sensor drive rotor, and output speed sensor as shown here by Frank Z to make this work. You may need to add custom wiring for the transfer case indicator lamps (see above.)

Another option if you just want manual shifting: https://nickintimedesign.com/product...fter-jr-v1-96/

kinetic

Hey Lawsoncl well since, I don't have a earlier tail housing / rotor housing to swap with it would sound like apparently a circuit you built would be my best option.


I tried to visit the links but kept getting hit with a 403 error.

Would you be able to provide me with some info on this?

I've taken basic logic gate classes and basic IC understanding if this is something maybe i can handle.

lawsoncl

PM me your email address. I have a pdf with the hand drawn circuit diagram and a couple of pictures. It's rough, and literally assembled from what I had laying around in my spare parts bins (I think the was from an apple ethertalk adapter?). But it's been working well for almost 12 years now. Some assembly required as they say.

I uploaded the PDF to here
https://pdfhost.io/v/ULyZG.2Io_AW4_S...nverterpdf.pdf

cruiser54

Nice catch lawsoncl!!!!!

lawsoncl

I just noticed there is an aftermarket transfercase shift linkage. I haven't seen that type before. Looks custom.

Spencer_P

Also, that black piece hanging by the exhaust should be pressed around the passenger seat belt bolt.