Trans fluid flush questions...
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Seasoned Member




Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 349
Likes: 4
From: Lexington, KY
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
'96 XJ here and I've added a trans cooler up front but haven't tied the lines in yet. When I go to splice these into the return line of the trans I'd like to do something of a fluid flush at the same time. After I split the return line I believe the flushing process involves letting some fluid pump out then stopping everything, filling up with new fluid, then repeating the process until what's coming out is fresh red fluid. Couple questions...
1- How much fluid should I let pump out at a time before refilling? 2qts, 3qts?
2- What starts the trans fluid pump to pumping? Is it when the engine starts or when it's put in gear? I'm just wondering what I need to do to start and stop the trans fluid flow.
and
3- What's a good transmission additive/cleaner to add to my trans before doing the flush?
1- How much fluid should I let pump out at a time before refilling? 2qts, 3qts?
2- What starts the trans fluid pump to pumping? Is it when the engine starts or when it's put in gear? I'm just wondering what I need to do to start and stop the trans fluid flow.
and
3- What's a good transmission additive/cleaner to add to my trans before doing the flush?
Last edited by bradleyheathhays; Nov 23, 2016 at 09:53 PM.
Just fill it with fluid and drive it.
Do a few drain and fills.
Do a few drain and fills.
sucessive aproximation! eventually you are 99 %!!
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Like Cruiser says, just draining (what drains) and filling works. I like the suggestion of just "upping" the interval and doing it with oil changes till the fluid looks good. Btw it just has a screen, not a filter. The screen is fine unless something really went wrong.
Since you have the line off already you might let it idle until the flow drops, cut the engine and go from there. You will have drained more than will drain from the drain plug.
Since you have the line off already you might let it idle until the flow drops, cut the engine and go from there. You will have drained more than will drain from the drain plug.
Last edited by DFlintstone; Nov 24, 2016 at 12:35 PM.
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7,965
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From: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Hmmm. I see something up there that looks familiar.
Don't worry about any additives. Just clean Dex/Merc.
Don't worry about any additives. Just clean Dex/Merc.
I like the drain and fill technique, but I think the previous owner of our new 2001 XJ used atf or gear oil. It's the one that smells REALLY bad. I'll probably flush it, but would also like to know more about the stinky oil. What is it? Is it safe to use? Is it compatible with Mercon? IS it Mercon? Any help is always appreciated.
-TJ
-TJ
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I like the drain and fill technique, but I think the previous owner of our new 2001 XJ used atf or gear oil. It's the one that smells REALLY bad. I'll probably flush it, but would also like to know more about the stinky oil. What is it? Is it safe to use? Is it compatible with Mercon? IS it Mercon? Any help is always appreciated.
-TJ
Sorry for the double post.
-TJ
Sorry for the double post.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 802
Likes: 140
From: NJ
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Drain and fills are honestly a little easier. I would rather open and close a drain plug a few times than cut a steel line and give another spot that could leak. Walmart sells the dex/merc for like 15 bucks a gallon, which should be more than enough to replace what you drain out. Do that a few times (4 or 5) and you should be pretty cleaned out, then do it every 30000 miles. Trans should work just fine (assuming there are no other underlying problems.
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7,965
Likes: 964
From: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Make it simple. Dex/Merc Dex/Merc Dex/Merc
Don't mess with anything else. Don't try to improve on it. Dex/Merc Dex/Merc Dex/Merc
Here are the instructions for a complete flush, as provided by a retired Ford transmission engineer, Mark Kovalsky. Yes, it's for a Ford, but the steps are almost the same. The only difference is, the AW4 has no real filter, so there's no real reason to drop the pan,. Just do the flush.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...and-video.html
And no, you won't "shock" your transmission. They have been around the block a few times, they have seen things that would make a sailor blush. They don't shock easily.
Don't mess with anything else. Don't try to improve on it. Dex/Merc Dex/Merc Dex/Merc
Here are the instructions for a complete flush, as provided by a retired Ford transmission engineer, Mark Kovalsky. Yes, it's for a Ford, but the steps are almost the same. The only difference is, the AW4 has no real filter, so there's no real reason to drop the pan,. Just do the flush.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...and-video.html
And no, you won't "shock" your transmission. They have been around the block a few times, they have seen things that would make a sailor blush. They don't shock easily.
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7,965
Likes: 964
From: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Cruiser, are you saying he should stick to Dex/Merc?
(I think he's saying you should stick to Dex/Merc.)
(I think he's saying you should stick to Dex/Merc.)
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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