Does anyone know what is done to a rebuilt steering box? Is it just new seals?

If my current box has no leaks but is sloppy (I've checked everywhere else including intermediate steering shaft) should I adjust it or replace it?

This is the adjustment that I'm referring to, not wildly turning the adjuster nut.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/s...ering-1164443/

 

http://www.offroadoutpost.com/1991-c...oV0aAt7a8P8HAQ

That Is all that comes with a rebuild kit. I assume they do a little more than that when they remanufacture them.

The adjustment does very little in my experience... more of a fine tuning thing. If your steering is loose and sloppy, you sure your TREs are good?

 

I just upgraded to the S-10 steering box. My XJ box had at least a quarter turn of the wheel before it made any contact. Will let you know how it goes over. Just got it in....

 

The bulk rebuilders (Cardone, etc) generally do it like this:
Disassemble steering boxes as they arrive.
Clean and inspect parts, toss out the grossly worn stuff, put those that pass tolerance into bins.
Clean and paint outer housing.
Pull parts from bins and re-assemble the steering box.
Replace seals, bearings and/or sleeves.
Adjust input and sector shaft preload.

The obvious problem here is the boxes are rebuilt using mix-and-match parts from other boxes. Sometimes the wear is additive and you get a box worse than what you removed, other times it is complimentary and you get a nice tight assembly. You use the 'lifetime warranty' and keep exchanging them until you get a good one.

That's about all you'll get with these older Saginaw (now NexTeer) steering boxes, the internal parts are no longer made and NexTeer has no more stock.
This is the same problem you'll run into with a DIY rebuild kit. Other than seals, bearings and bushings....you can't get the parts.

The other alternative is to buy from a rebuilder that does not do bulk rebuilding, but sells direct. Readhead is one example:
http://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/
They will re-machine and polish the box's internals to a better than OEM fit. But they are not inexpensive.

The middle ground alternative is to pull a low-mileage unit from the scrapyard and clean it up, or go with a modification of some sort like a Durango box.

 

Yeah all TREs are tight. Checked with helper in drivers seat and slowly move the steering wheel back and forth while feeling/watching each joint by hand for play.

Thanks Radi for the info. So the Durango boxes may have replacement internal parts still available?

 

BleepinJeep.com will show you how to do a rebuild on your own bench if that's a route you wish to take.

 

I got the S-10 Steering box in and it has no slop and is very touchy. Got to keep my eyes on the road a lot more now. Look down for a second to change the radio and the next thing you know your off the road. Haven't went off road with it yet.

 

A lot of times in a steering box (any saginaw-style box) it's wear can be from a bunch of reasons. A lot of times its just worn bearings or damaged bearings (from water). Then what happens is the preload is disrupted and suddenly you have a lot of slop regardless if all the internals are perfect. There are other wear factors which you can still have used parts and make a nice tight steering box. And sometimes it's not the steering box but worn intermediate shafts and rag joints. I took the steering box off my OBS Chevy 4x4 with 265k miles to rebuild it. I 'thought' it had a lot of play. I put it in the vise and loosened all the adjustments and re-tightened. Nope, still in good shape. It was the shaft and rag joint which I 'thought' were good, but upon further inspection weren't.

 

Took the steering unit apart today. The bearing is definitely shot. 3 of the roller bearings came out.