I'm a bike guy so forgive the ignorance

1993 XJ
Great bone stock condition
270,000 miles :-)
$1200 :-)
Runs Great...everything works except the cruise control
Had death wobble at 50mph....fixed with new tie rod ends/ball joints/track bar/wheel bearings (i think these were the problem).

Question:
Noise in rear end. Can get worse in a turn. Subtle whine but definitely not normal. It drives fine as it is....
Is there a reason to fix it now rather than later? It's likely it will be a whole rear end no matter which way I do it right?
Gearing....If I change gearing do I have to change the front gearing as well? I plan a 2-3 inch lift and light wheeling but it won't be a hucker. It will be driven to the trails...maybe 31's on 17" wheels? Should I even modify the gearing?

Thank you for the help. I am new into the Jeep world. I want to get this old girl perfect now then put some money into it and make it cool.

Rob
Kent, WA

 

Welcome to the sickness!
You should have the same gearing front and rear. If you're not used to an XJ, try wheeling it stock to see what it can do and then adapt it to your own requirements. There's never a single answer to these questions!

 

Noise changing in a turn often points to wheel bearings, which aren't that difficult to do. Yes, gearing needs to match front to back (well, close like 4.10/4.11 and 3.54.3.55 stock). Auto or manual?

 

4.0 Auto with Full and Part time 4wd

 

A 242 Transfer Case - I love them

 

I've heard it's the right rig to start with. I'm looking at 3" and 33s but still able to run 65 down the road...

 

That's crazy, i just bought a 93 XJ , bone stock 220k miles... cept my sounds electrical, constant while at a stop light or driving. No change in pitch just whine/hum while jeep is on. Im thinking fuel pump or something. Anyways hope you figure yours out.

edited to add... Also ride... Biker first, Jeep lover second . ( have had several wranglers over the years )

 

Some things I would suggest. If you DO replace the rear axle, get a Chrysler 8.25 from newer years. It's much stronger than the D35 you probably have, although I don't know that's what you have for sure. If you replace the front axle, try to stick with a high pinion D30. That keeps the front driveshaft mostly out of harm's way as much as possible. With 31s you probably don't need to regear, but if you go with 33s, I suggest 4.10s. A rear differential locker is a very good thing to have for off-roading and a selectable front locker for serious wheeling. You can more than likely get away with 31s and a lift without cutting any sheet metal for clearance. I'd stick with 15" wheels to give you more options for tires. I also suggest you DON'T use wheel spacers, but get wheels with the necessary backspacing so you don't need them.

Try to keep the engine above 1500 rpm by gearing down when under load so you don't overstress it and burn any valves. If it overheats, shut it off and let it cool before proceeding.

These are my opinions and you may or may not agree with them. I'm sure the other guys on the forum have their own recommendations and I fully respect that. There you go! Have fun because that's what jeepin' is all about.

 

I'm still wondering what sort of Light Wheeling requires 33s and a re-gear, sounds quite intense to me!

 

Yeah, I thought so too, but I was going with his plans. For anything I'd be doing, like trail riding, I'd be good with 30s, a 2" lift, and a lunchbox locker.

 

^^^ X 5,000 LOL... welcome to the family, forum, and the incurable sickness of old Jeep ownership...What do they say about owning an old XJ?.... it's kind like having herpes... sure it'll act up from time to time, but you'll never get rid of it. LOL

 

Sometimes I call my Jeeps a hucker too, ... wait, no the h isn't right.