lower crank/ rod bearing help
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,001
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From: Memphis tenn
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i6 4.0
Originally Posted by cruiser54
I posted this before:
Cruiser's HO into Renix Swap
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can't be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You'll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver's side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it's place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver's side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I've seen are threaded for it. If not, I've heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that's the case.
Revised 07/24/2012
Cruiser's HO into Renix Swap
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can't be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You'll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver's side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it's place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver's side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I've seen are threaded for it. If not, I've heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that's the case.
Revised 07/24/2012
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
You're gonna swap your REnix distributor into the HO.
Do this to both engines first:
Setting Your 4.0 at #1 TDC
With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4" front crankshaft bolt. You will see the degree marks on your front cover. You will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark them with chalk or white-out. While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there's no pressure, you're at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.
Do this to both engines first:
Setting Your 4.0 at #1 TDC
With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4" front crankshaft bolt. You will see the degree marks on your front cover. You will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark them with chalk or white-out. While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there's no pressure, you're at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Then this:
Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.
Install a ¾" wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.
Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.
Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.
Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.
If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.
Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.
Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.
Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .
Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.
Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.
Revised 07/03/2012
Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.
Install a ¾" wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.
Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.
Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.
Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.
If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.
Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.
Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.
Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .
Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.
Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.
Revised 07/03/2012
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
From: Memphis tenn
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i6 4.0
Originally Posted by cruiser54
Then this:
Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.
Install a ¾" wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.
Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.
Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.
Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.
If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.
Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.
Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.
Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .
Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.
Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.
Revised 07/03/2012
Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.
Install a ¾" wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.
Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.
Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.
Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.
If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.
Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.
Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.
Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .
Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.
Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.
Revised 07/03/2012
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
You might have enough on your plate. Likewise the alternator, just run the one that's in it now. At some point the regulator is no longer internal, moved to the PCM. (you have an ECU). I think you want to use your original alternator, and it's wiring.
Last edited by DFlintstone; Dec 15, 2012 at 06:06 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
From: Memphis tenn
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i6 4.0
OK so will the bracket for the alternator. Line up and how would I go about external. Regulator without. Pcm swap or r there. Cs130d with that plug option
Last edited by anothadayridin; Dec 15, 2012 at 09:21 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Have you swapped a motor before? Or a tyranny?
Last edited by DFlintstone; Dec 15, 2012 at 09:32 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
From: Memphis tenn
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i6 4.0
Originally Posted by DFlintstone
You are gonna keep your ECU. Not change to the newer PCM computer that was with the HO engine. Keeping the same computer in the same "car" eliminates a ton of hassles. True! That's why the other stuff is changed, so your computer get's it. Dizy, flex plate, alternator, all the rest is to make your Electronic Control Unit happy. A "Power-train Control Module" from a 91 on would just be a massive headache.
Have you swapped a motor before? Or a tyranny?
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 0
From: Yakima
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Wait, what? I, just, don't... huh?
You should first give us your honest assessment of wether you think you are capable of performing an engine swap. It's ok if you aren't. Lot's of people just don't have that experience, time, workspace, or tools. We can't keep recommending things that you aren't willing to do just because you aren't comfortable doing them. If you decide that an engine swap isn't something you want to tackle yourself, we can help lead you in other directions to get it fixed as cheaply and quickly as possible. It can't keep going like this...
You - It knocks really bad
Us - You need a new engine
You - I don't have any oil pressure
Us - You need a new engine
You - Now it's smoking
Us - You need a new engine
You - My air filter is full of oil
Us - You need a new engine
Good luck. I hope you get it taken care of.
You should first give us your honest assessment of wether you think you are capable of performing an engine swap. It's ok if you aren't. Lot's of people just don't have that experience, time, workspace, or tools. We can't keep recommending things that you aren't willing to do just because you aren't comfortable doing them. If you decide that an engine swap isn't something you want to tackle yourself, we can help lead you in other directions to get it fixed as cheaply and quickly as possible. It can't keep going like this...
You - It knocks really bad
Us - You need a new engine
You - I don't have any oil pressure
Us - You need a new engine
You - Now it's smoking
Us - You need a new engine
You - My air filter is full of oil
Us - You need a new engine
Good luck. I hope you get it taken care of.
Us - Swap em out!
You - Will it work?
Us - Yes
You - Will it work?
Us - Yes, just do it!
You - Will it work?
Us - YES!!