But also this...

LOL. You're trolling yourself into exile, my friend. You may not get banned but it won't matter because no one will waste their time responding to your asinine requests for help.

Just curious, have you checked to make sure your Home Depot gas pipe adjustable "track bar" isn't sticking out of the block?

 

Come on guys let's not beat him up to much...

 

I found the fix and put it in his other thread. Might as well post it here, too.

 

SAFII...(stick a fork in it), it's done! Sorry man. Some of these guys can tell you, I tend to be too optimistic. The blow-by, the knocking. Even I will call this one done.

You could pull one plug wire at time and find which cyl/cys's don't change the idle, (or knocking)(probably). You could do a compression test, look at the plugs.

Tough that. 88,000 miles on an 88? Just a baby. Maybe youle' get lucky with a JY motor.

 

My thoughts exactly. Thanks for putting that all together in one post.

 

Its actually. Held up solid f***tard

 

Thanks

 

Well I bypassed the ccv valve that's where my oil was coming from I'm going to look into main bearings. N tlrod bearings And a oil pump soon to atleast keep it driving. Awhile. Lol I f I get 30000 miles out of it illegal be happy

 

Well, mine didn't actually need it yet but got this. It's the rod bearings that will slam first, and normally the crank is f-ed by then. The rod inserts might be only $20-$30. If you are hell bent to gamble, in a weekend you might pull the pan and swap them. Idk your situation, hardly seems worth it with the top end shot. If a compression test turned up some roughly acceptable numbers???? Well Pete..."desperate times".....

 

Where is that bypassed to? And 20 or 30$ where lol

 

Well, you might look here> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/met...il-pan-124867/

 

Mr Flintstones. How would I go about replacing them and rod bearings or would I be Better off looking for a motor

 

Does sound very much like you need a different engine. Post your compression readings and maybe you will get help from there. Google that and look at U-tube for wet/dry compression.

 

OK found a motor. Out of a 92 to drop in it its high mileage. Need to know the difference. In main and rod bearings. Sets like Wat u see at autozone I mean the set come with two big n 12 small the rod ones are just seperate. Is there any difference. Or Wat plus I need knowledge. Of. Wat I will need to check for oversize or undersized. Ones. And Wat I would end up having to go with. I am also looking at Wat I need as far as dropping. This into my 88 I hope Noone. Gets confused please. Just need insight

 

I posted this before:

Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.
　
Revised 07/24/2012