Why do you want to change the bearings in the used motor?

 

Well I paid 75$ for the motor man don't knock me cuz I ain't rich

 

[quote="cruiser54"]I posted this before:

Cruiser's HO into Renix Swap
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can't be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You'll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver's side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it's place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver's side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I've seen are threaded for it. If not, I've heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that's the case.

Revised 07/24/2012


Motors a 92. Wat cghanges am I looking at

 

And that means it needs main and rod bearings because it cost $75 and you're not rich?

And I'm knocking you for asking?

 

You pull something like that again and you are surely done. He had correctly pointed out your contradictory posts.



Not to disagree with Cruiser, you have no reason to feel you need to open it up. I have changed the rod inserts on an engine that was out just because it's pretty easy, cheap, and the rods are often the first to go. The problem, if you are new at it, haven't done it (a bunch), you could mess something up and end up spending time and money messing it up! You might be wise to follow the HO swap instructions and runr'. That will be plenty of work as it is!

 

OK. Just tired of people. Bashing. Me

 

Wait, what? I, just, don't... huh?

You should first give us your honest assessment of wether you think you are capable of performing an engine swap. It's ok if you aren't. Lot's of people just don't have that experience, time, workspace, or tools. We can't keep recommending things that you aren't willing to do just because you aren't comfortable doing them. If you decide that an engine swap isn't something you want to tackle yourself, we can help lead you in other directions to get it fixed as cheaply and quickly as possible. It can't keep going like this...

You - It knocks really bad
Us - You need a new engine
You - I don't have any oil pressure
Us - You need a new engine
You - Now it's smoking
Us - You need a new engine
You - My air filter is full of oil
Us - You need a new engine

Good luck. I hope you get it taken care of.

 

Excellent summary of the two lengthy threads.

 

This is one. Of those deals...where. Do you stop? If you pull the. Pan to replace bearings, do. You pull the valve cover, too? Then do you buy. A complete gasket set as long as the. Engine is out? And as long as the head is. Off (for the gasket), do you have it. Checked at a machine shop and have a valve job? Just some things. To think about.

 

[quote=anothadayridin;2180545]Read the frickin' write-up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

My. 02. If I have an unknown JY engine (likely in the back of a pickup). I might pull the pan and change the part('s), where the rod bearing wears. That being the replaceable inserts. Or Don't. YES! once you go to mains or rings a different deal. It "cascades" lifters? cam bearings? On and on.

Old days of "rings and rods" can be forgotten or not. Dropping the pan, reaming the ridge, honeing the cyls, and changing out her rod inserts and rings was not a rare way to keep her goen'.

Burnt, (exhaust valves), aside, pump, cam bearings, and rockers rarely bring an engine down. Rod bearings. Them and the pistons/rings are what actually go. I'm doing OK at 270K, but I use XXX oil. ( too thick at below freezing)

 

[QUOTE=anothadayridin;2181650]OK. Just tired of people. Bashing. Me/QUOTE]


Hang in there! Pretty sure Pete didn't get you're "OK" up there^. So you are gonna just follow the HO swap instructions? The issue here is fixing Cherokee Jeeps? This could ROCK! Did you get the motor? What's "high miles?"

 

Cam bearing are probably the #1 cause of oil pressure loss when they are worn. If you need cam bearing your not doing that with a hammer and screw driver

 

I did read it sir this isn't a ho I don't think but then again Idk.

 

200,000 miles. And its clean. I'm. Thinking of keeping my old head. And brackets. N stuff I just hope everything. Mounts up right flywheel. All that's good stuff