::Drain Diff for ball joint Replacement::
#1
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Year: 1999
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::Drain Diff for ball joint Replacement::
I am getting ready to do a ball joint replacement. I have seen it being recommended to drain the diff fluid.
Is this necessary? I assume I can just jack up one side and that should keep all fluid away from the open side I'm working on?
Is this necessary? I assume I can just jack up one side and that should keep all fluid away from the open side I'm working on?
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^^ I agree.
Depending on which tool set you use to press the ball joints in and out, I've found it easiest to jack the axle up as high as you can with your floor jack, and then put the jack stands under the body to let the axle droop. I use the OTC tools. Depending on if the ball joints have been in there for a long time & a bit rusted in place, a 3/4" breaker bar and cheater pump may be needed on the ball joint press until they "pop".
Depending on which tool set you use to press the ball joints in and out, I've found it easiest to jack the axle up as high as you can with your floor jack, and then put the jack stands under the body to let the axle droop. I use the OTC tools. Depending on if the ball joints have been in there for a long time & a bit rusted in place, a 3/4" breaker bar and cheater pump may be needed on the ball joint press until they "pop".
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^^ I agree.
Depending on which tool set you use to press the ball joints in and out, I've found it easiest to jack the axle up as high as you can with your floor jack, and then put the jack stands under the body to let the axle droop. I use the OTC tools. Depending on if the ball joints have been in there for a long time & a bit rusted in place, a 3/4" breaker bar and cheater pump may be needed on the ball joint press until they "pop".
Depending on which tool set you use to press the ball joints in and out, I've found it easiest to jack the axle up as high as you can with your floor jack, and then put the jack stands under the body to let the axle droop. I use the OTC tools. Depending on if the ball joints have been in there for a long time & a bit rusted in place, a 3/4" breaker bar and cheater pump may be needed on the ball joint press until they "pop".
I was planning on placing the jack stands under the axle where the lower control arms meet the axle housing. like I normally do. I figured this would be safest when applying loads of torque to the ball joint press. Am i wrong in this thinking? I really dont know as this will be my first whack at a ball joint job.
Thanks! looking for any good tip!
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The reason to let the axle droop is so that you have enough room in the wheel well to operate the press with a breaker bar & pipe. And you want it up high enough so that you can fit a breaker bar when you do the lower. However you do it is up to you & the tools you use. With the OTC tools, I've found that you need to let the axle droop yet be high enough so you can do the lowers without re-arranging the jack stands & floor jack. I use HF 6 ton jack stands to support the body. The HF 3 ton ones are almost useless.
#6
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Also when you put the axles back in, slather grease all over the end and put it in VERY carefully to avoid ripping the oil seal located in the center of the housing. Please don't ask me why I know, lol.
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+1 on the grease in the axles!
Also, depending on the ball joint press kit you get, you may not have all the correct cups to press the new ones in. In which case you need some steel plates as shims to make it work. I used the flat metal side of the handy bar nail puller.
But see if you can rent the press kit with all the correct cups.
Also, depending on the ball joint press kit you get, you may not have all the correct cups to press the new ones in. In which case you need some steel plates as shims to make it work. I used the flat metal side of the handy bar nail puller.
But see if you can rent the press kit with all the correct cups.
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