Darn You XJ!
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 345
Likes: 1
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6 4.0L
Bottle brush hone was used. I did not take part in that step, my step dad did the hone. Yes gaps were checked between all the rings, and rings went on in correct order.
I'm pretty sure on just about any vehicle rebuild with 100,000+ you would have to use a ridge reamer in order to get the rings with the piston out. Even the slightest lip would stop them from sliding out of there.
I'm pretty sure on just about any vehicle rebuild with 100,000+ you would have to use a ridge reamer in order to get the rings with the piston out. Even the slightest lip would stop them from sliding out of there.
Bottle brush hone was used. I did not take part in that step, my step dad did the hone. Yes gaps were checked between all the rings, and rings went on in correct order.
I'm pretty sure on just about any vehicle rebuild with 100,000+ you would have to use a ridge reamer in order to get the rings with the piston out. Even the slightest lip would stop them from sliding out of there.
I'm pretty sure on just about any vehicle rebuild with 100,000+ you would have to use a ridge reamer in order to get the rings with the piston out. Even the slightest lip would stop them from sliding out of there.
Any ridge you can catch a fingernail on is enough to break a ring land on the piston. That's the old standard that never fails.
Folks, we need to remember that GM and Ford engines use softer iron than Mopar and AMC (high nickle content iron) for their blocks, so they wear faster and thusly need boring earlier.
I had a 64 225 Slant Six that I pulled out for replacement at 400+K miles that had every top ring broken and still had 145 pounds cranking compression and just enough ridge to require its removal to get the pistons out.
Budd


ARE YOU FREAKIN KIDDING ME?!
dude, don't ever touch an engine again. you CANNOT remove part of the cylinder wall to get the pistons through the top of the engine.
in working on 4.0's, I've found that they MUST be pulled from the bottom, with the crankshaft out.
of course you're getting blow-by. there is nothing to seat the pistons to anymore. hell, you probably didn't even do the valve seals right (if you did them at all) and probably didn't lap the valves either...
seriously no offense but....that is remedial knowledge. it is just not done. I knew that stuff when I was ten man.
Last edited by JeepCoMJ; Apr 15, 2009 at 10:01 AM.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 345
Likes: 1
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6 4.0L
We sent the whole head to a machine shop to get it redone. You can pull the pistons out of the top man I'm pretty sure if you went from the bottom, you would run into the same problem with a ridge, but even worse.
Jeep Cherokee Haynes manual : "remove the bearing insert and push the connecting rod/piston assembly out through the top of the engine" (this is with the crank still connected) ^^ Gonna argue with that?
Jeep Cherokee Haynes manual : "remove the bearing insert and push the connecting rod/piston assembly out through the top of the engine" (this is with the crank still connected) ^^ Gonna argue with that?
Last edited by mycherokee1989; Apr 15, 2009 at 10:15 AM.
Bottle brush hone was used. I did not take part in that step, my step dad did the hone. Yes gaps were checked between all the rings, and rings went on in correct order.
I'm pretty sure on just about any vehicle rebuild with 100,000+ you would have to use a ridge reamer in order to get the rings with the piston out. Even the slightest lip would stop them from sliding out of there.
I'm pretty sure on just about any vehicle rebuild with 100,000+ you would have to use a ridge reamer in order to get the rings with the piston out. Even the slightest lip would stop them from sliding out of there.
if there's ridges, a hone job is not even close to sufficient.
nope. the piston skirt comes down to the bottom edge of the cylinder and doesn't wear as much as the ring-contact area.
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
From: Highlands Ranch Co.
Year: 1985 shell
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1996 6 cylinder Briggs & Stratton


ARE YOU FREAKIN KIDDING ME?!
dude, don't ever touch an engine again. you CANNOT remove part of the cylinder wall to get the pistons through the top of the engine.
in working on 4.0's, I've found that they MUST be pulled from the bottom, with the crankshaft out.
of course you're getting blow-by. there is nothing to seat the pistons to anymore. hell, you probably didn't even do the valve seals right (if you did them at all) and probably didn't lap the valves either...
seriously no offense but....that is remedial knowledge. it is just not done. I knew that stuff when I was ten man.
lol...me or the OP?
and you still fubar'd it that bad?
don't ever touch an engine again.
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