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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 08:30 PM
  #31  
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Bottle brush hone was used. I did not take part in that step, my step dad did the hone. Yes gaps were checked between all the rings, and rings went on in correct order.
I'm pretty sure on just about any vehicle rebuild with 100,000+ you would have to use a ridge reamer in order to get the rings with the piston out. Even the slightest lip would stop them from sliding out of there.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 09:24 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by mycherokee1989
Bottle brush hone was used. I did not take part in that step, my step dad did the hone. Yes gaps were checked between all the rings, and rings went on in correct order.
I'm pretty sure on just about any vehicle rebuild with 100,000+ you would have to use a ridge reamer in order to get the rings with the piston out. Even the slightest lip would stop them from sliding out of there.
You did good.

Any ridge you can catch a fingernail on is enough to break a ring land on the piston. That's the old standard that never fails.

Folks, we need to remember that GM and Ford engines use softer iron than Mopar and AMC (high nickle content iron) for their blocks, so they wear faster and thusly need boring earlier.

I had a 64 225 Slant Six that I pulled out for replacement at 400+K miles that had every top ring broken and still had 145 pounds cranking compression and just enough ridge to require its removal to get the pistons out.

Budd
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 09:57 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by mycherokee1989
You need to remove the lip to get the pistons out in the first place tho, unless you go from underneath. I didn't go any further in than the rest of the cylinder already was.



ARE YOU FREAKIN KIDDING ME?!

dude, don't ever touch an engine again. you CANNOT remove part of the cylinder wall to get the pistons through the top of the engine.

in working on 4.0's, I've found that they MUST be pulled from the bottom, with the crankshaft out.

of course you're getting blow-by. there is nothing to seat the pistons to anymore. hell, you probably didn't even do the valve seals right (if you did them at all) and probably didn't lap the valves either...

seriously no offense but....that is remedial knowledge. it is just not done. I knew that stuff when I was ten man.

Last edited by JeepCoMJ; Apr 15, 2009 at 10:01 AM.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:03 AM
  #34  
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We sent the whole head to a machine shop to get it redone. You can pull the pistons out of the top man I'm pretty sure if you went from the bottom, you would run into the same problem with a ridge, but even worse.

Jeep Cherokee Haynes manual : "remove the bearing insert and push the connecting rod/piston assembly out through the top of the engine" (this is with the crank still connected) ^^ Gonna argue with that?

Last edited by mycherokee1989; Apr 15, 2009 at 10:15 AM.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:08 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mycherokee1989
Bottle brush hone was used. I did not take part in that step, my step dad did the hone. Yes gaps were checked between all the rings, and rings went on in correct order.
I'm pretty sure on just about any vehicle rebuild with 100,000+ you would have to use a ridge reamer in order to get the rings with the piston out. Even the slightest lip would stop them from sliding out of there.
that is a generalization. I've only ever had one engine that needed the ridges reamed, and it was a 4.0...we removed the pistons from the bottom (since the proper way to do a hone/ bore job is with the crankshaft out), and then had it bored .020 over.

if there's ridges, a hone job is not even close to sufficient.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:09 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by mycherokee1989
We sent the whole head to a machine shop to get it redone. You can pull the pistons out of the top man I'm pretty sure if you went from the bottom, you would run into the same problem with a ridge, but even worse.

nope. the piston skirt comes down to the bottom edge of the cylinder and doesn't wear as much as the ring-contact area.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 12:11 PM
  #37  
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I talked to some of my friends that build engine for a living about you
it was the best laugh session we have had in a long time thanks
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 09:28 PM
  #38  
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Crankshaft and block did come out to do the hone.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 09:58 PM
  #39  
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Exclamation ridge reamer

Originally Posted by JeepCoMJ



ARE YOU FREAKIN KIDDING ME?!

dude, don't ever touch an engine again. you CANNOT remove part of the cylinder wall to get the pistons through the top of the engine.

in working on 4.0's, I've found that they MUST be pulled from the bottom, with the crankshaft out.

of course you're getting blow-by. there is nothing to seat the pistons to anymore. hell, you probably didn't even do the valve seals right (if you did them at all) and probably didn't lap the valves either...

seriously no offense but....that is remedial knowledge. it is just not done. I knew that stuff when I was ten man.
I'm thinking that you have not worked on many engines if you believe that pistons don't come out the top!!! A ridge reamer is a tool that removes the top lip of the cylinder that does not get worn by rings...... By removing the ridge you can pull out the piston from the top without breaking the ring lands!!! There is a lot of slamming going on that is uncalled for! When somebody asks for help or advise, they should not have to deal with the noise that this young man is getting!
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 09:58 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by mike37
I talked to some of my friends that build engine for a living about you
it was the best laugh session we have had in a long time thanks

lol...me or the OP?

Originally Posted by mycherokee1989
Crankshaft and block did come out to do the hone.
and you still fubar'd it that bad?

don't ever touch an engine again.
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