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Cloudy/milky coolant

Old 06-18-2013, 01:57 PM
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My antifreeze is pretty cloudy/milky looking and has a somewhat rusty color to it. Time for a flush?
Attached Thumbnails Cloudy/milky coolant-image-692898491.jpg   Cloudy/milky coolant-image-974171907.jpg   Cloudy/milky coolant-image-332977985.jpg  

Last edited by pdowty68; 06-18-2013 at 01:59 PM.
Old 06-18-2013, 03:14 PM
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yep, flush it out, and run straight water for a few minutes,, then see if its still the same. if it comes back clean-- fill with coolant and roll.
Old 06-18-2013, 05:57 PM
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What is the history of coolant changes on this vehicle?

Yes, I would definitely perform a flush and refill TO a 50/50 concentration. I would use a moderate flushing additive (available from any auto parts store) to help ensure a complete flush. Follow the directions closely.

Verify your concentration when all is done with a hydrometer, also available at any parts store. Unless you use a pre-mix, use distilled water to mix with your concentrated coolant.

Also a good time to review any other cooling system parts that might need to be replaced. Thermostat, hoses, radiator, water pump. The money you spend on cooling system maintenance is the best money you can spend on your XJ.

Last edited by tjwalker; 06-18-2013 at 06:01 PM.
Old 06-18-2013, 07:18 PM
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Good stuff^^
Old 06-18-2013, 09:36 PM
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I have been running water only the past few weeks, draining and replacing the water every couple of weeks. After a couple more flushes my systen should be cleaned out pretty good, then new hoses, antifreeze, etc....
Old 06-18-2013, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob98Classic
I have been running water only the past few weeks, draining and replacing the water every couple of weeks. After a couple more flushes my systen should be cleaned out pretty good, then new hoses, antifreeze, etc....
Might want to "git 'er done" ASAP.......water only in a cast iron motor causes internal rust very quickly, not to mention no lubrication for the water pump shaft seals. The large coolant passage ways in the block/head can handle/pass circulating rust particles.....the small coolant passages in the rad and heater core can't (will plug up).
Old 06-19-2013, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob98Classic
I have been running water only the past few weeks, draining and replacing the water every couple of weeks. After a couple more flushes my systen should be cleaned out pretty good, then new hoses, antifreeze, etc....
Originally Posted by djb383
Might want to "git 'er done" ASAP.......water only in a cast iron motor causes internal rust very quickly, not to mention no lubrication for the water pump shaft seals. The large coolant passage ways in the block/head can handle/pass circulating rust particles.....the small coolant passages in the rad and heater core can't (will plug up).
^^THIS^^!!!!

Running straight water is bad.
Old 06-19-2013, 01:21 PM
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I have been doing this procedure in my Plymouth for 27 years now, every summer. My Plymouth has never overheated.
I have been doing this procedure in my Chevy Van since 1980. Never has overheated or had any problems.
Same with my 89 Goldwing, no problems....
Old 06-19-2013, 01:27 PM
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Yikes. definitely should do a flush there. How's your heater working? Might want to back-flush your heater core too. And be prepared to replace stuff, ya never know.
Old 06-19-2013, 04:04 PM
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Is it just me or is that red like as tranny fluid around inside of neck?
Old 06-19-2013, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Is it just me or is that red like as tranny fluid around inside of neck?
Nah that's just what original antifreeze looks like
Old 06-19-2013, 05:50 PM
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Would it not mix with water that's separated ? see resemblence
Attached Thumbnails Cloudy/milky coolant-pic28.jpg  

Last edited by freegdr; 06-19-2013 at 05:56 PM.
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