How do i go about widening my stance on a 90 XJ without using wheel spacers?

 

You can use aftermarket rims with a backspacing of 3.75" or 4" rather than the OEM rim which is 5.25". Here are some examples:
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...rder=Ascending

 

Hey guys so I am not a newbie but haven't been on the site for 3yrs. I have a few questions about my new project. It is a 1988 2 door Laredo 4.0L. I am going to lift it and would also like to change the axles and think it best to do it all at once. What axles should I get and should I buy a XJ lift and weld brackets on the axles or get the axles and custom make a lift.
I sold my 99 4 door with the 8in rustys long arm for my move to Cali. So I am now in cali with a stock 2 door and tons of time because I don't know anyone lol!

I replaced the entire cooling system and got a dirtbound shroud and 3 electric fans and a jeggs wireing kit with 185-170 thermostatic switch and it works amazing!

 

2" budget boost (coil spacers and extended shackles) would allow you enough to run 30" tires. Relatively simple to do, but it sounds like your main priority would be to get some tools man. I did the 3.5" lift myself with the OEM bottle jack that came with it, some jack stands, a set of sockets, wrenches, and a breaker bar. Takes a while, but it can be done.

Stay away from Add a Leaf kits and lift blocks (aka block spacers). The AAL kits will severely stiffen your ride and sag back to nearly OEM height in less than a year, and the block spacers are bad for your springs and can cause axle wrap.


Nice lookin' Jeep, btw.

 

What's up guys! If this is in the wrong place please let me know as this is my first post!
I have a 1994 Cherokee Country Inline-6 4x4 that I am looking to throw a lift on! After doing some research over the past few weeks I have narrowed it down to the Rough Country 3 inch lift and the Rubicon Express 3.5 Super Flex short arm. I am leaning towards the RE system due to reviews on durability, ride comfort, and upgrade ability. My goal is to start with the RE system and eventually put on the long arm extension to the 3.5 RE Super Flex. With the RE they say I need SYE and CV driveshaft, so far I have priced everything out to be 1300 or so which is right around my budget, what else am I going to need or want to add on at the beginning of my build? A buddy of mine told me I may want to look into a steering stabilizer as well as an adjustable track bar, so still under $1500 with those and I would be about capping out my budget.
So with all that said, I'll tell you my intentions with my Jeep and see what you guys recommend! I live in Colorado Springs and I plan on living out of my Jeep this summer and fall, so while it will be my DD for work, it will also need to get me up and down the mountains and through some decent trails to get to good camp sites, and of course to Jeep it and have a little fun in as well. My biggest goal is just to be able to navigate some decent off road, while still maintaining a smooth enough ride to daily!

Thank you for all the advice!

 

You're on the right track. That RE kit is an excellent choice, and you will probably need the SYE (the new driveshaft is a requirement alongside an SYE). You will also want to install a new track bar. Single shear TBs are easier to install, but double shear models are much stronger.

If you do have issues with your front end after the lift, it's because some of your original parts are worn out. That's normal with the age of these vehicles, and the wear is amplified by the bigger tires and the new angles. A new steering stabilizer would only mask the feedback from these issues, and it would disguise the fact that they're actually getting worse. Start with the lift, track bar, SYE, and rear driveshaft, and then do maintenance as-needed.

 

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If you can afford the RE kit, do the RE kit. You get what you pay for man. I'm running a Tuff Country 3.5" kit (acquired it from a friend for free) and the ride is very stiff... from my research, it's very similar to the RC kit... so I wouldn't recommend it.

As far as the driveshaft goes, you should already have a CV front driveshaft. Unless the RE kit you're getting comes with a SYE kit, you don't need another one. If it DOES come with an SYE (which kit is THAT, btw?), you can get another front driveshaft from an XJ and use it as your rear driveshaft in lieu of buying an aftermarket CV driveshaft. Would save you a good coin.

 

Yeah from everything that I have researched the RE is just better quality, smoother ride, not as many breaks or issues, and almost never any factory issues. Since I will not be paying rent anywhere and this will be my home I want to treat her with the absolute best yanno! I plan on getting the RE6030 package http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Suspen...pn=R%2FERE6030 here is the link.
It comes with everything you guys suggested except the track bar and shocks. I recently got new monroe shocks so I am curious if I can use those instead of having to purchase a second set, I plan on finding out exact ones I got tomorrow when I can call. So now the only thing I am confused about is the SYE and CV, unless I am missing it on their link, I do not believe they are included, so if I need to replace one with the other, should I just go ahead and get those thrown on as preventative maintenance?

 

Factory-length shocks will just barely work at 2" of lift. You will definitely need to replace them with that kit. I would recommend installing an SYE (and corresponding driveshaft) with the lift. You may not -need- it, but you won't know until you finish the lift installation and test drive it. There's about a 70% chance that you'll need it anyway, and having an SYE will reduce the stress on your rear driveline regardless of whether or not it ends up being a required component.

 

Dope thank you! It's only 200 or so to get the upgraded shocks with the package so I can just tag that on, instead of the other parts I was considering until they are needed. How do I go about deciding on tires? I have the stock 15" wheels, and I dont want to get new wheels if I dont have, so how do I get a decent tire to fit that wheel and a 3.5" lift, or should I be getting a bigger wheels as well to match the bigger size?

 

From the results I hear everyone getting with the 3.5" netting about 4.5" in the rear, I think it's safe to say, he's gonna need the SYE don't you?

Yeeesh.... You can fit 31s on those wheels, but they will rub the control arms at full lock. You can try to run the steering stops out to help alleviate that, but you'll lose turning radius in doing so. Check craigslist for a cheap set of steel wheels like cragar soft 8s, or d-windows. Usually can pick up an entire set for around 100 bucks.

Another option is to run wheel spacers, but you have to be very careful with them because there is a failure rate with wheel spacers. Lugs tend to snap off and it's usually due to improper installation such as failure to torque properly and/or re-torque after xx amount of miles. The other thing you want to look for if you do go the spacer route is "Hub-centric" spacers made by a quality manufacturer such as spider trax or alloy usa. DO NOT cheap out if you run wheel spacers. For the cost of a good set, you really may as well just buy a set of wheels with the proper backspacing. People usually only buy good quality sets of spacers if they're in love with the wheels they have, but need them spaced out more.

 

I didn't install an SYE with my 3.5" RE, so I know it isn't an inherent requirement. But knowing what I know now after a few years of experience, I'd definitely include it on my list of parts. I do recommend it.

Agreed on the wheels. I suggest an aftermarket set to space the tires further from the chassis. They're cheap, especially if you buy used, and they'll give you room to run 31s comfortably.

 

Your jeep is the identical twin to mine.

Heres a pic of what it will look like with a 3.5" RE lift and 30x9.5's

 

 

Not gonna lie, I kinda miss those solid american racing outlaws.