So I've replaced my sway bar bushings and obviously the sway bar end links. How tight is the top bolt to the end link supposed to be? Anyone know the torque spec?
Oh hi. So I've replaced my sway bar bushings and obviously the sway bar end links. How tight is the top bolt to the end link supposed to be? Anyone know the torque spec?
you typically just want to tighten to where the rubber starts to bulge out just a tad. The same way you would on shocks.
So for a while now I've had this nagging thought in the back of my head that I should pull up the carpet in the Jeep and inspect what's underneath. Today I stopped procrastinating and got to it.
Here's what I found:
The rust isn't as bad as some of the photos I've seen here on the forum, but rust is rust. As you can see there are a few small holes. I am unable to weld, but I was thinking some epoxy like JB Weld would work for this? Any thoughts on that?
I went to work. I did as much as I could before it got too dark.
So for a while now I've had this nagging thought in the back of my head that I should pull up the carpet in the Jeep and inspect what's underneath. Today I stopped procrastinating and got to it.
The rust isn't as bad as some of the photos I've seen here on the forum, but rust is rust. As you can see there are a few small holes. I am unable to weld, but I was thinking some epoxy like JB Weld would work for this? Any thoughts on that?
Lights passed the test, but my switches failed. They work, but the indicator LED in them is blindingly bright. I couldn't find my good camera, a I said I am moving next weekend so everything is packed or piled up waiting to be packed. I did take a couple pictures with my cell phone and a short video. The pictures alone should state why you should never drive on public roads with light bars or any glare inducing lights on.
The video shows why off road lighting is great. It is shaky, but I didn't air down or disconnect the sway bar. I am also trying to drive and record with one hand and work the switches with the other.
I also went to the junkyard today and scored a mint condition steering wheel with cruise control. The thing looks like it's never been held, and mine looks like crap and the leather is peeling/cracking. Decent score at $19.
So I bought my 96 4 door Cherokee a month or so ago (I'm new to this form and the jeep world). When I bought it the guy I bought it from said the drivers side back door latch needed "re-attached". I'm not at all sure what that meant seeing as everything inside the door seemed attached just fine. The door still wouldn't open though and when I took it to the dealership just to have them check a few things including the door, they said it would probably be a 300 dollar or more fix...not going to happen. So after doing more important stuff to the jeep like fixing a cooling issue I decided last night to again take the door panel off and see what I could fix. Well I was able to get the door open by manually working the latch mechanism which I was happy about (at least I new the door could open and the mechanism worked). After messing around more I figured out that there's a little pin that pushes a lever forward when you push the button on the outside located on the door handle. This lever works the latch...if it's working properly. My issue was that that little pin that moves when the door handle button is pressed wasn't pushing the lever far enough to get the latch to unlatch. So I figured I could simply create a spacer type thing that attached to that lever where the pin pushes it, basically it forces the pin to push the lever farther than it had been previously doing. After some trial and error with cardboard as a spacer I decided to take a small thin piece of wood (which I wrapped in blue painters tape which you will see in the picture) and zip tied it to the lever so it can't fall out. The result is a Jerryrigged fix and I can now open my door as much as I please, from the outside. I still have to figure out why the door handle on the inside won't work. But at least now I can open and close my door. Here's the picture.
I know it's impossible to see but that's about the best I can do, the blue thing is the wood spacer (like I said wrapped in blue painters tape) the green and the white are zip ties. You can see they wrap around the spacer and a metal thing, that metal thing is the lever I was talking about. You can't see the pin because it's behind he spacer but I think you get the idea. Sorry for the long post it took quite a bit of explaining. I realize this may not have been the best place to post this but I'm new to the forum and didn't find any door latch issue threads when I searched so this was the best I could find. Hoped it helped someone!
