ah ok

 

so does that mean I do need one of each?

 

My solution was to weld that 10mm ball mount to chassis. Used flux-core welder. Disconnect battery before welding.

 

I wonder if anyone else has experienced this. Mine is a '92 XJ and here is a little backstory for context:

I replaced my water pump because it was bad, and so I replaced my radiator because you're supposed to do that when you do a new water pump. So of course I also changed my thermostat and serpentine belt and radiator hoses, but that's beside the point.

Now I'm running with the new radiator and my engine temp seems cooler than before, and goes up to about 210 before dropping to 190. So that tells me that the thermometer and the radiator are doing their thing.

The problem is that the transmission is clunky both when in drive and when going into reverse. Like, I hear a faint "clunk" sound. This has NEVER been a problem before and has only started since yesterday, when I installed the new radiator. My thoughts and questions:

1. Could the transmission fluid be TOO COLD as the result of the new radiator?
2. How can I test to see that flow is good between the transmission and the radiator? The brass hose gets very hot to the touch, but maybe that's not evidence enough that there's actual fluid in there?
3. The brass fitting on the radiator that connects to the tranny had a white piece of plastic with a clip on either side that holds it into the line, and it also had a black piece of plastic that fits on top of the white piece. During the install, I lost the black piece and am just using the white piece with the clip on either side. I see ZERO leakage, so I would think there's no problem. Does that sound right to you?
4. Any other ideas?

The transmission has been a great performer and the fluid is nice and clean, so Id' hate it if my negligence right now sent it to an early death. Thank you!

 

Lose any trans fluid during the install?

 

X2

 

My horn recently stopped working and my airbag light is on. Some research led to the clock spring possibly being the problem.

I'm going to pull the wheel off and check connections, but I may have to replace it. Any ideas? Or advice?

 

Sounds like clockspring. pretty easy to do, there are some great youtube videos. Just don't forget to get a steering wheel puller.

 

I have a 1990 jeep Cherokee it's been having problems. When I start up the engine after it hasn't been ran for a few hours, it cranks for a while before it finally starts. It runs extremely rough and sputters. If you drive it that way it backfires and has an extreme loss of power. Also bad fuel mileage. Also has an extremely low idle. I'm not kidding it is probably 200rpms I have to put my foot on the gas just to keep it running. After the engine heats up it finally smooths out slowly.

Things I've done to fix it:
Spark plugs/wires
Distributor cap/ rotor
Cleaned throttle body
Replaced iac sensor
Checked map sensor
Checked tps sensor
Checked fuel pump and fuel lines (fuel pressure read 39psi)

I just need help fixing the problem

 

I had a similar no start problem, just not as extreme with the very low idle. I would have to prime the fuel pump 6-7 times just to get a rough start. Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator? That's where my issue was. If you are loosing pressure at the rail immediately upon shutdown its most likely the regulator. If pressure bleeds off slowly it could be a bad injector. The bad injector would also help explain rough/low idle and poor mileage.

 

This here might help.

 

Begin by doing Tips 1,3,4, and 5 at www.cruiser54.com.

 

Nothing..

 

You through yourself under the bus!!

I hadn't clicked your link............LOL.

 

What? Dunno why you changed the text in my quote bubble..