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T-case drop VS SYE for 4" lift?

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Old 06-26-2012, 01:54 PM
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Default T-case drop VS SYE for 4" lift?

Will a Tcase drop solve minor driveline vibes for a 4" XJ lift? Have so many other things to do just don't have the money to spend on a SYE or hack n tap right now. Wondering if I just get an 1" T-case drop if it would help at all? thanks
Old 06-26-2012, 01:55 PM
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Im at 4.5 with nothing at all and honestly have zero vibes. I may do a drop just to take the stress off the case. I do have shims though
Old 06-26-2012, 01:57 PM
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I have 3 degree shims alos and still vibes , Not terrible. but my rear axle is tilted back enough to leak from the crappy rubber seal...
Old 06-26-2012, 01:59 PM
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88 != 01 for starters. Different X-fer case design.

T-Case drop is a bandaid/crutch. Use it to TEMPORARILY resolve vibe issues, not as a permanent solution. If you truly can't afford the SYE right now (but actually do intend to purchase one), a T-Case drop is a mildly acceptable solution to buy time...but its comparable to driving on a spare tire: Do it when you have to, not all the time.

...and a little schooling on "proper" geometry:

http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html
Old 06-26-2012, 02:06 PM
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T-Case drop is a bandaid/crutch.
I respect your input, but still confused by it shouldn't be used as permanent. I do intend to go another route , but in all honestly if I do a drop and it is working good, it would be hard to spend the money /time on the SYE. Is it still stressing the joints with the drop? thanks
Old 06-26-2012, 02:09 PM
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The drop reduces stress but takes ground clearance away. Honestly if I were you id invest in a rustys crossmember. It has a built in 1 inch drop and you lose no clearance...use it till you have the $ and time for an sye.
Old 06-26-2012, 02:15 PM
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http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-...er-1-drop.html

I like that, might have to go that route. My other fear is every other bolt has broke on my Snow bird Jeep, afraid to snap the heads off the tcase bolts...
Old 06-26-2012, 02:17 PM
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Yeah why lift your vehicle for more clearance only to drop the part the lowest part of your drive line. For real poke your head under your XJ now do you really want to have yout T-case another inch lower. especially being in the center you where you will rub the most on hill climbs. If you do the drop I would go with the rusty's xmember drop also. You could pay 250 for a nice belly skid though.
Old 06-26-2012, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by FleXJ01
http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-...er-1-drop.html

I like that, might have to go that route. My other fear is every other bolt has broke on my Snow bird Jeep, afraid to snap the heads off the tcase bolts...
Always soak in Blaster. If you can always try and tighten the bolt a lil prior to removal just to break up some gunk. Blast some more. And then remove. If you have done all that and it breaks then there is nothing more you could have done. Time to get good at extracting.
Old 06-26-2012, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by XJ Stryker
Always soak in Blaster. If you can always try and tighten the bolt a lil prior to removal just to break up some gunk. Blast some more. And then remove. If you have done all that and it breaks then there is nothing more you could have done. Time to get good at extracting.
cringe
Old 06-26-2012, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by crbnfibr
cringe

I know right extracting SUCKS
Old 06-26-2012, 02:23 PM
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most of mine are rounded and need to be replaced...
Old 06-26-2012, 02:24 PM
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what you should say is get good at drilling and tapping...
Old 06-26-2012, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by crbnfibr
what you should say is get good at drilling and tapping...
Granted that is better. I don't have a tap set so I drill and extract. If all else fails I make a new hole with self tappers. But you can't do that on every application ofcourse.
Old 06-26-2012, 03:44 PM
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Don't underestimate the power of heat! If you are scared you are going to break the bolts/heads, apply liberal heat prior to your effort. It works more often than not.
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